Climatemaster Geothermal Heat pump/Vision Pro TH8000 problems
Last Post 18 Jul 2010 12:14 PM by geome. 6 Replies.
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jvkUser is Offline
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17 Jul 2010 07:56 AM

I own a Climatemaster TTV64 (5 ton, 2 stage) geothermal heat pump that is controlled by a Honeywell TH8000 series thermostat. The system was installed in 2007 and it has performed almost flawlessly until last Thursday.  I have documented its great performance,  previoiusly on this forum.
 
The professional who installed my geothermal heat pump (2.5 yrs ago) left on vacation last Friday and designated the job to his on call technician. However the technician is too busy and can only come over on Monday afternoon. He has tried to help diagnose the problem over the phone with limited success. It has been very hot in south east PA and I am trying to understand if there is a problem with my thermostat.

Sometime Thursday evening, I noticed that the heat pump had shut down. The fan continued to run and the ambient temperature in the house was 80 F while the set point was at 78 F.

There are new batteries in the thermostat and a relatively new filter in the heat pump.

Thinking that the problem was probably with the thermostat, I reset the thermostat – turned it off and then waited some time and then turned it back to cool. The heat pump came on and started cooling the house.

The next morning (Friday) the heat pump was again off but the fan was running. Temperature in the house was above the set point of 78F.

I called the Installer to tell him know that the heat pump had stopped working again. The installer’s technician asked me to check for errors indicated on the CXM board. The green light was blinking fast (on off on off ) at a constant frequency but there was NO pause between a series of blinks. The technician said that that was not an error code. The heat pump was just waiting for a signal from the thermostat to start cooling. However the temperature was above the set point and the thermostat was indicating that it was asking for cooling.

I again shut down the thermostat and then turned it on. The heat pump (compressor) came on and began to cool. At this point I went to work but later my mother, who is visiting, called to say that the heat pump had shut off.

In the evening the temperature in the house was 85F while the set point was at 78F. As before, the fan was running. The LED on the CXM board was blinking on and off at constant but slower frequency. I removed the batteries from the thermostat, waited for 10 minutes, replaced the batteries and then turned the thermostat to cool. The heat pump came on and ran for about 20 minutes then shut off. Temperature in the house was 83 F and still higher than the set point. But I cannot recall if I had increased the set point. The LED on the CXM was blinking slowly at a constant frequency.

The technician still thought that there was no error code. He asked me to remove the thermostat from the base plate and jump the red ( R) wire to the Yellow ( Y) and Y to the Green (G). When I jumped Y to G the fan came on and jumping from R to Y turned on the compressor. The ECM blower ran at a very low speed. The metal inlet and outlet ports of the water loop were both very cold but the air was not cool as it came off the pump.

At the technician’s suggestion, I then jumped the black wire (Y2) to the Green (G). The blower speed went up significantly and the compressor ran for a shot time and then shut down. This time there was an error code on the board - two short blinks with clicking sounds and a long pause (on off on off pause on off on off pause) and this pattern repeated itself.

Technician now thinks that the water pressure in the loop is low. Why that would be is not clear but he intends to come in on Monday afternoon and if needed recharge the loop.

The heat pump still runs over short periods but turns off, inexplicably.  Sometimes it turns on and then shuts off within a minute.  Everytime it shuts off the LED blinks on and off at a slow constant frequency.

Could the experts on this board please suggest where the problem could be. If the problem is indeed with the heat pump there is not much I can do but wait for the technician to come on Monday afternoon. But it would still be helpful to know the cause for the problem in advance.

Thanks for any input you could provide.

Regards,

VK

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17 Jul 2010 12:55 PM
Check the unit's drain and make SURE it is clear. Don't just check to see if there is water in the drain pan...once the unit shuts off the water might be draining slowly. By the time you notice something's not right and open it up, the water is all gone.

Make sure you turn off all the power BEFORE opening the cabinet up!

Bergy
jvkUser is Offline
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17 Jul 2010 04:08 PM
Bergy,

Thank you for taking the time to read and respond to my query.

I had a hunch that the problem may be related to drainage of the condensate. But was not completely sure.

The technician had asked me to check the external pump that pumps the condensate to the sump. Since it only comes on sporadically, I had to check it by filling it up. Every time I would fill the pump, it would turn on and drain its reservoir and soon after wards (after a time lag) the heat pump would turn on. But for what ever reason I did not think of correlating that observation with poor condensate drainage from with in the heat pump.

There is a large diameter tygon tubing that carries the condensate to the exit in the heat pump and I know that it is filled with water - I can see it.

But since we are talking about water, high voltage and a large charged capacitor, I think I am going to let the technician deal with it on Monday afternoon. For the time being ,we will try to put up with the heat.

Thanks again for your insight. I hope you are right because that is an insignificant issue compared to a leaking closed loop.

Regards,

VK
geomeUser is Offline
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17 Jul 2010 04:24 PM
Would you recommend a condensate pan tablet going forward if this is the problem?  If so, which brand have you had good results with?
Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon.
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17 Jul 2010 11:02 PM
Your heatpump goes into error mode, by default the fan comes on and the compressor is deactivated.

Most likely the condensate drain as indicated before. You can bridge the two large contacts on the CXM board (look in the manual), it will then display the error code by blinking a certain amount of times before pausing for a few seconds and then blinking again.

www.buffalogeothermalheating.com
jvkUser is Offline
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18 Jul 2010 12:05 PM
Bergy, Docjenser,

Thanks again for taking the time. I greatly appreciate your input.

Both of you were right. It was indeed the condensate drain. The Tygon like drain pipe had deposited a lot of algae. It was a microbiologist's wonderland.

Since I did not want to disconnect the water filled pipe from the PVC hose fitting and risk spilling the water any where near the heat pump internals, I used a shop vac connected to the exit to suck out the deposits from the drain pipe. Once I cleared the pipe, the condensate flowed more easily and the heat pump has not given any problem since last night.

I have the pump serviced by the Installer every year and thus I was surprised to see the amount of deposits in the drain pipe. I am going to request for a thorough flushing of the drain pipe during the next service. May even ask about a dilute clorox solution.

Geome:

Thanks for bringing the pan tablets to my attention. I had not heard of them before but learnt about them by searching the internet. I will talk to my installer and see if he has had positive experience with these tablets.

Thanks again to all,

Regards,

VK
geomeUser is Offline
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18 Jul 2010 12:14 PM
Our installer uses Pro-Treat. I also see a product called Slime-Out on the web. The Slime-Out looks to be "less harsh" (my non-technical wording) according to MSDS information. I see that the local HVAC supply only carries the Pro-Treat, so I am unsure if this is why our installer uses it, or if it works better. It would be great if someone familiar with these products could voice their opinion on them or suggest another product.
Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon.
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