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Choosing the best water heater
Last Post 06 Aug 2012 07:30 PM by lzerarc. 49 Replies.
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strategery
 New Member
 Posts:84
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| 31 May 2012 04:27 AM |
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I may not be too far from needing a replacement water heater, and I'm not sure what type of water heater would be best.
Current water heater is a 50 gallon electric. It's pretty well-insulated, but it's still a bit costly to operate. My utility company gives a lower electric rate for 6 months of the year for having an electric water heater (it's about 7 cents a kw). The rest of the year it's about 9.
With that in mind, I could replace this thing when it fails with a hybrid heat pump water heater. The cooling/dehumidification effect would be beneficial for several months of the year because my water heater is in the basement where I run a dehumidifier frequently anyway. I often read about how heat pump water heaters are pointless in the colder months because you're just moving air heated by your furnace. Why not just go from heat pump mode to all electric resistance mode during the colder months?
On the other hand, I have natural gas service where I am and gas water heaters have gotten better in recent years. A high-efficiency gas water heater directly vented to the outside could also be an option. The cost of the new tank and the installation is going to be higher than swapping out for an electric tank (or hybrid electric), but maybe the operating cost year round would be significantly lower and make up for it?
I've also considered the merits of going with an on-demand or tankless water heater. There's a lot of happy people who are proponents of them, but also a lot of problems out there that don't seem to be worked out yet. I have pretty cold ground water in the winter and my main concern about going this route is the ability to get the temperature rise I need quickly.
I have a fairly small house with three occupants and a consistent schedule. What do you think?
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MikeSolar
 Basic Member
 Posts:344
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| 31 May 2012 10:43 AM |
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Don't confuse a standard gas water heater that vents out the wall with a high efficiency one. The wall vented ones MAY be high efficiency but you will be paying in the $3000+ just for the unit. A regular low efficiency (less than 60%) gas water heater can go up the chimney or out the wall and there is not that much cost difference between them. If you want mid efficiency (80-88%) then tankless gas is the way to go and if you want high efficiency then the Navien tankless is around 96% or the Polaris water heater (tank type, 95%) is probably 3600+ My informal sources for HP water heaters (new GE type) is that they will probably have a 5-7 year lifespan. Otherwise, what you hear about them seems correct but remember that while they remove humidity in the summer they do not cool. |
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Dana1
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4571
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| 31 May 2012 04:28 PM |
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Of course hybrid electric water heaters cool, just not very much, and not under the control of a room thermostat. The majority of heat they pull out of the room air does not end up back in the house, but instead runs down the drain as tepid water. In constant flow conditions like showers a good fraction of that heat could be delivered to the incoming water stream with a drainwater heat recovery heat exchanger (DWHR), reducing the duty-cycle/load of the water heater. At 7-9 cents/kwh a 3-person household in a heating dominated climate that showers rather than tub-bathes would be better off spending the money on DWHR first, and it's subsidized in some US states for those who with electric hot water heaters. (see: http://www.renewability.com/uploads/documents/en/analysis_dwhr_minnesota.pdf and http://www.mnpower.com/powerofone/one_home/waterheating/specials/dwhr/index.htm ) In other states the subsidy for hybrid electric tanks is about the box-store price for the heater(!), which means the out of pocket is only for the installation. If you're heating the house with an 80% efficent gas heater, the cost of running a hybrid may less than heating water in standard efficiency tank, because roughly