Hi.. I'm trying to figure out what my costs might be for a radiant heating system in a small (900 ft2 main floor, plus 900 bonus room space, plus basement. This will be an all ICF house (I think). I might be willing/able to do some of the work myself (I can solder copper, but have not worked with Pex). My budget is tight. And since the house will also be tight, I'm also wondering what the easiest way would be to get fresh air into the house. I'd like to use a small boiler, and then as soon as I can afford, add some solar collectors. I was thinking of doing under-floor radiant with fins rather than emebedding in concrete to save cost. And maybe use a radiator in the basement to save $$ also. Project is in Wisconsin. Any help appreciated! -michael

TRY LIFEBREATH SYSTEM... COST ABOUT 1200.00 INSTALLED. BUT REALLY I HAVE BUILT TWO ICF'S INCLUDING MY OWN HOME I LIVE IN NOW. THEIR NOT THAT TIGHT. WINDOWS AND SUCH MOVE MORE AIR THAN YOU THINK. I REMOVED MY LIFEBREATH SYSTEM AND INSTALLED A GROUND SOURCE HEAT PUMP.. RETURN ON THE DOLLAR SPENT EACH MONTH IS ABOUT 400% WILLING TO SELL MY LIFEBREATH SYSTEM FOR 500.00 BUCKS AND I'LL PAY THE SHIPPING.

REGARDS TO THE COPPER... DONT WAIST YOUR TIME.. THE COST OF COPPER IS GOING UP EVERY DAY..
PEX IS GREAT.. NO FRICTION LOSS FOR JOINTS, ALMOST UNDESTRUCTABLE, YOU CAN PURCHASE AT ANY LUMBER YARD AND ITS VERY HANDS ON FRIENDLY.. MY PLUMBER INSTALLED FOR THE SAME PRICE OF COPPER BECAUSE ITS FASTER TO PUT IN AND HE SAVED THE MAN HOURS FOR LESS INSTALL TIME. YOUR ALREADY PUTTING IN A RADIANT SYSTEM ITS THE SAME TECHNOLOGY RUN WITH IT... YOU WORRY ME WITH THE RADIANT SYSTEM WITH FINS.... DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT IT.. I WISHED I WOULD HAVE INSTALLED THE IN CONCRETE RADIANT SYSTEM WHEN I BUILT OUR HOME.. REMEMBER IT WILL HEAT THE FLOOR AND ALL CARPET AND FURNISHINGS WILL ABSORB THE HEAT AND COOL THROUGH THE FLOOR .. CONSTANT TEMPERATURE THROUGHT THE HOME.. SEALED IN THE CONCRETE I THINK THIS IS THE WAY TO GO.. CHECK WITH LOCAL VENDORS IN YOUR AREA.. ICF MAGAZINES WILL HELP WITH CONTACTS IN YOUR REGION... AND REMEMBER BUILDING YOUR HOME IS THE BEST FIGHT YOUR EVER GONNA HAVE WITH YOUR WIFE....MAKE UP TIME.....LOTS A LUCK.

Sounds like a 2,400 square foot house.
this is probably a good candidate for a modulating condensing boiler, assuming propane or natural gas fuel.
with that in mind fuel efficiency comes to play. think low temperature water in floor heat 100degrees or so.
that rules out the staple up with fines and the basement radiator.
Boiler and design is now about 1 temperature for heat.
So pipe in the basement slab, easy, cost effective DYI.
Next the platforms, we offer a top surface solution, RHT floor panel system, this is similar to other systems. again a DYI type product and does not involve concrete, can be applied room by room based on time as a one man job if needed.
Staple ups are a popular choice as well, you may need heat transfer plates depending on location and heat loads.
Last the o'l topping pour, this is the surface mount with 1 1/2 light weight concrete or Jype crete. You will need to double plate any framing to accommodate the 1 1/2 topping. Not DYI friendly unless you have concrete time, but attaching pipe to the plat form is easy DYI.
The Boiler room.
You will need a gas technician at some point. We provide pre assembled mechanical systems, but if you know how to sweat copper this also is not difficult to follow a mec. plan. you will need some copper, cant all be done with plastic and look straight and proper. You want the work to be presentable, uni strut, clamps holding your copper and related accesories in an orderly fashion to the wall, copper feed to the domestic water if there, your future solar then can pre heat the domestic tank. Pex is fine for supply return lines to the manifolds, but not the primary loop, and between pumps or motorizes zone valves.
We can provide a material quote based on blueprints.
Dan

Thanks for the replies, folks..

My plans are beginning to take shape. Looks like a two-story, with 480 ft2 on each floor, plus living space in the basement, w/ possible future expansion into bonus space above garage. The house is all ICF, in state of WI. I did some cyphering on an online calculator and I come up with worst case heat loss of just under 10,000 btu's per hour (hope I did it right).

So I'm still wondering what the best way to heat will be, hopefully using some radiant in-floor or under-floor heat, if I can keep it simple.

And what kind of fresh air system would be required if I go with radiant? Can a small ERV or HRV be used if there isn't a forced air duct system?

Thanks!
-m

ERVs and HRVs can certainly be used for IAQ in tight homes without heating or cooling air systems. I think Jaf is totally off base in saying tight homes don't need air quality systems and in fact, 30 years of tight building experience says he's wrong. Moisture is a big deal, pollutants are a big deal, and opening a window does not ensure air quality... at least, not at the level you will keep them open in the winter unless you want to spend an endless amount of money on heating.

It is absolutely true and often missed fact that an HRV is mandatory in ICF, SIP and other "super tight" or super insulated homes. All too often, I get the call complaining about dripping windows after the house is finished. This is sadly a little too late to install a proper heat recovery ventilator (really should be called Human Breathing Apparatus).

After all, oxygen has to come before comfort or fuel economy for that matter.

In Canada it is law.

So if I need an HRV, do I need a duct system? How complex does the vent or duct system have to be? Can I get by with just an inlet and outlet per floor? or does every room have to have vents? etc......

Thanks!

-m

Like so many DIY projects (most) design should be left to the professionals. Installation can be done by the homeowner, all else is a waste of time and money.

Multiple exhaust and fresh air ducts are required.

single inlet/outlets are not good ideas unless you have open floorplans or two rooms. door undercuts are important too.

Hi again.. Actually, my plan for the 1st floor IS one big room (kitchen-dining-living) plus 1/2 bath, and upstairs is two bedrooms and a bath. So maybe a very simple HRV duct system would work..?

Thanks,

-m

simple HRV lay out is
bad air out ; bath 1, bath 2, laundry 3 Kitchen 4
Fresh air in ; Bed room 1, bed room 2, living room 3, hallway or bed room 4.
This is done with 6 inch flex duct reduced to 4 inch in and out. attempt to balance supply and returns.
This is the simple lay out, and will create air movement in the house. Generally the system is on 24/7 or they can be connected to a dehumidistat and ramp up and down related to indoor air humidity..More out lets can be added on the larger HRV's or they can be integrated with your forced air system on the return air side of the system.
My hands on experience with these is limited to a handful of installs, I am sure others will know more.
Dan

don't forget the basement.