berky
New Member
Posts:79
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19 Oct 2016 11:20 PM |
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basically i'm looking for a cheap way to keep my garage bathroom above freezing in the winter. The rest of the garage will not be insulated at first (will be eventually). The bathroom will be insulated, but the HVAC does not extend to the garage, so I have no current method of heating. Do they make really small mini splits or similar? We're talking less than 45 sq ft, and only concerned with keeping above freezing. Suggestions? I want something I can set to a temp and let it go. Thanks. |
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Deuce
New Member
Posts:9
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20 Oct 2016 09:20 AM |
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Use a 2' or smaller electric baseboard heater. |
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jonr
Senior Member
Posts:5341
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20 Oct 2016 10:00 AM |
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I agree, electric is simple, even if it isn't the most $ efficient in operation. Maybe add some infrared bulbs and a heated seat to make it more comfortable to use while leaving it cool most of the time. |
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ronmar
Basic Member
Posts:479
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20 Oct 2016 02:38 PM |
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Yep, small electric. Even a small plugin/portable with a thermostat would keep the temp reasonable in that small a space if it is insulated... |
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Dana1
Senior Member
Posts:6991
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20 Oct 2016 04:16 PM |
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Do the napkin math on the the heat load. How many square feet of exterior wall, how many square feet of window (and window type)? What is your 99% outside design temperature? If it has no window and it's a 2x4/R13 wall you're probably looking at no more than 65 square feet of U0.08 wall. Assuming the design temperature is 0F, and you keep the bathroom at 50F for freeze control, that'a a 50F difference, for a loss of U0.08 x 50F x 65 square feet= 260 BTU/hr or 260/3.412= 76 watts. The air leakage + heat loss to the much warmer but still cool garage might double that and with a cheap bathroom door even more, but you're probably looking at less than 200 watts of electric baseboard or panel radiator. If you put the thermostat on a switch you can just leave it off until/unless the overnight low is predicted to be under 20F. The key will be finding a thermostat that can be set that low.
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berky
New Member
Posts:79
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20 Oct 2016 11:42 PM |
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Dana, you hit everything pretty close. There's no window and 3 sides of the bathroom are adjacent to the rest of the garage. I'm not sure what the 99% outside design temp is for Zone 5, but i'm hoping that the inside temp stays above freezing the majority of the time on its own. I found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00865JSEU/ that I was going to pair with one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/120-Volt-Thermocube-Thermostatically-Controlled-Outlet-TC3/100210525 otherwise I was going to get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093GQLTG/ The first option is much cheaper, so if that'll do the job, I'll just stick with that.
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arkie6
Veteran Member
Posts:1453
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21 Oct 2016 09:21 PM |
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Posted By berky on 20 Oct 2016 11:42 PM
I found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00865JSEU/ that I was going to pair with one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/120-Volt-Thermocube-Thermostatically-Controlled-Outlet-TC3/100210525 The first option is much cheaper, so if that'll do the job, I'll just stick with that.
That should work fine. I use the same Thermocube outlet to power a 250W heat lamp in an aluminum reflector in my 10'x12' water well pump house / storage building. A 250W heat lamp pumps out a lot of heat and would be another option that is even cheaper than that flat heater. https://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-302...Blamp&th=1https://www.amazon.com/Phillips-416...=heat+lampIf you want something that is built in with a cleaner look, this is another option: https://www.amazon.com/Broan-161-In...FKKXF&th=1And here is a line-voltage mechanical thermostat that goes down to 40F that you could pair with that built in heat lamp housing: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CT...thermostat |
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Roger R
Basic Member
Posts:131
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21 Oct 2016 09:41 PM |
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I have used the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00865JSEU/ in a back bedroom. It looks great, but uses as much electricity as a little portable heater. Not cheap.
Arkie, Why do you use heat lamps in your pump room? Do you heat the whole room or direct the lights at your pressure pump or pressure tank? |
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HP Home
New Member
Posts:38
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22 Oct 2016 12:19 AM |
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Something like this-
https://m.lowes.com/pd/Cadet-Compak-Bath-1-000-Watt-120-240-Volt-Heater-Fan-Heater-10-in-L-x-12-625-in-H-Grille/3073041
You might want to plan on keeping it 50F or so to prevent drywall cracks. And if a pipe were to ever freeze and burst the insurance guy won't pay for it if you didn't have adequate heat in the space. |
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arkie6
Veteran Member
Posts:1453
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22 Oct 2016 09:03 AM |
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Posted By Roger R on 21 Oct 2016 09:41 PM
Arkie, Why do you use heat lamps in your pump room? Do you heat the whole room or direct the lights at your pressure pump or pressure tank?
I have the heat lamp hanging down approximately 2' above the concrete floor near the pressure tank and well piping since keeping that stuff from freezing is the only reason I have the heat lamp in there. With the Thermocube set to turn it on at 35F, it hardly ever comes on. To be honest, I don't know if it has ever come on in the pump house. I did test the Thermocube in the fridge turned way down when I first got it and it did close its contacts when it got cold. I live near the edge of Zone 3 and 4, the building is insulated, the slab edge is insulated, and the slab is in direct contact with the earth. Prior to installing the Thermocube, I would typically turn the light on at night when it was projected to drop below 20F or so. In the morning when I would go and turn off the light, it would be in the mid 60's in that room. |
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berky
New Member
Posts:79
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24 Oct 2016 08:55 PM |
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Thanks everyone for the ideas. I think for now I'll keep the water off in there and then deal with it later. I'll be able to put in any of those options after the fact. |
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