half the heat going into the water was from burning gas at 80% efficiency (just like a standard gas fired tank while it's burning) but the standby loss of the tank is much lower than a gas-fired tank. To do much better would require going to a condensing gas-burner, which is substantially more money (the 50 gallon Vertex condensing gas burner is about $1.6K USD, probably about $2K installed, and will outperform most condensing tankless units on efficiency in real-world use since it doesn't short-cycle. It is in many ways comparable to the Polaris.) The downsides to hybrid tanks are capacity (low first-hour gallons), and the noise (way louder than your refrigerator). There is no downside to DWHR, as long as you get a version that won't limit flow. Avoid any with 1/2" connections, and not all with 3/4" connections have the same pressure drop with flow. Last I looked Renewability's PowerPipe series had better flow characteristics than the rest of the field, but it's a moving target. Natural Resources Canada maintains an apples-to-apples efficiency comparison based on a standardized test procedure and flow: http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/residential/personal/retrofit/13302 If you compare them, note that fatter & longer==higher efficiency, so if you go that route, get the biggest one that actually fits. EFI is the US distibutor for PowerPipe, but only carries a few select models: http://www.efi.org/sites/default/files/power_pipe.pdf If the shower is running 2gpm for 3 ten minute showers/day that's pretty close to the full volume of an EF test, but say the shower is only running 20 minutes/day, not 30, that's likely to be over half your total hot water use. With 50% efficiency DWHR it's like heating that half with 3.5-4.5 cent electricity, AND the recovery times between showers is shorter. It's likely to cut hot water heating costs by at least 20%, and could be as high as 30% so it's like heating with 5-5.5 cent electricity during the cheaper electricity season, 6.5-8 cents during the pricier season. If you installed one now, you can worry about the water heater later. Significant water heating savings (well into double-digit percentages) can be cost-effectively gained by insulating all of the heating distribution plumbing that you can get to, and all of the near-tank plumbing (including cold water feed and temperature & pressure overflow plumbing within 10' of the tank) with 5/8" wall closed cell foam pipe insulation (not the cheap 3/8" wall stuff found in box stores.) For a primer on the subject, see: http://www.leaningpinesoftware.com/hot_water_pipes.shtml Something like 15-20% of all hot water heating energy ends up getting abandoned in the distribution plumbing, and insulating the pipes can cut that loss by at least a third, while lowering the standby losses at the tank due to heat conducted out the plumbing connections.
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strategery
 New Member
 Posts:84
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| 31 May 2012 07:12 PM |
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Dana, does that vertex water heater work well for radiant floor heating as well? Because when I remodel my kitchen and bathroom I would like to put in radiant floor heat.
So basically, re: the water heaters, it's
Hybrid HP/Electric Pros: -Lower electric rates 6 months of the year -Lower operating costs 6 months of the year (using HP mode only when in the warmer months) -Takes some of the dehumidification load off of my dehumidifier in the basement, saving me a little more electricity -Keeps my water heating electric, so if I pop up some solar panels down the road, it can be powered by them Cons: -Slow recovery in HP mode (my current electric water heater has never caused us to run out of water) -Noisy -Takes up a lot of space
Condensing Tankless Pros: -Cheap to operate -Takes up very little space -Continuous supply of hot water (but again, I've never had a problem of running out with my electric wh) -No standby heat loss Cons: -Lots of issues with these that don't seem to be completely worked out yet -Complicated, expensive installation possibly requiring an upsizing of my gas line -Potential for cold water sandwiching -May not be able to handle my extremely cold incoming winter groundwater (less than 40 degrees sometimes)
Condensing Gas Tank Pros: -Efficient, cheap to operate (but may still be more than the tankless) -Almost the same continuous hot water supply as the tankless -Less complicated & probably cheaper install than a tankless Cons: -Expensive
Is that about right?
