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Not Thrilled With Earthlinked Either
Last Post 14 Mar 2011 10:23 AM by TechGromit. 42 Replies.
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geome
 Advanced Member
 Posts:987
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| 06 Mar 2010 09:46 AM |
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tinoue, don't leave us hanging, what happened with your system? |
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| Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon. |
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tinoue
 New Member
 Posts:96
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| 06 Mar 2010 10:02 AM |
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Posted By geome on 06 Mar 2010 09:46 AM
tinoue, don't leave us hanging, what happened with your system?
I'll give you the bullet points...
- I fixed the backfill of the loops, in January, with pointers from Earthlinked techs. Originally, the backfill was done incorrectly and the loops were hanging in air!
- I can't do anything about loop spacing (6' or less, straight vertical) :-( so the ground freezes prematurely with anything more than about 30%-50% runtimes.
- Fortunately, my home has multiple systems, so I'm able to heat efficiently through the winters.
My home currently has several systems.
Earthlinked, 4-ton unit - primary heat for main floor of house
Fujitsu 12RLS mini-split heat pump - partial heat for basement space and main floor great room
Monitor Products FCX condensing boiler - backup heat for whole house. Primary heat for radiant zones in two baths. Primary heat for basement bedroom areas.
The combination of these systems gives me 10 zones (!) and allows the Earthlinked to run usually 6-8 hours/day, maintaining an 18-20 degree temp rise on supply air. The mini-splits, which have an HSPF of 12 and a SEER of 25 in my zone, are amazing and have allowed me to almost totally stop using oil. The oil is just used for the areas not served by the other systems and our radiant zones. I'll have to write a user's manual for the house if I ever sell it.
If I were to do it again, I'd still go with the Earthlinked if I could find a good installer in the area. But I would have a written contract that laid out the specifics of installation - at least 12' between loops; 200' of loop per ton of capacity.
For my soil conditions, that would give me the thermal capacity to handle the full heat load through the winter, with minimal backup. I'd still need the mini-splits for air conditioning because there's no way to balance the cooling capacity of the house with a geo system. Even a two stage system would have several times the cooling capacity needed for our summers which are high humidity but only 75-85F most of the time. |
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183eej
 Basic Member
 Posts:127
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| 06 Mar 2010 11:03 AM |
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Something being tested in Texas is a commissioned installation based on actual system performance rather than a prescriptive approach such as Energy Star or LEED. Just because the AHRI label says 16 SEER, doesn't mean it performs at that level after it is installed.
An independent system performance verification before release of final payment to the installer, I think, would go a long way towards ensuring customers get what they contracted for. Money is the language of business and, at the end of the day, that is what the installer really wants more than anything else. |
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| Dale Walker<br>EarthTap<br>www.earthtapenergy.com<br>Where the sun never sets on energy savings<br> |
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tinoue
 New Member
 Posts:96
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| 06 Mar 2010 02:58 PM |
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Posted By 183eej on 06 Mar 2010 11:03 AM
Something being tested in Texas is a commissioned installation based on actual system performance rather than a prescriptive approach such as Energy Star or LEED. Just because the AHRI label says 16 SEER, doesn't mean it performs at that level after it is installed.
An independent system performance verification before release of final payment to the installer, I think, would go a long way towards ensuring customers get what they contracted for. Money is the language of business and, at the end of the day, that is what the installer really wants more than anything else.
That's a great idea!
One practical question - what timeframe would the commissioning be done over? For example, if you just had it tested once, shortly after installation, you wouldn't notice the problems that occur a month into the season when the ground is frozen and your BTUs have dropped.
Even worse, there are issues that may not occur for several years if you have an imbalance between cooling/heating season. This is more of an issue with big (industrial scale) systems, but it has been known in residential situations as well.
Overall though, it sounds like an excellent starting point. |
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183eej
 Basic Member
 Posts:127
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| 07 Mar 2010 07:46 AM |
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Commissioning would be the final step of the installation before the last payment is made by the customer.
