No problem for 2 people to pour cores and bond beams by hand with a 3 cubic foot mixer. Fill the beams part way and then place the steel. That way you aren't messing with ties or chairs or impeding the flow of concrete down to the bottom. Grab a rebar stick after the core is full and work it up and down until the concrete level doesn't change. To clarify, the common type of AAC block has a compressive strength of 500 psi, or roughly equivalent to unfilled cmu. The steel and concrete in bond beams and cores are for shear strength. You're not likely to have many earthquakes or hurricanes in Indiana, but it isn't necessarily bad that CMU crushes, absorbing blows, and flexes when the earth shifts below it. It is plenty strong structurally. I have 2,280 pounds of water, in a form of a hot water tank and heat storage tank, hanging from bond beams in my house, and another couple tons of rough cut lumber hanging from bond beams in the garage. (Love those wedge bolts.) As I pointed out before, the concrete in AAC is under 10 percent of volume and is insulated on either side by what would be effectively 3/4 inch of eps. Thermal bridging isn't great, but it isn't the horror that GBA makes it out to be. You get more with ICF: more compressive strength, more shear strength, more static R value. You also get higher costs and more serious consequences in DIY mistakes. So the question is what you need. In my small passive solar house, it would take a multiple generations to recover the cost of ICF, and comfort would suffer because exposed AAC buffers heat more effectively. Your results will vary.
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