Good points on the DWHR. I am going to start looking into that. Thanks. |
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Dana1
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4571
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| 01 Jun 2012 06:24 PM |
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The Vertex has side-ports for space heating, but no internal heat exchangers, much like the Polaris. To do an isolated (recommended) radiant loop requires 2-pumps and a heat exchanger. The size(s) required depend on the heating load. The efficiency of the condensing tanks tends to exceed that of condensing tankless heaters in real-world performance and are usually cheaper to install, despite a somewhat higher cost for the unit itself. (A 75K burner doesn't need 1.25" gas plumbing, etc.) The very high EF of condensing tankless is in large part an artifact of the EF test itself, in which every draw is more than 5 gallons. In real-world use there are dozens of short draws a 0.2-2 gallons and a few longer draws in a given day, and on every short draw there is an associated ignition cycle and flue purge that throws away a significant fraction of the total fuel used for that draw. In the real world the average efficiency of the condensing tankelss is no more than about 90%, despite a 98% steady-state efficiency and testing out with an EF north of 0.95. A condensing 75K burner can handle one low-flow shower load pretty much forever, but not 2. There's a bigger-burner Vertex available, but if you're doing fine with an electric tank you don't need it, even if you're heating a large zone of your house with it, let alone just a kitchen & bathroom. (I get my hot water from a 48 gallon buffer tank for the heating system that has an internal heat exchanger for the potable, and the modulating burner never hits 65K out even with someone in the shower and all zones calling for heat, but then I have a ~53% efficient DWHR unit feeding back too. Still with just a couple of small zones you won't run out of burner.) |
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strategery
 New Member
 Posts:84
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| 02 Jun 2012 02:38 AM |
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Would it make much a difference if my hot water needs are limited to showers and the dishwasher? We wash all our clothes in cold water. Our handwashing is done with cold water. Wouldn't that make the condensing tankless a better option for me because the ef would be about to what they state plus I wouldn't have the standby losses associated with tanks?
What do you think of tankless units with internal buffer tanks? Or "hybrid" tanks like the eternal or the one by AO smith? About the same price as the Vertex I know, but does it solve a lot of the problems with tankless? Does it still require a bigger gas line?
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knotET
 New Member
 Posts:89
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| 02 Jun 2012 09:02 AM |
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Hello S:
Poaaibly ef for tankless. Correct size (and OEM will mention when you callthem) Gas lines sized to MBTUh are as you thought, very important. A low budget 150 MBTUh unit @ under 2000 installed (by a 'friend' of aGeoThermal customer on existeing natural gas), not producing over 3.6 GPM at a 60F rise from 52F well water, runs poorly on a 1" gas line. Pressures could have been tested, etc. AN additional tank not used as an electric, was for from the GT (originally desuperheateted, small HW GT generator, not Priority) - NOW is just buffer to raise to 90F LIMITED is as a loss all around, rather than just the right design at first... the instant gas HW required a 35-degF potential rise to work on raising water to 125, as programmed.
A Q or 2)
Now mentioning radiant heat, how much , sq ft etc ? and considering more of all the accounting about other possible HW heating with DeHumidification, not robbing the home of heat in the winter, etc., do you owe taxes for to qualify for other ideas?
is solar completely out? is a very small Priority -HW -Heat-Recovery (reclaiming in COOLING modes ) GeoThermal System out ? Could you get from a 3000-4000 install to be a net 5000, for superior savings added to any radiant and heating HW and dehumidification and controlled cooling and forced air controlled/distributed -better GT HtPump ultra ef HVAC-HW-Reclaim-DeHumidification?
Added to radiant and a new HW tank you may want to multiply by 70% of all installed and or contractor costs systemically; and see what local Ut'y rebates may support.
A loop can be installed initially at barely the size of the unit (1.1/2 to 2.1/2 tons) with a 43" wide x 34"h x 13" off wall , floor mounted and very quiet GT-Console, double wall Cu NI heat-exchanger, DIY or contractor, if required. Short of a mini-GT split coil added to an existing HV furnace, that , or a Console, may also provide an exchange for a small back yard pool heating, too: --- NASA Engineer picked up, tied into buffering tank for Domestic-HW (DHW) and heats his pool, leaving the windows open in the home to 'warm up' in the summer.
Local loops and installs should be considerably a best 4-to 5yr ROI. ? Do you have a well? What is the total picture of resources vs needs , from just doing a 3000- 4000 dollar thing, to lifestyle and building and radiant and cooling/Dehumidification, within a budgetary envelope of satisfaction.