I wouldn't expect the things you mentioned to be a surprise a year or so down the road though. Proper sizing of the equipment in accordance with ASHRAE's Manual J should avoid discovering years later that the the ground was freezing or over saturated with heat, which is the primary concern in Texas where I live.
We use Elite, which has a very good Manual J software tool called RHVAC to help accumulate all the features in a home that impacts the heating and cooling load in accordance with Manual J. All these features are very well documented by the application either by manually inputing the features such as orientation of the home, room sizes, insulation type and R-values, etc. or using Elite's drawing board tool and selecting all the features with a mouse. And it takes all this information and puts it in context of the home's physical location.
Mechanical engineers, specializing in geothermal in this area, use Elite's commercial cousin called CHVAC to compile the same story for commercial installs. RHVAC and CHVAC both links with Elite's Energy Audit tool that is used to compare the financial performance of several systems factoring in tax credits, fuel prices, energy inflation assumptions, etc.
We used it to compare the projected performance of my Earthlinked system to a ClimateMaster system, an American Standard heat pump and a 13 SEER AC with a natural gas furnace. It was very helpful and hA proven to be uncannilly accurate. It projected my Earthlinked system would cost about $56/month to operate at 12 cents per kwh for electricity. It's averaging $63/month and I am paying 14 centS per kwh.
In context of this message thread, however, it was only uncannily accurate because the installer that I used followed Earthlinked's recommended installation procedure and I had the system performance verified by an independent commissioning agent before I wrote the final check. |
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| Dale Walker<br>EarthTap<br>www.earthtapenergy.com<br>Where the sun never sets on energy savings<br> |
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 07 Mar 2010 08:13 AM |
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I can vouch for RHVAC |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 07 Mar 2010 10:17 AM |
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OK, according to the other half we heated 3800 SF somewhere (Don't know location) for about $275.00 in electricity. Don't know if that included other household consumption. Don't know the heat loss. Do know it's 7 tons. A guy in Texas might have a $50 heating bill but someone in the midwest A'int gonna. Might not be high, but we still have not been given enough information to know. Would the OP like to dig up the heat loss and volunteer closest major city? Also we need to know if the $275 included the rest of the house's electrical use. I suggest we dig up these things before we dig up ground loops or chase wiring around. j |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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Looby
 Basic Member
 Posts:401

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| 07 Mar 2010 10:41 AM |
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Posted By joe.ami on 07 Mar 2010 10:17 AM
... we heated 3800 SF somewhere (Don't know location) for about
$275.00 in electricity. Don't know if that included other household
consumption. Don't know the heat loss. Do know it's 7 tons.
"Give me ambiguity, or give me something else." |
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| One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions. |
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 09 Mar 2010 10:27 AM |
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Posted By 183eej on 06 Mar 2010 11:03 AM
An independent system performance verification before release of final payment to the installer, I think, would go a long way towards ensuring customers get what they contracted for. Ummm.....no thanks. For those who don't know it, efficiency is impacted by many things out of the installer's control. I don't care to have my paycheck held-up because someone decided to set the thermostat higher or dial down at night or take 10 showers a day and never change filters........... Who's going to monitor consumer performance to ensure a system's efficiency is is not sabotaged? joe |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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tinoue
 New Member
 Posts:96
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| 09 Mar 2010 10:46 AM |
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Joe has valid concerns. One does not want to penalize the installer for homeowner abuse. So any system needs to allow for varying homeowner behaviors.
System validation, or "commissioning" is a regular practice in industry and is moving into the home market with LEED projects. Consumers currently have nobody looking out for their interests. In addition, even the best contractors occasionally make mistakes, so the commissioning process helps them as well by allowing them to ensure that their systems are performing up to spec.
The process would have to be clearly defined as to what performance specifications will be tested. For example, there might be specifications for duct tightness, system air flow rates, temperature rise/drop, etc. For GSHP systems, this is complicated by the fact that their behavior is expected to vary over time, but too can be written into the spec. For example, one might spec an acceptable range of temperatures after a full winter/summer of use.
