We're planning a 36x75 post-frame home that will be clear-span.  The outer shell will go up before the slab is poured, and the interior walls will be built once the concrete is cured, leveled and stained.

I'm worried about the interior wall attachment to the floor possibly damaging the tubing in the floor.  Does anyone have any tips for avoiding problems? 

I'm thinking that I need to lay out the walls using string after the insulation and mesh is down, then draw out the spots where a tube has to run under a wall.  Once the slab is cured, I recreate my layout on the slab, marking where the carpenters can't drive fasteners that might hit a tube.

Of course I'm assuming that we'll need to power-nail the bottom plates to the slab.  Is that necessary, or are today's adhesives good enough to just glue the bottom of the walls down?

Rick

Standard with my company starts with the pipe lay out, all on paper first. so your home will be about 2,600 sq ft, perhaps 2 zones. Once the foam down all walls are spray painted on to the foam, doors openings for closets, manifold locations. Just as your blueprint reflects. Basic rule for us is stay 6 inches away from all walls, enter through doors, when you have to breach a wall mark it on your blue print. You now know your able to fasten walls with out worying about the pipe. As a added precaution try to keep pins/fasteners that hold the wall to less than 2 inches deep.
Good luck,
Dan

I had similar concerns upon construction of a similar design. I was also the owner/builder. If your slab is going to be the standard 4" thick, then you have nothing to worry about, as your tubes are fastened to the insulation and thus you have close to 3 1/2" of material over the top of the tube. No matter how much time you put into layout, you'll always run into the desire to change your mind, or remodel. If you're design is not slab on grade, and your concrete is shallow, then I believe you lay your sole plates down before the pour but you can be meticuluous with your layout and take lots of pictures prior to the pour to be sure. The main function of fastening the treated sole plate to slab is to provide lateral stability and this can be done with several methods that do not require deep penetration into the slab. Good luck. During my homebuilding process, I many times expressed to my wife that "ignorance is stressful". But persevere and keep doing what you're doing in seeking advice from these forums.

I had specified that the slab be pumped in order to minimize any disturbance to the Pex. They showed up with out a pump and scrambled the Pex somewhat. I pumped hot water through the radiant lines and used an inferred camera to locate the radiant lines. As I ha bearing walls that needed to be bolted not nailed. Worked fine Pulled the layout for the walls took the photo and could see the radiant tubing as it related to the walls.