YOUR LOCAL installed "costs" may be better-balanced with a 5 year plan, maintenance, replacements in 10 years with ROI's written against "just adding a HW tank". (pulling the "lttle radiant" trigger)
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knotET
 New Member
 Posts:89
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| 02 Jun 2012 09:17 AM |
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If you want mid efficiency (80-88%) then tankless gas is the way to go and if you want high efficiency then the Navien tankless is around 96% or the Polaris water heater (tank type, 95%) is probably 3600+
My informal sources for HP water heaters (new GE type) is that they will probably have a 5-7 year lifespan. Otherwise, what you hear about them seems correct but remember that while they remove humidity in the summer they do not cool.
Hi Mike: EXACTLY- shortevities vs maintenance vs robbing from heating production, to be thoroughly reviewed. (noise, too? What is meant by 'quiet' varies even among a same OEM, unit made on a different day/factory builder? It has been seen since the 1980's w:w-HtP Domestic HW heating survived 30+ years under an amtrol 40gal, directly GT/ GT ground loop/well-source. WITH a SMALL GT-Split add-on, though not as cost-effective/"ton" as a 'best-buy' - it simply has been effectually used with HW-heating-recovery (loop source pump "off", at that time in a Cooling /DeHumidification blower-controlled mode) considering after deducting all usually non-tax-credit/Ut'y rebated components. Is solar out? When not heating HW could solar be going t a radiant booster, as well? Mo'info/pls, from S. |
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Sav
 New Member
 Posts:58
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| 02 Jun 2012 07:28 PM |
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Dear friend,
in my area and I am sure it's similar everywhere, the energy contained in gas is 4 times compared to electric for each dollar.
In other words, it costs 4x as much to heat water with electricity compared to natural gas!
A no brainer! No matter how cheap electricity seems don't go for it.
One more thing: the U.S. is probably the only country where the majority doesn't have a tankless heater or a solar water heater.
It's absurd if you ask me.
Travel to Europe or even China. Everyone heats water with sunlight for FREE. I read CHINA is the leader in solar. CHINA!!! It's CHINA can you believe this.
I saw a video once how they build water heaters for less than $20 in Brazil out of TRASH and they put it on their home and it works for years!
Why is it that we are so far behind? I blame several things:
* georgraphical isolation from the rest of the
world. That's really a problem you know. If China was a road trip from here, we would be inspired to try one of their water heaters, too.
* political isolation from the rest of the world. We will never hear about some other country pushing green tech because cable, CNN and FOX are owned by a handful of rich people
* even simple things as TV aren't really giving you an accurate picture of what's going on in the world, it's all manipulated by corporate giants who don't want you to know nothing.
The ideology "buyer beware" has been driven to its purest form! If you don't know better, your fault! And the government doesn't seam to do much to change this either.
I saw a video of guy installing solar water heaters in Antarctica, so there's no excuse really. The water came out boiling hot!
I asked my plumber hey what does it cost to do tankless, vented, solar, etc. Finding affordable solar appears to be a problem in my area. For all other options we get seriously ripped out (DC metro). Like $1,200 for a 80% power vented 50gallon heater. I am like, dude for that money in Europe you can get a solar heater with an electric backup for cold days!
I would go for a cheap gas tankless if gas is the choice. If it breaks, trash it and buy another (not a green way to do things however). Tankless may require a new gas counter or whatever you call it since they pull a lot of gas in bursts. If you don't go tankless, get a gas heater with electronic timer control so you can switch it off entirely at night time.
I like forums like this one, they are an eye opener to me: hey there's a lot of S***T out there your plumber/roofer/builder/neighbor/etc doesn't know about OR doesn't want *you* to know about. The internet is clearly changing things. |
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MikeSolar
 Basic Member
 Posts:344
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| 03 Jun 2012 10:22 PM |
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Posted By Sav on 02 Jun 2012 07:28 PM
Dear friend,
in my area and I am sure it's similar everywhere, the energy contained in gas is 4 times compared to electric for each dollar.
In other words, it costs 4x as much to heat water with electricity compared to natural gas!