The trick is that all of this costs money. If I were to do commissioning of this sort, it would be at least a $300-$500 consulting job, per visit. We'd be looking at one visit on initial startup to get initial operational parameters and perform duct testing and at least one visit after summer or winter, depending upon which puts a heavier load on the system. So at the least, we're probably looking at $750-$1000 for this service. |
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Looby
 Basic Member
 Posts:401

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| 09 Mar 2010 11:00 AM |
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Posted By tinoue on 09 Mar 2010 10:46 AM
We'd be looking at one visit on initial startup to get initial operational parameters and perform duct testing and at least one visit after summer or winter ...
So, the installer doesn't get paid until after a summer, or winter, ...or maybe both? Money ain't free, so who's going to pay to finance the install for 6-12 months? ...you pay for what you get, Looby |
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| One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions. |
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183eej
 Basic Member
 Posts:127
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| 09 Mar 2010 09:24 PM |
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Mine was commissioned immediately after the installer finished and I paid him as soon as I received the report which was within a week. What I liked about this approach was that the commissioning report confirmed that the unit delivered 100% of what I bought from the installer. The BTUs, the EER, watts used...it was all tested and verified before I wrote the final check. Geothermal systems cost a lot of money and its simply prudent business to independently verify performance of something so expensive. A bonus for my installer is that he get's lots of good referrals and I have the electric bills to back it up. |
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| Dale Walker<br>EarthTap<br>www.earthtapenergy.com<br>Where the sun never sets on energy savings<br> |
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kimko
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 31 Mar 2010 11:47 PM |
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I sugest the home owner starts insulating and lowering the infiltration if they want significant bill reductions, even then this is a BIG OLD house that will always have thermal issues. Efficiency tests are easy enough to do since they have aux. heaters, kinda late in the season though |
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John-eli
 New Member
 Posts:1
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| 11 Mar 2011 09:44 AM |
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Hello tinoue, My name is John, and I am researching installation of a geothermal HVAC system for my first home. I have been looking into Earthlinked (or other direct exchange) vs. water-based systems, and on the surface it seems like Earthlinked is a better way to go, except now I'm reading about issues of soil freeze-thaw-freeze cycles around the copper pipes, causing air space around them, and huge drops in efficiency. That's my latest point of concern, but my main concern is to find and chat with someone who has actually gone through the process of installing and using an Earthlinked system in a geological area similar to my own. From your post I'm replying to above, it looks to me like you may have a system set up in a very similar area to mine. I'm in the South-West Boston area, pudding-stone bedrock is very near the surface, and is above the surface in many areas in my neighborhood. The winters rarely go below 0 degrees, but are often in the teens for days at a time, and the summers are very humid, rarely over 100, but often 80-90. So I'd just like to ask you for your overall advice for me, if you'd make an educated guess that either I could use a geothermal system for all our heating and AC needs, and specifically if an Earthlinked system would work, or if you think we'd have to suppliment it with a backup system, or if you could do it again, would you do it differently? Our house is 2500sqft., 3 floors (is it easy to zone for 3 bills?), will have all new windows, all new spray insulation in walls and roof will be put in. any pointers or general help or ideas on this would be greatly appriciated, thanks very much, John-E |
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jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
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| 11 Mar 2011 10:22 AM |
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Geothermal systems cost a lot of money and its simply prudent business to independently verify performance of something so expensive. Certainly - if you can standardize some tests that can be done over a short period (a week?). The usual seems to be "it produces heat and cold, see you later". Why isn't freeze/thaw air space an equal problem with plastic loops? |
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Looby
 Basic Member
 Posts:401

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| 11 Mar 2011 11:14 AM |
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Posted By jonr on 11 Mar 2011 10:22 AM
Why isn't freeze/thaw air space an equal problem with plastic loops?
What's the minimum temperature you'll see in a plastic loop?
