Are you familiar with aerconAAC products ? I could be way off base here but the blocks are both insulation and support all I should have to do is seal surfaces after build and routing electric and plumbing.

Hi it's me again.If really interested google 100_0124jpg image or 3.bp.blogspot cabin both built out of AAC block. Then google www.fargesia to see what I want to build! See www.thesmallhousecatalog.com/home/fargesia to get free floor plans! Or leave off the end to see others!☺

Posted By UREdogLady on 05 Sep 2015 07:35 PM
Are you familiar with aerconAAC products ? I could be way off base here but the blocks are both insulation and support all I should have to do is seal surfaces after build and routing electric and plumbing.

I understand what AAC is, and insulation is inherent in its structure. That's why it is ideal for external walls, but the insulation isn't necessary for interior walls. It's very easy to route electrical and plumbing in steel stud interior walls because they are hollow. It is not impossible to do that with AAC block, but it would take more effort.

Posted By UREdogLady on 06 Sep 2015 01:28 PM
...google www.fargesia to see what I want to build! ...

I took a look at it and I think it's a very smart design. One question is what do you plan to build the roof out of?

Makes some sense to continue inside one block at a time rather than wrestle wall board. If steel SIPs can be finished on the underside with texturing paint, you'd be doing almost all of your finish work with a paint roller. For those of us who understand that the real work starts inside, all I can say is hallelujah. You'll need textured paint formulated for AAC, which is 80 percent air on its surface. Regular ole concrete paint works but either the joints are painfully obvious or, if you bed them with AAC plaster, you see a mix of smooth and porous.

You'll need a well thought out plan for plumbing and electric with solid materials in all three dimensions. Code requires PVC chases in the slab so wire or pex can be replaced. Building conduit into the walls gives you the same repairability. You'll want the plumber and electrician on board at the planning stage. The actual work of pulling pipe and wire should be cheaper because you're doing the hard work for them.

Posted By toddm on 06 Sep 2015 07:01 PM
... If steel SIPs can be finished on the underside with texturing paint, you'd be doing almost all of your finish work with a paint roller...

That's going to require a thermal barrier - such as sheetrock or intumescent paint, among other possibilities.

Posted By toddm on 06 Sep 2015 07:01 PM
Makes some sense to continue inside one block at a time rather than wrestle wall board...

I'm just trying to consider bottomline numbers - I'd assume the insulation properties in the AAC block would be built into the cost?

I an trying to alter the interior floor plan, by switching the bedroom and bath, put the kitchen sink on the other wall. Then the plumbing would be centrally located. Pour and score concrete floor or just polished concrete done in two sections, so (god forbid) anything were to happen to plumbing the whole floor won't have to be jackhammered.Cosmetics are just that,and stucco can go directly on exterior block. Unless I'm mistaken I can finish out the interior If I cut channels for electrical into the block I'll cover it with trim or baseboard. I haven't completely worked out costs or type of roof. Metal w/ insulation or steel sips (ck) says they' re light enough to DYI with helpers No cranes or hired contractors. PS are you able to view images?

I' ve gotten most of my info from Mike at AeroconAAC . He said they have stucco and sealers made for the block, and he knows I an trying to do everything on a tight budget. He has excess block he'll get me a good price on, and will help with county planners, etc. I really hope there is no deception involved just to get a sale. That would definitely be poor business practice. So if anyone knows anything that might work be better I'm open to options.

UREdogLady try clicking on the little envelope icon below a users name over at the left side of a post to send them a private message (pictures and so forth). But sometimes there are problems with the site so it may or may not work.

I used the concrete slab as the finished floors in my house. I didn't bother with scoring them because of the extra step involved, the potential to mess it up, and the worry that it would just be a dust and grime catcher over time. I did the concrete staining and sealing myself and they have been great floors - very simple to keep clean. There will be hairline cracks but that's a natural part of concrete. If you want to consider adding more finishes down the road then that's always possible too. But if you do plan to end up adding tile later in the kitchen, for example, you have to be careful with clearances of things like the dishwasher, et cetera.