A no brainer! No matter how cheap electricity seems don't go for it.
One more thing: the U.S. is probably the only country where the majority doesn't have a tankless heater or a solar water heater.
It's absurd if you ask me.
Travel to Europe or even China. Everyone heats water with sunlight for FREE. I read CHINA is the leader in solar. CHINA!!! It's CHINA can you believe this.
I saw a video once how they build water heaters for less than $20 in Brazil out of TRASH and they put it on their home and it works for years!
Why is it that we are so far behind? I blame several things:
* georgraphical isolation from the rest of the
world. That's really a problem you know. If China was a road trip from here, we would be inspired to try one of their water heaters, too.
* political isolation from the rest of the world. We will never hear about some other country pushing green tech because cable, CNN and FOX are owned by a handful of rich people
* even simple things as TV aren't really giving you an accurate picture of what's going on in the world, it's all manipulated by corporate giants who don't want you to know nothing.
The ideology "buyer beware" has been driven to its purest form! If you don't know better, your fault! And the government doesn't seam to do much to change this either.
I saw a video of guy installing solar water heaters in Antarctica, so there's no excuse really. The water came out boiling hot!
I asked my plumber hey what does it cost to do tankless, vented, solar, etc. Finding affordable solar appears to be a problem in my area. For all other options we get seriously ripped out (DC metro). Like $1,200 for a 80% power vented 50gallon heater. I am like, dude for that money in Europe you can get a solar heater with an electric backup for cold days!
I would go for a cheap gas tankless if gas is the choice. If it breaks, trash it and buy another (not a green way to do things however). Tankless may require a new gas counter or whatever you call it since they pull a lot of gas in bursts. If you don't go tankless, get a gas heater with electronic timer control so you can switch it off entirely at night time.
I like forums like this one, they are an eye opener to me: hey there's a lot of S***T out there your plumber/roofer/builder/neighbor/etc doesn't know about OR doesn't want *you* to know about. The internet is clearly changing things.
My work IS solar, mostly hot water, tankless heaters, PV and heat pumps we design and make ourselves. A solar hot water system in Europe is more expensive than here but they have more expensive energy and know the value of their energy dollar. China, in many areas, has NO infrastructure so putting in cheap vacuum tube collectors is way cheaper than a lot of NUC or coal plants (although they do that too). For me to make a reasonable living, I have to charge $8k for an complete SDHW installed. Not a cheap one but one with North American and European components. Chinese stuff won't last 25 years but that longevity is demanded here, hence the cost. It usually doesn't sell without rebates and there are very few in Canada now. |
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tigerfan6
 New Member
 Posts:47
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| 04 Jun 2012 11:22 AM |
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Sav,
I have worked in manufacturing plants of various products over the years. There are several points you should take into account about these "large corporations" that are holding us back.
1. They either manufacture a global product, or they manufacture a porduct that is at least applicable to the Western Hemisphere. This is a reality of business.
2. Probably every water heater you can buy meets the vast majority of codes and jurisidictional requirements in every jurisdiction it is sold in, i.e. one size fits all. That big coporation has to hire an army of engineers and product specialists just to be able to do that, plus, it has to keep up with all of the regional changes in those rules, and that is just in the United States. Most manufacturers are selling their product througout the Western Hemishpere, but certainly in the US, Mexico, and Canada. Some jurisdictions have hurricane codes, some have earthquake codes; some prohibit urethane insulations in certain products, others don't, some have all kinds of monoxide detection and flame safety requirements whereas others might have completely different venting requirements. In most US jurisdictions, you probably can't install a device without a UL or CUSA label, you certainly can't buy one without it at Lowes or Home Depot. Your $20 Chinese water heater is never going to meet these requirements. If you built a water heater out of garbage, like the Brazilians, you probably couldn't get FHA financing on that house if you were reselling it until that water heater was removed.
Think about it: 50 states with at least 35 counties or parishes each, several cities in each county, many, many variations in local building codes, which brings us to .....