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| One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions. |
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Paul Auerbach
 New Member
 Posts:88
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| 12 Mar 2011 01:28 AM |
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Posted By joe.ami on 07 Mar 2010 10:17 AM
OK, according to the other half we heated 3800 SF somewhere (Don't know location) for about $275.00 in electricity. Don't know if that included other household consumption. Don't know the heat loss. Do know it's 7 tons. A guy in Texas might have a $50 heating bill but someone in the midwest A'int gonna. Might not be high, but we still have not been given enough information to know. Would the OP like to dig up the heat loss and volunteer closest major city? Also we need to know if the $275 included the rest of the house's electrical use. I suggest we dig up these things before we dig up ground loops or chase wiring around. j
There's another way to establish if system is performing to specs (meeting projected energy use): - We know electrical usage - 2883. While we DON'T know if it includes household energy use, but from experience with older homes including my own 1908 Queen Anne Colonial - balloon construction, DX Systems - with 3.5 tons down and 3.0 tons up, 2883 is a logical geo only usage for the size/age home.
- We know stated performance of Earthlinked equipment: 3.6 COP
- Based on electrical use data, system(s) generated 35.5 MM BTU's
To generate (and deliver to the heating distribution system) 35 million BTU's using oil @ 3.00/gallon and appliance efficiency of 85% - would cost nearly $900. I think this person has a properly performing system - especially if it also produced the domestic hot water.Good luck, Paul Total Green Geo DX Specialists www.TotalGreenUS.com |
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183eej
 Basic Member
 Posts:127
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| 12 Mar 2011 06:30 AM |
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From talking to Mike Dilling in Indiana, who estimates he has installed about 1,000 of the Earthlinked systems where the ground freezing could be an issue, seems like he indicated the ground freezing was due to not properly matching the size of the system to the heating and cooling needs of the house. That tells me whoever has had issues with ground freezing didn't know that their installer failed to ensure the geothermal system system was sized in accordance with ASHRAE's Manual J.
Having gone through this myself, I don't recommend the installer, who is trying to close a sale, do the Manual J for the homeowner. I would recommend locating someone independent of the installer complete the manual J for the home and pay that same person to commission the system after the install before writing the final check to the installer. This approach doesn't have much drive up appeal to some installers on this site. However, they don't have to live with the system and pay the electric bill either.
As far as a backup system, there is a termperature point where it no longer makes financial sense to buy and install more equipment to keep a home warm. For my house, that point was 13 degrees and my backup heater has kicked on one time since I installed the Earthlinked system in 2007 which confirms for me that my system was sized properly.
My experience with Earthlinked is that it is trouble free, is very comfortable and uses very little electricity. When trying to figure out what to do, I would recommend focusing on the technician, not the technology. The installer is the weakest link in the geothermal industry. Make sure you vet your installer very carefully before signing a contract and protect yourself by spending a little more for someone to independently verify his sizing calculations and his installation before you write that last check. |
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| Dale Walker<br>EarthTap<br>www.earthtapenergy.com<br>Where the sun never sets on energy savings<br> |
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 12 Mar 2011 09:00 AM |
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Posted By John-eli on 11 Mar 2011 09:44 AM Hello tinoue,
1) on the surface it seems like Earthlinked is a better way to go, except now I'm reading about issues of soil freeze-thaw-freeze cycles around the copper pipes, causing air space around them, and huge drops in efficiency.
2) The winters rarely go below 0 degrees, but are often in the teens for days at a time, and the summers are very humid, rarely over 100, but often 80-90.
