Posted By Todd6286 on 09/20/2008 1:47 PM
I got my unit price quote along with heat load calc and I need to decide if this installer is on the mark.
The Facts:
- 3500 sq foot ICF colonial in Cleveland Ohio (internal sq foot - measured from the out dimension it is closer to 4000 sq foot)
- 10 degrees of of due north south with window mass concentrated on the south
- probably R 40 cellulose blown into attic - few or no cans in the top ceiling.
- the installer has done geothermal before but never in ICF
-heat load calc is 51,151 BTU/hr - cooling load calc is 36,775 BTU/hr
- unit is a Climate Master tranquility 27 (064 model) with desupersaturator and vertical loops
- he sized it as 3.3 tons (064 model)
My questions:
1. is 3.3 tons about right? Should this read 3.5 tons? If so, 1,000 SF per ton is in the hunt I would say for ICF. I used open cell foam on mine with 2x6 walls and it was 940 SF per ton and is working great. From talking to the HERS rater for my home, it was comparable to ICF construction from a thermal envelope perspective.
2. The average efficiency is listed as 3.81 COP - my other quote is going to be from another installer (Water Furnace envision COP listed as 5.0) - should I go with higher COP instead? Heating is a big deal in Cleveland so I would say yes unless there is something squirley with the Water Furnace COP.
3. His quote lists "Air changes/hour as 0.40 in heat mode and 0.20 in cooling" - I have seen on this site that ICF is closer to 0.1 air changes per hour - but then on the web I have seen it listed as 0.5 Air changes per hour at 50 paschals with a blower test. Is my installer using too high a level of air changes for his calc or is "air change per hour" and "air change per hour at 50 paschals" different units? I think the minimum recommended air changes before you should add supplemental ventilation is .5 changes per hour. Mine was .1 and I installed an Energy Recover Ventilator to make sure the indoor air quality was not compromised.
4. Do I need a preheat tank? The quote lists an "80 gallon std electric water heater - 450$) - Why an electric water heater? I thought electric was inefficient? A desuperheater won't heat water all the time, only when the unit is running which is why you would need something to help out with the hot water. If, for example, the geothermal can only provide 100 degree water, you will need something to get it up to 120. For my Earthlnked system, I installed a tank to store the geothermal hot water and topped it off with a gas tankless unit. I wasn't interested in burning electricity to keep a hot water tank at 120, I just wanted it available when I turned on the tap. A temperature rise of 20 degrees, though, is not a lot of work for a tank type unit so the cost impact would be minimal I would think if you stick with just a tank.
5. Is there one COP for a unit since the COP varies with conditions? Is there a std set of conditions that all units can be compared at to compare apples to apples? I could get called down on this one by the engineers monitering this site but I think there is a tested COP and an installed COP and rarely the twain shall meet, if you know what I mean.
Thanks so much in advance for your help. Did you look at Earthlinked for your geothermal? It is a very well engineered piece of equipment and, if you haven't made up your mind yet, I would recommend talking to Mike Dilling about giving you a quote. He installs in your area and you can reach him at 574-269-2603.
Todd