Bob: First off, I meant to say "viewpoints", not "viewpints". I will be installing the exterior vented range hood, and HRV bath vents are allowed here. I've been thinking of using blown cellulose; the only problem is how do I pack cellulose right up to the peak, with no voids? I guess the short answer is: hire an insulation contractor, and follow his directions. Alternately, I have a good supply of used 3" DOW SM, and, at R5/inch, 10" would give me the roofing insulation minimum of R50. I don't know, at this point, if less SM on the outside can be supplemented by Roxul, for instance, on the underside, but it will be great fun (not!) installing vapor barrier in the attic. My truss supplier is roughing out a sort of a modified scissor attic truss design, so that may make things easier all around. And yes, I will be installing a water barrier over the whole roof. Jonr: I mispoke: it's water drainage barrier over the plywood and under the steel roof, and vapor barrier under the roof. Badger: We will be using dedicated duct work with an HRV with ECM motors, timers in each bathroom, condensate drain, & electric resistance coils for defrost; the defrost was not a consideration until this miserable winter weather hit us where it hurts. To balance the system, all supply & return ducts will be of equal length, and the HRV itself will be sitting on the attic floor, or very nearly so. Our site is about 1/2 mile from Lake Ontario, so dry air should not be a problem, I hope. It has been written of multi-storey homes that "Dumping cold air on the upper storey of a multi storey home, can increase the thermal stack effect" and it will be "harder to balance the levels. Dumping it in a lower level and allowing it to work its way up slows down thermal stack." Our home is a bungalow with finished basement, so only 2 levels, but it did make me stop & think. I would be interested in how the stack effect will work to my advantage when using a heat recovery ventilator. |