lola30
 New Member
 Posts:2
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| 27 Nov 2012 03:39 PM |
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Bought our home in January of 2012. older home with a oil fired radiant floor heat. was working great until february. woke up one morning to a soaking wet floor near a built-on bathroom off the master bedroom. this bathroom was built about six inches up from the main floor (it is a ranch style home, built on concrete slab). the plumbing for this bathroom was built to run up through the wall and overhead. when inspecting the shower plumbing we found water coming up out of the concrete. burst copper pipe from radiant floor heat. three plumbers came in and said there was nothing that could be done, the system was too old and even if they could fix that pipe, there's nothing to say it's not going to leak somewhere else in one week, one month, one year, whatever. they also said they could not flush the pipes to shut them down, that the existing water in them would eventually leak out anyway (i was concerned about the pipes freezing with sitting water and expanding and ruining the floor). so long story short, the radiant floor heat is kaput but my problem NOW is could that defunct system be causing mold?? i'm concerned that it could be coming up into the walls or elsewhere? i noticed a funny musty smell when we initially moved in but i attributed that to the woman that lived there before us (she was advanced in age). what would need to be done with this system if it IS causing a mold problem? would any of it be covered under homeowners? and since we ALSO seem to have a problem with rusty water (GRRRRRR) does this mean that all of the water piping in the concrete is also going to need to be dug up and replaced?? i'm at my wits end!!!! please help! i don't even know where to begin and my husband thinks i'm making a big deal out of nothing!! |
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jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
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| 27 Nov 2012 03:52 PM |
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They can use air to blow out almost all of the water. |
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BadgerBoilerMN
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2010
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| 28 Nov 2012 09:27 PM |
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Homeowners insurance. |
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| MA<br>www.badgerboilerservice.com |
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MikeSolar
 Basic Member
 Posts:376
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| 30 Nov 2012 06:59 AM |
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Having worked on a number of old 1950s copper radiant systems, I can tell you that there is no way to know for sure what the state of the rest of the tubing is. The leak can be found with the help of a thermal camera and often fixed but concrete and copper don't mix that well (long term) so it may last another 10-15 years or it may leak again somewhere else in 6 months. Most people who have lived with radiant would not go to a forced air system so if you really want to keep a radiant system, it is time to either take up the existing floors or.......my choice would be to put new tubing down on the existing floor, put 1.5" of gypsum cement and new flooring on top. Lose a couple of inches of ceiling height but you are guaranteed to have a more efficient system. You then have the opportunity to upgrade to a heat pump and save a lot of money on the heating bills. Badger is right....if the insurance will take care of most of it, you could come out ahead. |
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| www.BossSolar.com |
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BadgerBoilerMN
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2010
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| 01 Dec 2012 08:54 AM |
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Mike is right. But if you are going to lose an 1 1/2" of room height, you may consider a radiant ceiling as they have higher potential output at lower design water temperatures, which would also make them more efficient with a heat pump (I like condensing boilers or water heaters if gas is available). |
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| MA<br>www.badgerboilerservice.com |
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jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
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| 01 Dec 2012 09:15 AM |
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Or use radiant walls for the highest output per sq foot (because of convection). They can also balance the uneven (ie, uncomfortable) radiant temperature caused by an area of large windows. |
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BadgerBoilerMN
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2010
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| 01 Dec 2012 10:15 AM |
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Nice, but seldom practical. |
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| MA<br>www.badgerboilerservice.com |
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MikeSolar
 Basic Member
 Posts:376
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| 02 Dec 2012 08:14 PM |
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The floor is the best route because, unlike a new home, there is probable no insulation under the slab and although we know that a radiant ceiling will heat up the floor SOMEWHAT....it won't be as comfortable. It needs the direct heat to make it work, unless the big rabbit furry slippers are glued to the feet. |
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| www.BossSolar.com |
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jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
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| 02 Dec 2012 11:28 PM |
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A floor solution probably requires more like 3.5" once you include good insulation and maybe 1/2 of that with insulation but without radiant floor heat.
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BadgerBoilerMN
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2010
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| 03 Dec 2012 12:37 PM |
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First a heat load. Radiant ceilings make a home very nearly as comfortable as radiant floors and more comfortable than any other heat source. A radiant ceiling will also be easier to install and insulate than most retrofit radiant heating installations. First, a proper heat load and design. In our installations and the work we often do on radiant ceiling heated homes built in the 1940 we find floor and ceilings at temperatures slightly higher than ambient. This is common of all truly radiant panel systems. We have designed new homes and renovated old with radiant ceiling system...no complaints and no slippers -glued or otherwise. |
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| MA<br>www.badgerboilerservice.com |
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lola30
 New Member
 Posts:2
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| 05 Dec 2012 10:24 AM |
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thanks for all of your replies so quickly!! never considered to go over the existing floor but now thinking it may be a viable option! |
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ACES-Energy
 New Member
 Posts:67
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| 28 Dec 2012 10:18 AM |
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We had gone over both existing floors a couple basements and recently a large garage all for different reasons and with different products. Do your research and you will be happy. |
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| www.ACES-Energy.com |
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