3) specifically if an Earthlinked system would work, or if you think we'd have to suppliment it with a backup systemthanks very much, John-E John, 1) Earthlinked has superior heat transfer capabilities (to the ground around it). IOWs it removes heat more quickly than earth can convey it. Therefore a properly designed DX system will have designed in downtime (to prevent ground freeze). As we know larger compressors and downtime are contrary to the geo design scheme in water source which is why at the end of the day average COPs are about the same. 2) Weather like this screams for 2 stage system (water source). 3) You have been misled if you think suplemental heat is an indicator of poor performance. We speak quite often of the folly of avoiding aux. use (employing a larger compressor drawing more amps all the time). Price per kwh impacts the decision on where you want the balance point to be, but suggesting you want no auxiliary means you have more homework to do. "Why isn't freeze/thaw air space an equal problem with plastic loops?" Jonr, DX systems have the refrigerant flash or change state in the ground loops which absorbs heat more rapidly than the ground can convey it dropping the temperature quickly. Since most systems are installed with max loop to begin with, the easiest way to mitigate this is to ensure downtime with aux. designed in or upsizing heat pump (for more off cycles). This is by the way why DX "average COP's" are not necessarily better than watersource. Water source may freeze ground as well, but it would be over a long period of time and not a flash freeze followed by a quick thaw (repition of which can result in radial cuts on a DX loop). HDPE is not likely to be damaged by frozen earth as well. Finally with water source, we do not have the burden of refrigerant oil recovery and can make our loops as long as we want avoiding ground freeze altogether though op cost models suggest a lot of extra expense for little savings. "There's another way to establish if system is performing to specs (meeting projected energy use):" Paul, Neat hypothesis, of course if the unit is in FL, well, maybe we still need more info. "1) From talking to Mike Dilling in Indiana, who estimates he has installed about 1,000 of the Earthlinked systems where the ground freezing could be an issue, seems like he indicated the ground freezing was due to not properly matching the size of the system to the heating and cooling needs of the house. That tells me whoever has had issues with ground freezing didn't know that their installer failed to ensure the geothermal system system was sized in accordance with ASHRAE's Manual J 2)Having gone through this myself, I don't recommend the installer, who is trying to close a sale, do the Manual J for the homeowner. I would recommend locating someone independent of the installer complete the manual J for the home and pay that same person to commission the system after the install before writing the final check to the installer. This approach doesn't have much drive up appeal to some installers on this site. However, they don't have to live with the system and pay the electric bill either 3) As far as a backup system, there is a termperature point where it no longer makes financial sense to buy and install more equipment to keep a home warm. For my house, that point was 13 degrees and my backup heater has kicked on one time since I installed the Earthlinked system in 2007 which confirms for me that my system was sized properly 4) My experience with Earthlinked is that it is trouble free, is very comfortable and uses very little electricity. When trying to figure out what to do, I would recommend focusing on the technician, not the technology. The installer is the weakest link in the geothermal industry. 5) Make sure you vet your installer very carefully before signing a contract and protect yourself by spending a little more for someone to independently verify his sizing calculations and his installation before you write that last check." Dale, 1) Mike is a distributor who may have sold 1,000 systems, and all would likely work great if he had installed them. Unfortuanately DX tends to attract newbies as it doesn't require tools not already in the HVAC arsenal. Some of these newbies are still learning design. The Man. J load is only 1/2 the design. Sizing the heat pump from there benefits from experience. 2) I recommend an installer who has good references and guarantees design, do the manual J which one may have indepently verified if you like. Commercial installations routinely have a designer who is not on the hook for performance. We don't mind bidding those, nor do we accept responsibility when the design fails to meet expectations (which is more than occasionally). It is worse in geo as independant designers tend towards 100% load which grossly oversizes some systems. 3) in my neck of the woods, an auxiliary system that only kicked on once in the last 3 or 4 years would be grossly oversized. In the previous couple of winters alone (in mid MI), we've seen negative double digits that don't even show up on the 20 year bin. It might be good design in TX if aux. doesn't come on, but I want to reiterate, that's poor design around here especially with Earthlinked where frozen ground may cause loop failure. 4) I think we all agree installer is the most important component, more so than the brand or type of geo. 5) I would suggest folks verify sizing before they sign contract or write the first check. Last check is due immediately after the final inspection. Folks who arbitrarily revisit design at that point need to check lein laws in their state. Joe |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 14 Mar 2011 09:23 AM |
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Posted By trister on 22 Feb 2010 10:45 AM
Just an update. Does anyone know what the temperature should be coming out of supply vents. I would consider the temperature to be somewhat warm at the best. Additionally, the air volume appears to be weak. It took 2 days to balance air flow for the heating and came back and set up the ac flow.
Actually the heat coming out of the vents should be lukewarm, geothermal is a gradual heating method, if the air is warm or hot, most likely the system is running on AUX electric heat and this is bad. The volume coming out pretty much depends on the blower speed and the number of vents it has to feed, from my own experience, my system really doesn't blow air out of the vent all the hard either. |
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