3. Litigation. That big corporation also employs an army of lawyers. Do you know what happens when a building burns down? The insurance company covering that buiding sues every manufacturer that had electrical product inside of that building, regardless of what started the fire. I know. I had to do supporting work for one of my previous employers legal defense at times (I am an engineer). Two I was directly involved with was a lawsuit by an insurance company after a building was burgularized and burned. The fire marshal ruled it was arson, but my employer was sued by the insurance company of that building because their "experts" decided it was faulty wiring inside an assembly we bought from someone else and incorporated into our product (all UL labeled, or course). In another instance, we were sued because an employee of a construction company dropped one of our products on another employee.
This is the reality of business in the US, and it's reflected in the cost of everything you buy, but more importantly, it is a very real contributing factor to the reluctance of manufacturers to invest in alternative technologies.
4. Profits. Yes, us Capitalist Pigs don't do anything unless it puts money in our pockets. The bottom line is that most of the profit opportunity for most solar water heating systems is on the installation and design side. The individual components are not that much different than standard product. A solar water storage tank, for instance, looks an awful lot like a standard electric water heater. The difference is that it is installed with pumps and piping and control systems and solar collectors, and sometimes heat exchangers and circulating pumps. Most of those components are selected based on the myriad differences of each individual installation. It would be very difficult for a water heater company to produce a "one size fits all" and completely self contained solar water heater. It is rather easy to make a one size fits all and completely self contained electric or gas water heater. So for our big corporation, something like 90% of the profit opportunity for it is in the water heater tank itself. They have no existing business model for the part that Mike Solar* does, and in reality don't want to go there.
So, it boils down to the fact that it seems impossible for that big corporation to produce a unitized and standard design solar water heater that they can sell in the same manner with the same profit margins as a conventional water heater.
5. My tankless Rinnai is absolutely wonderful. It cost about a third the cost to operate as the old gas tank water heater it replaced, but even if it didn't, I NEVER run out of hot water now....and even though it cost so much to retrofit it (in place of an existing gas tank type) that is doesn't have a pay back...I would do it again tomorrow.
6. In my climate, a simple tempering tank in an unvented attic will probably give me 60% of the benefits of solar water heating at probably 10% of the cost....at least 50% of the time...but...I hate vented attics, so I'm not going to do it....see #5 above...
*Note to Mike Solar: I said that's were the profit opportunity is, not that you'd actually realize it. |
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Dana1
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4571
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| 04 Jun 2012 11:34 AM |
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Posted By strategery on 02 Jun 2012 02:38 AM
Would it make much a difference if my hot water needs are limited to showers and the dishwasher? We wash all our clothes in cold water. Our handwashing is done with cold water. Wouldn't that make the condensing tankless a better option for me because the ef would be about to what they state plus I wouldn't have the standby losses associated with tanks?
What do you think of tankless units with internal buffer tanks? Or "hybrid" tanks like the eternal or the one by AO smith? About the same price as the Vertex I know, but does it solve a lot of the problems with tankless? Does it still require a bigger gas line?
