Info/concerns about Lite Deck/concrete roofs
Last Post 16 Oct 2009 06:45 AM by insuldeckflorida. 14 Replies.
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CeeElGeeDIYUser is Offline
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31 Mar 2009 02:54 PM
Well,  the journey continues in trying to get our ICF home project off the ground. Originally we wanted total ICF from foundation to roof, and our architect came back with a Lite Deck system that involves a 5/12 pitch on the back of the home (one story) and 3/12 on the front with a line of clerestory windows between the two peaks.

Now it seems we are having some reservations about the Lite Deck, partly because of the inexperince our ICF contractor and his concrete man have with Lite-Deck, and partly because of a few other factors, including its R-value here in north central Indiana (was designed to be an 8" Lite Deck with 2" cap). Not to mention the cost of shoring the deck and it taking up the entire project for a month or more.

Is anyone else using Lite Deck in cold cimates and is it as energy efficient as, say, a super-insulated truss system or some other type of system like the Metwood DeckSpan, which was just presented to us Sunday as an alternative to the Lite Deck? Any help would be appreciated.


medelpadconstUser is Offline
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31 Mar 2009 07:27 PM
 Our company has used Lite Deck here in Michigan and found it  worked great for our application. WE used it to span a 24' garage floor over a basement area. This was poured with a 4" cap along with the rebar schedule in the slots for the beam parts of the floor. As far as using it for your roof system. Unless you are concerned with being in a tornado or other event, another type of system would be more cost effective for you. Something like SIPS, a TJI system, or other joist like products on the market available in your area would work just as well. This was 2- 1/2/ years ago and the SF cost was around 8.50 per SF. I assume that would be more now. The other factor is what is your roof covering going to be for the concrete top? Most waterproofing systems for concrete are quite costly depending on what is applied.


ICFconstructionUser is Offline
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31 Mar 2009 10:01 PM
I use Lite-deck on most of the homes I build here in MN. Usually it is just 6" for a safe room under the stoop. But it insulates great.
As for water proofing a roof, I would pour the structural concrete of the Lite-deck, put down EPDM membrane than a 2" topping of concrete and seal it. Your rubber membrane should last forever not being exposed to sunlight.


Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
CeeElGeeDIYUser is Offline
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01 Apr 2009 08:50 AM
I've seen that technique discussed on this forum before (possibly by you ;-)) and it sounds great, but that seems to just add another layer of expertise I'm not sure this concrete contractor possesses. I'm hoping either he or our Poly Steel contractor can be more reassuring about the Lite Deck.


jablootyUser is Offline
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01 Apr 2009 11:29 AM
I would be happy to assist you with any questions or concerns you may have. We currently are supporting a number of different jobs that are using Lite-Deck and would invite you or your builder to give us a phone call. We offer shoring techniques, post-tension information, and waterproofing. We would like to see you be fully supported through your building process.
Call me with any concerns.
Thanks,
David Hall
1-800-551-3313


Please contact me regarding information on Lite-Form ICF systems including, Lite-Form, Fold-Form, Lite-Deck or Lite-Deck Tilt.
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01 Apr 2009 12:29 PM
Also if the engineer does a complete job there is less decisions for the contractor to make.


Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
markrossUser is Offline
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01 Apr 2009 07:35 PM
This is the best way we have found to do a true ICF roof, without shoring.



Attachment: Interga Roof2.jpg
Attachment: Interga Roof.jpg

Mark Ross

"Le Canuck"
ManfredUser is Offline
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02 Apr 2009 07:05 AM
I don't know why you go with a concrete roof. Security? High winds etc.? energy efficiency? I suggest you follow up with the above posters if you definetively need to have a lite-deck roof. There are alternatives however. Stick build your roof in the traditional way and use polyurethane sprayfoam to insulate right in between the rafters. THis technique will also stiffen the roof construction and help with shear exposure. Just another way you can skin this cat.


Manfred Knobel
Moss Pointe Builders, Inc.
CeeElGeeDIYUser is Offline
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02 Apr 2009 02:45 PM
Thanks for all the input, including yours, Manfred. I will tell you that I have made the same suggestion to the Mrs. before but she has concerns about the poly sprayfoam (out-gassing, etc.). I don't know. It may still come to that, using some type of engineered wood or metal rafter trusses. Initially the idea was to use the best, strongest building components that would compliment the ICF walls AND provide maximum protection from Mother Nature, but now it seems we've decided we need to be concerned with a super-insulated roof to hold in as much energy as possible. Mark, I've seen you post these photos on the other thread and it looks good, but could that be poured into a 3/12 pitch?


markrossUser is Offline
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02 Apr 2009 04:07 PM
Posted By CeeElGeeDIY on 04/02/2009 2:45 PM
Thanks for all the input, including yours, Manfred. I will tell you that I have made the same suggestion to the Mrs. before but she has concerns about the poly sprayfoam (out-gassing, etc.). I don't know. It may still come to that, using some type of engineered wood or metal rafter trusses. Initially the idea was to use the best, strongest building components that would compliment the ICF walls AND provide maximum protection from Mother Nature, but now it seems we've decided we need to be concerned with a super-insulated roof to hold in as much energy as possible. Mark, I've seen you post these photos on the other thread and it looks good, but could that be poured into a 3/12 pitch?

yes it can, however requires a very specific concrete mix.

Mark Ross


Mark Ross

"Le Canuck"
TavameUser is Offline
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07 Apr 2009 01:11 PM
If the Mrs. is afraid of off gassing, check out Air-Krete at http://www.airkrete.com/
It is a spray insulation, but it's a cementitious material (Magnesium Oxide), won't burn, rot, outgass, etc. etc. I'm unlucky that there are no installers close to my area, but I'm still holding out to use it in my house as soon as someone around here gets qualified to install it.


greenbuildUser is Offline
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05 Oct 2009 12:49 PM
Nice house Ross; roof looks great!


icfcontractorUser is Offline
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08 Oct 2009 05:09 PM
Mark,

This is a great example that concrete construction is only limited by your imagination.

ICF Contractor


ICFengrUser is Offline
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16 Oct 2009 01:00 AM
Hello. You really need to ask your engineer to design the concrete roof for you. It is not a matter of a constructor's experience, but an engineer's design instead.

We constantly design and supervise the construction of concrete roofs and floors with Insulated Decking (like Quad-Deck from Quad-Lock, or from Insul Deck) or just regular removable formwork (with added EPS insulation on the surfaces).

By the way, do not risk concrete pouring of whatever kind of roof without shoring.

The advantages/ disadvantages of concrete roofs over other types of roofs are well documented around the internet.


insuldeckfloridaUser is Offline
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16 Oct 2009 06:45 AM
icfengr
would you please email me?
insuldeckflorida@aol.com


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