Serious Windows - Worth the Upgrade??
Last Post 15 Feb 2010 07:32 PM by Window4U. 8 Replies.
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NOVAUser is Offline
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10 Feb 2010 12:13 PM

 So we're building a new home and investing in the tightest envelope we can afford - ICF walls, spray foam insulation, under slab insulation, etc and naturally presumed we should also buy the best windows we could afford.  However, we had an energy analysis done and by going from a moderately priced U-0.28 fiberglass window to the much more expensive Serious 725 series with a U-factor of 0.18, we saved a predicted grand total of $9 month on a total predicted bill of $190/month.  It also did not decrease the size of the HVAC equipment we required.  Can this be true??  The engineers explanation was that the relatively modest improvement in R-value provided by the Serious windows and the relatively low proportion of surface area of windows to the other planes of the house that lose/gain heat (ie roof, walls, slab, etc) explained the modest improvement in performance.  With the Serious windows being 50% more that the U-0.28 windows, the payback (not necessarily the only consideration) would be enormously long, if this is true.  Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts?  Thanks in advance for any help.

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10 Feb 2010 12:23 PM
Posted By NOVA on 10 Feb 2010 12:13 PM

 So we're building a new home and investing in the tightest envelope we can afford - ICF walls, spray foam insulation, under slab insulation, etc and naturally presumed we should also buy the best windows we could afford.  However, we had an energy analysis done and by going from a moderately priced U-0.28 fiberglass window to the much more expensive Serious 725 series with a U-factor of 0.18, we saved a predicted grand total of $9 month on a total predicted bill of $190/month.  It also did not decrease the size of the HVAC equipment we required.  Can this be true??  The engineers explanation was that the relatively modest improvement in R-value provided by the Serious windows and the relatively low proportion of surface area of windows to the other planes of the house that lose/gain heat (ie roof, walls, slab, etc) explained the modest improvement in performance.  With the Serious windows being 50% more that the U-0.28 windows, the payback (not necessarily the only consideration) would be enormously long, if this is true.  Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts?  Thanks in advance for any help.



 

If you look at some of my other posts, I'm in the same boat.  I've all but ruled out the Serious windows because we'd have to sacrifice too many other things to get them.  Interestingly, we are doing many of the same things you're describing (minus ICF walls). 

What I've found in my research is that there are some windows that offer similar performance for less money, but they are vinyl rather than fiberglass.  How important are fiberglass frames to you?

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10 Feb 2010 03:41 PM
Are you in a location that can take advantage of passive solar through windows on the south side? I looked at Serious windows, but found that I could do much better with higher solar gain windows that were somewhat higher in U-factor, and were also less expensive. To quanitfy results, I used ResFen, the free software from Lawrence Berkeley - Dept. of Energy. Too much focus on U-factor and too little on solar gain might be shortsighted unless you are living in the clouds.
Lee Dodge,
<a href="http://www.ResidentialEnergyLaboratory.com">Residential Energy Laboratory,</a>
in a net-zero source energy modified production house
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10 Feb 2010 05:49 PM
Posted By Lee Dodge on 10 Feb 2010 03:41 PM
Are you in a location that can take advantage of passive solar through windows on the south side? I looked at Serious windows, but found that I could do much better with higher solar gain windows that were somewhat higher in U-factor, and were also less expensive. To quanitfy results, I used ResFen, the free software from Lawrence Berkeley - Dept. of Energy. Too much focus on U-factor and too little on solar gain might be shortsighted unless you are living in the clouds.


I'm curious if anyone else has used this tool?  I hadn't used it before but downloaded just now & ran with the specs for the house we're building.  It gave me an annual cost to heat/cool of $270.  That would be fantastic, but it's I don't know if I believe it.  A little over $20/month to heat/cool a 2000 sq foot house?
 

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10 Feb 2010 07:38 PM
jerkylips-
Keep in mind that RESFEN:
- does not include domestic hot water costs
- does not include monthly connection fees (maybe $7 -$10/month for electricity, and similar if you have natural gas)
- assumes that the solar heat gain can be stored without overheating house (potentially significant limitation)
- makes very global assumptions about shading and air infiltration

You can get a second opinion using HEED, which is also free.
Lee Dodge,
<a href="http://www.ResidentialEnergyLaboratory.com">Residential Energy Laboratory,</a>
in a net-zero source energy modified production house
NOVAUser is Offline
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10 Feb 2010 09:05 PM
My own take on SHG is that we didn't really design a passive solar house and while there are windows on the south side to capture some sunlight and views, we didn't specifically design to maximize solar gain. Hence I will have a (hopefully compact and efficient) HVAC system which will make the house comfortable and my main aim is to capture and keep as much of the heating or cooling it generates. Hence the tight envelope and my focus on U-factor. It's a simplistic view but SHG is nice for a few winters days when the sun is out but the sun is also down for many more hours and then there's the summer to contend with and all that time the sacrifice in R-value to accommodate more SHG is coming back to haunt you.
Btw, we are just outside of DC where we are inconveniently located between being both a heating and a cooling/dehumidifying climate.
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10 Feb 2010 09:57 PM
HEED also shows very small savings with better windows.

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11 Feb 2010 08:58 AM
Nova, I can introduce you to a fellow who built a passive solar house near Gettysburg in the '80s. He claims with no HVAC the house has never been colder than 62. One word about summertime heat gains: overhangs.

Jerkylips, you'd buy fiberglass windows for their expansion characteristics, which match glass and frame more closely than vinyl or wood and thus should last longer (i.e. seal tightly and hold the vacuum between the panes.) That said, none of the super windows have been around long enough to back up that claim with data. Wood is second best.

Consumer Reports liked Andersen for value and performance among the major brands. alside, an inexpensive vinyl window, also did well.

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15 Feb 2010 07:32 PM
Posted By toddm on 11 Feb 2010 08:58 AM

Consumer Reports liked Andersen for value and performance among the major brands. alside, an inexpensive vinyl window, also did well.


Consumer Reports only rates windows that are available to consumers in places like Big Box stores. Thus, they end up rating what we in the industry feel are the worst windows in the marketplace.
 So, IMO ...if you listen to them you are only going to end up with the best of a short list of bad windows.
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