Can anyone give me a ballpark figure of what it would cost to have my Geothermal system back-washed? The tech said a couple of hours, so I'm guess between $300 to $400.

dunno, but how do we know it needs back wash? a 25 year old system I removed in heavy (not bacterial) iron country never backwashed- acid flushed- whatever was fine. properly installed downstream valves keep minerals in suspension. drains (ignorant installer used 3/4) looked like elvis's arteries (hope this isn't too soon). coax was fine.

Posted By joe.ami on 20 Sep 2012 12:02 AM
dunno, but how do we know it needs back wash?

I assumed it was part of maintenance, to remove any buildup inside the unit. This is the first time since the system was installed four years ago I'm having this done. I guess I'll see what kind of buildup the backwash removes to see weather or not I can wait longer (or have done sooner) before back-washing it again. I got a price of $637 to replace the value and backwash the system. I know the value runs $170,  so I'm looking at $467 in mostly labor.
 

J- can be right this time but you have a broader Q:

Since the early 80's, before "name brands" when dozens of dealersin OH PA and MI rann into this, we did all at once . But first, if not a rusty mess, remove the power to the well pump, isolate the well tank or open source, unscrew a drain valve usually at a tank T, ans SEE if you have , (wire-scrape, or finger nail) build up in the feed line (or fittings) that are in line to the GT feedwater. Unions at the GT can be proving points. Since BOTH the DeSuperheater or on-demand HW heating feature of GT AND the well-coil HX Flush takes less than one hour it simply costs 168.oo flat, from
 
www.geopros.org

plus travel over 20 mi, 30 min. (reasonable rates to MI OH PA) we keep 1978 machines running well, and COP's of 4.1 since then... generally 95% of the valves can quickly be cleaned simple irritrol valve is only under $20 underground-slow closing sprinkler valve is cleanable and so practical for over a decade. if you are concerned about deposit in the drain-lines AFTER a valve, (( correct: after all concerned systemic piping))

there is not much ado about leaving-flow  valves of 1/2" to 1.1/4" under 11 GPM.
A Belimo water valve in a 5 ft hd (under 2psi) PressDrop GT system hx NON-COAXIAL water coil ---found in the most efficient systems, a belimo stn-steel not only can be cleaned like a ball valve as it is, but the 1/2" regulates 40 psi flows to the system at about 11 GPM anyway WITH AN OEM PLASTIC INSERT for less shock at flow stop and starts.

"slippery" Iron in ferris states will "slip" out into any non-clinging fashion of the system, if present, but looks orange , and stays translucent. CAN YOU GET A KNOWLEDGE---ABLE tech to try first run a simple a freeze-clean? that bothers some companies but is quite viable among the 40+ contractors I trained . since 1980 vinegar has helped very many and a couple gallons may take 30 minutes with a small fountain pump like lil-giant (condensate pump) which lastds me for 20+ flushes and customers in a three year span.

IF YOUR FLOW CONTROLLER IS REFRIGERENT ACTIVATED, by pressure , without a proper OEM by-pass flush port as www.Hydro-Temp.com see GC RED BOARD which installers can add to less tech systems as is fitting. has installed by request, -the flush port, before the flow control all after the HX COIL for the well water.- then you will find switching from heat to cool in recirculation/flushing-back-washing may have to be done that way.

If the internal tech-friendly modes/board is tech accessable , a simple push of "step" buttons allows this fast method.

Our area of MI IA OH KY Wva VA PA to NY , in each villiage or even on the same street, can have radically different wells -open loop- and a 40ft deep can be better than a 260 depth ( ! )

Iron sludge can read only 3ppm on a test, if it is ferric iron of a clear-water nature, which clings, can be worthy of removal twice a year. Ferric leaving just translucent films in as high as 8ppm where that 3ppm ferris irion plugs the well and pump in a couple years, the ferric iron can require no maintenance in a dozen years Any films impare HX efficiency generally, anyways.

CONSULT the warnings and other techs::: POISONS (iron-out) and ACIDS are used by techs in those higher priced cleanups BUT NEVER ALLOW MORE THAN !% MINUTES ABOVE ~ 4.1/2% solution to 5% , if the like of muriatics are used (some 4 and 5 to 1 solution ==== a bare spot of cu can begin suignificantly erroding in that time).

JP GEOPros hands on over 1600+ Comm and res and solar , too.

Hey TG...dunno how "hands-on" you want to be, but this should be a very DIY-able process. I just use a 10 gallon pail, a small submersible pump, two flex hoses hooked up to ports on the "in" and "out" side of my heat pump, and a solution of Nu-Calgon Nickle-Safe Ice Machine cleaner in warm water.

I would be sure to use an inhibited acid.

Posted By jml on 21 Sep 2012 05:43 PM
Hey TG...dunno how "hands-on" you want to be, but this should be a very DIY-able process. I just use a 10 gallon pail, a small submersible pump, two flex hoses hooked up to ports on the "in" and "out" side of my heat pump, and a solution of Nu-Calgon Nickle-Safe Ice Machine cleaner in warm water.

Maybe I'm just slow, but i like to see how its done once. Like my first house, my cousin replaced one of the old windows for me, once I seen how easy it really was, I replaced the other 5 old windows in the house myself. I guess if I had a step by step guild, I'd attempt myself, but until I see it done, I'm a little leery about tackling it alone. 

Thats why they invented "you tube". Just do a search on flushing a tankless water heater and you will not have to wait for your cousin, or pay a tech to perform a mundane task at tech rates.
Eric