The way dishwashers fill is in short bursts, often too short and at low enough flow that a condensing tankless may even fail to light, or only burn for a fraction of the draw. Under that type of operation it's efficiency is well under 50%, and puts more of the hot-water heating load on to the dishwasher's booster-heater. But short draws are a tiny fraction of the overall use a condensing tankless will hit pretty close to it's EF test numbers. (But a condensing tank will hit pretty close to it's EF number under all use profiles, unless you're using less than 30 gallons/day total on average, which would be pretty unlikely for a 3- person household.) Tankless heaters with self-contained mini-buffers have ATROCIOUS real world efficiency compared to condensing tanks or a condensing tankless without buffers, but it cures the "cold water sandwich" issue where some amount of cold water flows through the HX unheated during the ignition delay. See the discussions about the Navien CR-240A performance in this document: http://www.map-testing.com/assets/f...y-2010.pdf Electrical power standby loss on some tankless units are pretty high
too- factor that into any planning before pulling the trigger. The standby loss of a condensing tank is quite small- about the same as with electric tanks. This is in contrast to the standby losses of atmospheric-drafted type gas fired tanks, where the center-flue heat exchanger constantly convects heat out of the tank 24/365. Tankless and hybrid units will almost always need 1-1/4" gas plumbing to handle the max-BTU rate (175-199 KBTU/hr) reliably unless it's distributed at higher pressure & regulated down locally. The Vertex-100 (100 KBTU/hr in) might too if it's a long run, but the Vertex with the 76K burner would usually only need 3/4" line even for low pressure gas distribution. In general the best argument for tankless are when total daily volume use is high or there are very large single batch draws (such as filling spas or soaking tubs), or when space is limited. The efficiency argument is at best a so-so (or so what) proposition. They'll always beat low-end atmospheric drafted tank performance on efficiency, but only rarely beat a condensing tank. |
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Sav
 New Member
 Posts:58
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| 04 Jun 2012 12:27 PM |
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tigerfan6
thank you very much for your detailed reply. This is interesting insight indeed!
legal system and regulations have always been raising costs, however also contribute to safer products. agreed! |
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Sav
 New Member
 Posts:58
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| 04 Jun 2012 12:30 PM |
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Hi Mike
I understand. I was hoping more US companies would enter this market. We need to put our brains together and stay on top of the game. Asia could do what Japan did to Detroit in many areas...
I want Made & "Brained" in the USA AND a fair price and I know it can be done! |
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strategery
 New Member
 Posts:84
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| 04 Jun 2012 06:56 PM |
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The standby loss of a condensing tank is quite small- about the same as with electric tanks. This is in contrast to the standby losses of atmospheric-drafted type gas fired tanks, where the center-flue heat exchanger constantly convects heat out of the tank 24/365.
I wonder why this is? I think I understand how the Vertex condensing unit works. It has a really long coiled heat run that distributes the heat more evenly? But since it USES more of the heat it gets by burning natural gas, wouldn't it also only need to run for a very short period of time causing some lowered efficiency? I'm just thinking about the unit keeping the water at the desired temperature for the 10 hours or more where no hot water is being drawn, but SOME standby loss is occurring? I could imagine that this would need to kick on once or twice a day to keep the water at the set temperature. BTW, we have programmable thermostats for our hvac systems because it saves money not to heat or cool an unoccupied space. Why don't we have these for water heaters? It seems like a no-brainer that we should have more control over the arguably the most expensive appliance in the home. Just curious. Interesting about the Navien CR with its buffer tank and its real performance. They recalled this unit due to a bunch of problems and it's been replaced with a similar one called the NR. I wonder if it wouldn't have been better to test a few different condensing tankless units (such as the eternal, or one of rinnai's) just to be sure that they're not testing a particularly bad unit that spoils the entire category? Dana, do you think a condensing tankless with a well-insulated 1 or 2 gallon electric water heater in front of it to help buffer and eliminate cold water sandwiching would work to resolve the issues with tankless? |
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Sav
 New Member
 Posts:58
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| 04 Jun 2012 07:07 PM |
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in Europe a lot of water heaters incl gas fired have a small microcontroller on them with a display to control on/off schedules. You're right there should be one here too.
Regarding the buffer idea, if you insulate your pipes you could use them as a buffer, especially if they are of a larger diameter |
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MikeSolar
 Basic Member
 Posts:344
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| 05 Jun 2012 06:43 AM |
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Posted By strategery on 04 Jun 2012 06:56 PM
The standby loss of a condensing tank is quite small- about the same as with electric tanks. This is in contrast to the standby losses of atmospheric-drafted type gas fired tanks, where the center-flue heat exchanger constantly convects heat out of the tank 24/365.