@UREdogLady Thank you for the update on your plans the Fargeshia once complete seems like it will be a cozy home. The system I mentioned will not need a crane or a GC. It basically goes up like and erector set.

@toddm I do not believe the Forever House is the originator of this idea by no means. The website you provided is definitely interesting. And in regards to the weight of the AAC panels, it will not take crane or four burly friends to pick up one of these panels. These are light weight panels. To my knowledge the panels are placed using a two person team in which is fairly simple. There is said to be other siding materials compatible with the AAC panels outside of stucco.


I wish you luck UREdogLady.

Just guessing (wrongly) about the weight based on my experience with 24x84x6 panels at 350# each. AAC interior wall panels at a density of 500 psi and a width of 4 inches would come closer to about 300#. You can buy thinner panels with more porosity (air) for exterior sheathing but you wouldn't want to drop them. Or count on it holding a screw unless it hits the metal stud. I can't see why you choose AAC over reclaimed foam board, which is clearly greener,more efficient and cheaper, except as a stucco base.

That is great advise @Toddm. Are you a general contractor?

I've found more Info on aac/ greenspec.buildinggreen.com/blogs/autoclaved-aerated-concrete-aac-will-us-ever-lighten-up Another educational sorce for my quest.

Thinking over my original plans and wondered if it would be practical to raise the roof on the fargesia plans to accommodate a loft most of the cost of the building is already spent on foundation and 4 walls and raising the roofline would increase the sq ft and storage immensely.

I think it's a question for the engineer. Are the AAC vendors offering engineering services?

Quote "We do not engineer building due to the liability of being a manufacturer. We do deal with other engineers in theater." I'm not quite sure what in theater means, but I'll be talking to him again to find out.

UREdoglady:
I live in a Hebel built condo and just bought a Hebel built house. These are on the Panhandle of Florida on the water. I can tell you that the places are very quiet and robust. My roof is a concrete panel with hollowed out core with rebar. Typically truss and tiles above that.
These places are rock solid and put here to withstand hurricanes which so far they come through unscathed.
Hebel is very similar to AAC and I think once done you will love the soundness, sound attenuating properties and strength of AAC. It isn't up to ICF but is very suitable for most locations.
The places I own were built to German specs by local craftsman and the reason was that the Germans who developed this area wanted homes that might take water and survive.
They did extensive research before picking this building material so regardless of those that state that engineers will not pass this (I am a PE by the way but not structural) they are misinformed and need to educate themselves before offering unfounded opinions.
Look forward to hearing about your progress...

Fun2drive. Thanks for the encouragement, I needed that. So far I've run into snag after snag. My septic is for a 2/1 so it has to be upgraded. My plot map and deed don't match, extensive surveys are underway. One survey was off 3' so I have to get another one done. I don't know why I can't just lay out the plan well inside property lines and be done with it,but with the way it's going it might be next year before I get the rest of this lot cleared. The back property line is Nat. Forest so, no leaway there, and the front posts are buried in 50yrs of road gravel, who wants to dig up the road? County regs need to be tweaked for situations like this! But the building plans have come together pretty well, as far as that's concerned. I think it will be quite satisfying in the end to look back and say look what I did.

Dunno NC codes but it is quite likely that your building inspector wants plans with a stamp from a NC licensed engineer. Aercon was actually quite helpful to my engineer and to me.

Sad to say, you have had only a small taste of the red tape involved in building. I got lucky. My building inspector saw his job as making sure that new-home buyers got what they paid for and, after a period of skeptical evaluation, decided I didn't need saving from myself. (Mostly.) Hiring a plumber and an electrician gets you by the tougher parts of the code but there is still a lot to learn. Don't wear out your welcome with the inspector. Asking questions that require local interpretation is the way to establish your bona fides.