Its OK, the earth cooled last year, it is now best to use high VOC products! now we are back in global cooling.

I also am searching for an alternative concrete stain. I have found one online - EcoCrete but I cannot verify its durability.
Let me know if you have found anything else.

There is also a product called SoyCrete.

I used to be sold on good varnish, but it often peeled with age. Then I used polyurethane varnish. Great stuff. But then I discovered how bad it yellows and becomes brittle, and comes off easily.
For the past 8 years or so, I've used nothing but water based varnishes on floor and furniture. I've had no problem, and it is MUCH easier to work with and minimal drying times. When I did a floor in Albuquerque (very dry there), bu the time I finished painting it, it was ready to work where I had started. I haven't been able to see how it wears on a highly travelled floor, but it's better than poly.

I understand that prefinished wood floors are adding aluminum oxide to make the surface wear better. I wonder if this can be used for DIY finishing.

Red Rain 3535, Go to www.StableCrete.com to research history and projects of StableCrete to Waterproof and protect any Portland Cement based concrete. This product is a permanent/intregal sealer that can not be removed once it has penetrated and reacted. Wide selection of colors in Earth and Tropical Bright tones available. Does not dis-color or become subject to moisture, Alkali Burn, peeling or blistering. 13g/L VOC and a final finish to a concrete floor. Compare to other penetrating sealers! No provision for re-application and safe for use around mateals or glass without fear of etching those surfaces. Listed as a Concrete Waterproofing Compound with Florida Green Building Coalition. Will be glad to E-mail Color Charts & VOC test data to you. Direct mail= StableCrete@att.net Hope this helps! Glenn

Check out Sim STain Simulated Acid stain www.simstain.com we have been using it for years and have had no problems and it hold up great.  I have attached a photo of a recent job the stain is water based, enviromentally safe, and has little to no VOC so it great for LEED certification.  They have 24 + colors that are UV stable for exterior or interior use and you can use what ever type of sealer you want over it.

Jerry, Your comments concerning peeling, yellowing and coming off easily are very common to any Membrane Coating. With the issue of UV fade considered, the other draw backs are usually caused by lack of adhesion to the concrete. Bond loss is due to the internal chemistry migrating out of the matrix to collect at the concrete/coating[membrane] interface. Most often referred to as Alkali Burn.(peeling-blistering-bubbling) Any concrete not stabilized, see web site[www.StableCrete.com] will allow chemical and moisture migration out to react with an atmosphere. Efflorescence, ASR, and ettringite is the result, among others. Untreated concrete also becomes the victim of Carbonation immediately on contact with air. Now a concrete begins to loose it's high pH, which commences corrosion cell formation on Re-Bar! You will find far superior adhesion of membranes to any concrete surface if you waterproof it and stabilize it before any coating application!

  They have 24 + colors that are UV stable for exterior or interior use and you can use what ever type of sealer you want over it.

I have used Hyrdrocote products for wood with great results. Specifically Polyshield, Resisthane and clear sealer. We sprayed and brush applied Polyshield on cherry kitchen cabinets over oil stain about four years ago and it still looks brand new. Water and cleaning products have had no effect on the finish. Grease around the cooking surface is cleaned with windex without damaging the finish. We also applied polyshied to a stair case, as a stop gap, almost four years ago in a high traffic area and it has yet to scratch.

It applies very smoothly because it is pretty thin. Finish buffs and polishes very well with pumice or car detailing compound. Brushes are very easy to clean up w/ dish soap and hot water.

One thing to consider is your finish will look much different than traditional poly or shellac. Those finishes give an amber hue which warms up the wood. Water based finishes are absolutely clear. Even a low sheen satin will give you the appearance of a film because it is absolutely clear.

The staircase I mentioned is oak w/ no stain and satin polyshied. It just doesn't look right compared to the other staircases w/ oil poly. Had I stained or dyed it lightly it would look great.

There are many of the low VOC products that are very durable and actually outperform the older products as most companies put most of their research and development into low VOC formulations. Many commercial grade water based polyurethanes outperform oil based urethanes. Many manufactures produce various grades of products. You need to read the specifications for durability with each product and compare the results so that you get an apples to apples comparison.

Specifically referring to the hardwood floor finish...I'd recommend the AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP product. Not only is it made by a company that focuses on supplying products that are safe enough for those with chemical sensitivity, its also a really durable product! The Madison Children's Museum in Wisconsin uses it for all of their traveling exhibits. After tens of thousands of kids climb all over these things...only touch-ups are required! I also know that it is one of the only wood finishes allowed in the Japanese school system, due to its safety and durability.

jonr...The factory applied ceramic/alum oxide finishes requires a UV curing method, which cannot be done on-site.