Quantum
 Basic Member
 Posts:255
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| 20 Jan 2008 10:04 AM |
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This is for TerryJ, as the PM system in this forum does not work for me. I run Linux and Opera for security reasons, but the forum software does not conform to global standards.
Anyway, about concrete flooring options: I think this is a great idea because concrete is noncombustible, and whenever you can build noncombustibly, you should.
Alot of contractors like Speedfloor, but I think it really sux, for reasons in CarolVentura's thread below.
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TerryJ
 New Member
 Posts:40
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| 21 Jan 2008 03:57 PM |
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Thanks for reply. I'll probably go with Hambro since it is readily available here.
T |
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Quantum
 Basic Member
 Posts:255
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| 21 Jan 2008 08:34 PM |
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Right on.
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TerryJ
 New Member
 Posts:40
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| 21 Jan 2008 09:06 PM |
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Since you keep replying I am going to keep asking questions! LOL
If you remember I am building off-grid, so keeping heat in and minimizing electrical usage is important, especially in the dark months of Nov-Jan where solar contribution will be lowest.
So two more design elements I am considering:
1. Adding 2 in EPS to outside of ICF walls for a total of 4.5 "; although I have am wondering how this will affect my choices of finish substrate - stucco, siding, steel...
2. Roofing choices: I am thinking of SIPS or cathredral rafters/sprayed foam to create an unvented roof assembly, which will be a cathredral ceiling in family/living room and possibly a office/loft area in rest of house.
I am looking for ease of construction, quality of finished product, energy efficiency and cost. Comments?
Thanks in advance. T |
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Quantum
 Basic Member
 Posts:255
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| 22 Jan 2008 12:56 PM |
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I don't like SIP for a number of reasons, not least that they use OSB (flammable, offgasses formaldehyde) and often isocyanurate foam (thermal drift, offgasses heavy-molecule blowing agent). SIP just couldn't be thick enough to make it worth it to me, plus they can not do complex shapes. |
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Jelly
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1017
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| 23 Jan 2008 03:48 AM |
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Just a recommendation - if you want to read about the European "passive house" go to LINK and click the English flag. The translation there is much better than using babelfish in the browser. |
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PatrickT
 Basic Member
 Posts:157
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| 23 Jan 2008 08:43 AM |
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Terryj,
We are planning to add 2" of additional foam to the outside of our ICF. I would like to consider adding 4" instead! With a EFIS type stucco, I don't think we we have much troubles. We are also using Hambro floor systems. Our first delivery should be by mid Feb. We will have a flat concrete roof, again using Hanbro system.
With your plans of maximum insulation, you may want to plan on aggresive window insulated shutters. You can invest alot of money in quality windows but still have 25% of your heat loss at the windows. The concept I'm working with for insulated shutters is a 2" foam laminated panel designed to be duel bi-fold. This should keep the projection in to the room minmal due to the deep ICF wall. I plan to go with fix pannel windows where I can, window seals are weak links.
Where are you building?
Patrick T |
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Quantum
 Basic Member
 Posts:255
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| 23 Jan 2008 11:30 AM |
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Ah, thanks Jelly, the other flags are new.
Terry I am not sure where you are, but EIFS (acrylic -fake- stucco) has a terrible reputation in the US. Although it can be watertight, most EIFS construction here was not executed properly and water-caused structural damage is rife. There have been class-action suits, and it is rather hard to sell an EIFS house as a result. Of course this is WRT stick-built, but nevertheless the public will be confused.
Just for reputation and resale value alone, I would avoid EIFS. Cementitious stucco does not have this problem. EIFS is great for detail, like fake stonework around windows and doors, quoining, etc. Just a suggestion. |
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PatrickT
 Basic Member
 Posts:157
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| 24 Jan 2008 08:16 AM |
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Quantum,
EIFS systems do have a bad rap. Much deserved due to improper install. And yes, over wood frame walls many problems. But over ICF the main reported end result can't happen, wood rot. It makes no difference on your siding selection, proper drainage is required.
Patrick T |
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Tony Wilkey
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 24 Jan 2008 10:44 PM |
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EIFS = Woodpecker damage. Almost every EIFS house i've looked at has woodpecker damage. They love it for some reasson. Google it.
I've heard that EIFS homes of Golf courses can even get golf balls imbedded in them. |
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walltech
 Basic Member
 Posts:390
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| 25 Jan 2008 08:04 AM |
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EIF's for 5 years now no peckers, but daddy long legs luv it!
Dave |
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Quantum
 Basic Member
 Posts:255
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| 25 Jan 2008 10:37 AM |
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Oh man, I didn't intend for this thread to be in the ICF forum. |
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eifs va
 New Member
 Posts:4
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| 26 Jan 2008 12:27 PM |
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EIFS is a great product. Just don't listen to the manufacturers or salesmen and hire a competent professional and you will be ok. I've been in the business for quite some time and guess what? No problems from my end. As a matter of fact, before you blame the contractors or say things like "proper installation" I think it's important to note that the majority of homes or buildings with failing EIFS systems were installed in accordance with manufacturer specifications. That means that the manufacturers didn't do their homework when they specified EIFS for wood framed/sheathed construction. I've been saying for years that EIFS does not belong on wood. Cementitious substrates like Durock or Densglass.
Dryvit to this day still sells ADEPS, a glue used to attach EPS directly onto wood substrates. What are they thinking. |
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| www.robsantana.com |
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Jelly
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1017
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| 26 Jan 2008 01:49 PM |
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Unfortunately just the name "EIFS" sounds an alarm for some people. I know it's not deserved, but the perception is there. I think it needs a name change. |
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Lockard
 New Member
 Posts:40
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| 27 Jan 2008 11:40 AM |
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Hello TerryJ. Have you looked into Polyurethane SIPs? Their 4.5" walls are rated at R-28 and their 6.5" roof panels are at least R-40. Also, they have the highest class fire rating for residential construction. And unless you are building a dome, they can do almost any shape including hips and valleys. Arched and geometric window openings are done everyday. OSB will burn, just like many other building materials, but it's not easy to set it on fire as it will reflect heat for a long time before igniting, and as far as I know, these days Poly SIPs and OSB don't outgas anything dangerous or harmful to the environment. Go here: http://www.tecotested.com/pdfs/FAQs/HCHOinPly.OSB.pdf |
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| Lockard |
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GeorgiaTom
 Basic Member
 Posts:159
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| 07 Feb 2008 03:43 PM |
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Posted By Quantum on 01/22/2008 12:56 PM I don't like SIP for a number of reasons, not least that they use OSB (flammable, offgasses formaldehyde) and often isocyanurate foam (thermal drift, offgasses heavy-molecule blowing agent). SIP just couldn't be thick enough to make it worth it to me, plus they can not do complex shapes. Quantum; You say you don't like SIPs, not all are OSB skins .......... are you a builder? |
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EricAkkurt
 New Member
 Posts:3
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| 27 May 2010 07:13 PM |
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EIFS is a great product. Just don't listen to salesmen and hireone of thier company ofcourse if something happen they are not gonna spport you, specialy Dryvit, Sto . I've been in the business for22 years havent had any problem if your looking to use EIFS on your project if your substrate is OSB dont go with mechanicly faster, you should go with drainage system that way your covered by manufactory, and dont depent on stucco contractor once they get paid they dont care what hapens to your home and you also have a right to call manufactory for 3rd party inspection. DONT USE DRYVIT IN YOUR PROJECTS USE IMASCO OR AKRILON I SUGGEST AKRILON THEIR MORE STRAIGHT THEN OTHERS.
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