I wonder why this is? I think I understand how the Vertex condensing unit works. It has a really long coiled heat run that distributes the heat more evenly? But since it USES more of the heat it gets by burning natural gas, wouldn't it also only need to run for a very short period of time causing some lowered efficiency? I'm just thinking about the unit keeping the water at the desired temperature for the 10 hours or more where no hot water is being drawn, but SOME standby loss is occurring? I could imagine that this would need to kick on once or twice a day to keep the water at the set temperature.
BTW, we have programmable thermostats for our hvac systems because it saves money not to heat or cool an unoccupied space. Why don't we have these for water heaters? It seems like a no-brainer that we should have more control over the arguably the most expensive appliance in the home. Just curious.
Interesting about the Navien CR with its buffer tank and its real performance. They recalled this unit due to a bunch of problems and it's been replaced with a similar one called the NR. I wonder if it wouldn't have been better to test a few different condensing tankless units (such as the eternal, or one of rinnai's) just to be sure that they're not testing a particularly bad unit that spoils the entire category?
Dana, do you think a condensing tankless with a well-insulated 1 or 2 gallon electric water heater in front of it to help buffer and eliminate cold water sandwiching would work to resolve the issues with tankless?
I put in a lot of the CR models a few years ago and regret it. It didn't have anything to do with the buffer tank but with the flow sensor and sometimes the main board. I would say that i have been back to 40% of the installs to change something and while Navien has been good with the parts, I cannot get them under warranty without standing in front of the unit, giving them the model and serial number and going through a series of tests, most of which allow us to reach the same conclusion. Send the same parts. While it is a PITA, and i have to make a minimum of 2 service calls, Navien gets direct knowledge of the issues with the units and I believe this has resulted in the NR model, which, has not had any problems in my installs (fingers crossed). I now carry spares for the older units as I know I will be seeing the customers again. I am definitely not throwing the baby out with the bath water here as I like the build quality of the Navien better than the Rinnai or Takagi etc, and for me its ability to take solar preheated water is important and temp fluctuations with most units under these conditions have caused lots of complaints. That said, many of my customers now turn off their tankless from May to Oct so I wouldn't hear from them anyway. |
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Sav
 New Member
 Posts:58
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| 05 Jun 2012 07:51 AM |
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How about Bosch tankless? Does anyone install it in this forum? |
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strategery
 New Member
 Posts:84
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| 05 Jun 2012 09:49 AM |
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I put in a lot of the CR models a few years ago and regret it. It didn't have anything to do with the buffer tank but with the flow sensor and sometimes the main board. I would say that i have been back to 40% of the installs to change something and while Navien has been good with the parts, I cannot get them under warranty without standing in front of the unit, giving them the model and serial number and going through a series of tests, most of which allow us to reach the same conclusion. Send the same parts.
While it is a PITA, and i have to make a minimum of 2 service calls, Navien gets direct knowledge of the issues with the units and I believe this has resulted in the NR model, which, has not had any problems in my installs (fingers crossed). I now carry spares for the older units as I know I will be seeing the customers again.
I am definitely not throwing the baby out with the bath water here as I like the build quality of the Navien better than the Rinnai or Takagi etc, and for me its ability to take solar preheated water is important and temp fluctuations with most units under these conditions have caused lots of complaints. That said, many of my customers now turn off their tankless from May to Oct so I wouldn't hear from them anyway.
How many NR's have you installed and how long have you been installing them? Do you think the Navien with it's mini-buffer tank has resolved some of the issues with tankless? I don't know what part of the country you're in, I assume that you get lots of sunlight which is why you install solar thermal, but I live in a mixed climate with extreme cold in the winter and extreme heat and humidity in the summer. The thing about tankless that I wrestle with is incoming groundwater temperature. My water is COLD in the winter. I want at least 110 degree hot water, preferably 115. |
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jonr
 Veteran Member
 Posts:3332
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| 05 Jun 2012 12:45 PM |
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a condensing tankless with a well-insulated 1 or 2 gallon electric water heater in front of it I would put it after the tankless to cause less use of the electric heater. And surround it with a box of cellulose insulation. |
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