ICFconstruction
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1324

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| 10 Dec 2008 06:28 PM |
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Maybe insulate the underside of roof sheathing, water/antifreeze tubing on top of the sheathing and dark sheet-metal over that. Furring strips could create the space for the tubing. |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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Alton
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2164
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| 10 Dec 2008 10:39 PM |
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A system like this has been on the market for several years. I usually see it under tile roofs in Florida. |
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Residential Designer & Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period . 334 826-3979 |
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ICFconstruction
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1324

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| 11 Dec 2008 09:08 AM |
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Would it work in Minnesota? |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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Manfred
 Basic Member
 Posts:200
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| 15 Dec 2008 08:03 AM |
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Yes, it would work. |
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| Manfred Knobel<br>Moss Pointe Builders, Inc. |
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ICFconstruction
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1324

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| 15 Dec 2008 11:46 AM |
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I will have just a 4/12 pitch. Or would I be better off using pre-made panels that I set at 60 degrees, or whatever. |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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Brock
 Advanced Member
 Posts:599

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| 15 Dec 2008 06:21 PM |
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In MSP you would want about a 60 degree pitch, basically your latitude +15 degrees. With a 4/12 pitch I would think snow would stand on it and then it wouldn't work anyway. |
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| Green Bay, WI. - 4 ton horizontal goethermal, 16k gallon indoor pool, 3kw solar PV setup, 2 ton air to air HP, 3400 sq ft |
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ICFconstruction
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1324

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| 15 Dec 2008 06:54 PM |
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But let say it was 60 degrees, how would that compare to commercially produced panels? Let just say with the same money spent. |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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Brock
 Advanced Member
 Posts:599

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| 15 Dec 2008 09:10 PM |
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I have no idea; the big thing with commercially available solar radiant tubes is they are vacuumed sealed tubes inside the collector. So it doesn't matter what the outside temps are, only that you have sunlight available. Putting the tubes under a roof will definitely be affected by attic temps, honestly except on a really sunny day I think you would radiate more heat out then warming up water. |
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| Green Bay, WI. - 4 ton horizontal goethermal, 16k gallon indoor pool, 3kw solar PV setup, 2 ton air to air HP, 3400 sq ft |
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Dteltech
 New Member
 Posts:27
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| 03 Mar 2009 10:58 AM |
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Your collector efficiency is based on maximizing absorbed sunlight that is converted to heat energy, minimizing heat loss from the absorber and removal of captured energy from the absorber plate which is then transferred to the point of use. I would guess that your collector efficiency, from mid autumn through mid spring, would be less that 20% and quite often 0%. Consider the efficiency of manufactured collectors and the load that you are trying to heat before you invest in something that yields little or no return on investment. In a nutshell, solar collectors in our northern climates REQUIRE glazing to work with the outside temperatures that make up the better part of the year. Start with what you are trying to supply heat to (domestic water, space heating, etc.) and then look for a way to provide or supplement that requirement. |
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| Here comes the sun |
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jmagill
 Basic Member
 Posts:374
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| 05 Mar 2009 02:28 PM |
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http://www.carb-swa.com/documents/SolarHotWaterResearch.pdf
Have a look at the above. I have also seen this done with warmfloor used under the metal roof and flexible solar electric on top of the metal.
http://www.dawnsolar.com/ |
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Tom in Maine
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 17 Mar 2009 07:39 PM |
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You can certainly put tubing under a metal roof in northern climates, the performance is fairly dismal, compared to most other solar thermal concepts. Dteltech is absolutely correct. I would suggest checking out the SRCC numbers on such systems. An unglazed pool collector would do much better, as would a glazed flat plate. The big thing the under roof system has going for it is it is totally hidden. Unfortunately it pays a very, very large thermal price for that aesthetic.
Tom www.americansolartechnics.com |
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