Dryer vent location - attic vs conditioned space
Last Post 05 Mar 2015 09:22 PM by Stuie. 9 Replies.
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eljayUser is Offline
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03 Mar 2015 04:04 PM
Well, I have asked my builder to run the dryer vent pipe under the bathroom ceiling and out the side wall, so that the pipe is inside the conditioned space. The project manager just told me that the HRV crew already ran the pipe through the attic space before he could instruct them.
So, he's asking me whether I want the pipe moved to inside the heated space and vent it to the outside wall from the inside. Now, that they have the pipe in the attic space and wrapped in insulation and a hole punched on the side wall, I'm contemplating whether to leave it or get them to change it.

Here's the picture of the space with my artistic attempt to draw the options.


The red shows where they ran the pipe and the green shows where I wanted to run it. Running it inside the bathroom would mean cutting across the shower stall and adding a bulkhead around the pipe and then vent it directly to the outside wall with the window. It's not preferable for aesthetic reasons, but I made the decision to do it anyway in the name of efficiency!

This bathroom is on the outside corner of the main level. Meaning the wall behind the laundry stack and both shower walls are exterior walls. There is no heated space above the bathroom, just the attic. Attic insulation will be R50 and it has a raised heel truss design. The builder said that currently the pipe would be sitting inside the blown attic insulation once they add it. That means there would be a 4" hole in the insulation, but the pipe condensation risk should be minimized.

So, I am just thinking about the heated escaping up the pipe into the attic. Do you think I should ask them to change it and move the pipe from the attic inside the bathroom space or not worry about it? Does it make a difference if there is a hole punched in the outside wall of a heated space or in the ceiling?

Thank you!

Eric AndersonUser is Offline
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03 Mar 2015 07:10 PM
My take it to leave it where it is. I assume it is 4” galvanized Duct, and insulated? I would make sure the sections are attached with foilmastic tape and no screws to catch lint. The horizontal part should slope slightly towards the outside.
My other recommendation is to use a heartland dryer vent for the termination- they are a bit ugly but seal well and don’t get jammed open and can be readily cleaned.

Cheers
Eric
Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing
Eric AndersonUser is Offline
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03 Mar 2015 07:11 PM
My take it to leave it where it is. I assume it is 4” galvanized Duct, and insulated? I would make sure the sections are attached with foilmastic tape and no screws to catch lint. The horizontal part should slope slightly towards the outside.
My other recommendation is to use a heartland dryer vent for the termination- they are a bit ugly but seal well and don’t get jammed open and can be readily cleaned.

Cheers
Eric
Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing
Eric AndersonUser is Offline
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03 Mar 2015 07:11 PM
My take it to leave it where it is. I assume it is 4” galvanized Duct, and insulated? I would make sure the sections are attached with foilmastic tape and no screws to catch lint. The horizontal part should slope slightly towards the outside.
My other recommendation is to use a heartland dryer vent for the termination- they are a bit ugly but seal well and don’t get jammed open and can be readily cleaned.

Cheers
Eric
Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing
eljayUser is Offline
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03 Mar 2015 10:00 PM
Thank you Eric. We stopped by the house late this evening and peaked through the bathroom window. I can that there is 4" rigid metal duct pipe from where the dryer will be to the ceiling. Starting at the ceiling, it is insulated in a black duct insulation wrap. Should the insulation start from where it connects to the dryer?

Also, they actually ran it up behind the dryer and then turned it towards the spot where I stood taking this photo and then turned towards the outside wall. The vent hole is actually right above the window above the ceiling.
I have no idea why they didn't just go up and to the side like I pictured it. Why add the extra run and another turn?!!
I would love to tell them to fix it and run it towards the outside wall as soon as it hits the attic, but I'm worried whether they will do a good job re-sealing the hole they punched into the sheathing, rigid foam insulation and vinyl siding.
Should I not worry about that?

Also, can that Heartland vent be used on an range hood vent too? Sounds like it would perform the same sealing function well. My range hood has only 300cfm motor though.
And I agree, it's very ugly!
LbearUser is Offline
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04 Mar 2015 07:35 PM
OR you can just forget about the entire ducting and venting thing and just get a VENTLESS heat pump dryer and call it a day!

Who needs more holes in their head, walls or roof? Not me!




Not to mention those dryer vents ALWAYS get clogged with fire causing lint and they are a PIA to clean out properly, especially if the pipe has bends in it, which yours appears to have. Don't do sharp 45 degree bends. Thousands of homes per year catch on fire due to dryer vents and lint.


eljayUser is Offline
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04 Mar 2015 09:57 PM
Lbear, I contemplated that, but we couldn't find a reasonably priced ventless dryer and didn't want the moist air back in the house.

I think I will ask them tomorrow to fix it and run the pipe up to the attic and then a single out to the side wall. Regarding, the Heartland vent cover, how does one clean the lint out?
It seem that it angles upwards and once sealed against the inside pipe, it looks like it will be hard to clean out compared to a pipe that is vented straight out. Am I wrong on that? Is it easy to clean?
Bob IUser is Offline
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04 Mar 2015 11:13 PM
the HEARTLANDS seem to be unavailable right now; not sure if they stopped production or what. Ive been using them for several years; they're pretty neat. and there is a cover on the top that just lifts off to clean or whatever.
Bob Irving<br>RH Irving Homebuilders<br>Certified Passive House Consultant
LbearUser is Offline
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04 Mar 2015 11:27 PM
Posted By eljay on 04 Mar 2015 09:57 PM
Lbear, I contemplated that, but we couldn't find a reasonably priced ventless dryer and didn't want the moist air back in the house.

I think I will ask them tomorrow to fix it and run the pipe up to the attic and then a single out to the side wall. Regarding, the Heartland vent cover, how does one clean the lint out?
It seem that it angles upwards and once sealed against the inside pipe, it looks like it will be hard to clean out compared to a pipe that is vented straight out. Am I wrong on that? Is it easy to clean?

NO moisture is returned into the home with a ventless heat pump dryer. Actually, the opposite is true. It removes some heat and moisture FROM the air. Ambient air is dehumidified by the refrigerant coil, heat is generated by the condenser and a back up heating coil in the dryer, both recycled. Two phase change vapor-liquid-mixture to superheated-vapor evaporator.

Fact is that 90% of homeowners do NOT clean their dryer duct work. Stats show that 15,000 house fires start each year due to dryer vents.  Once you add any bends (45 degree angles) or add a long pipe, you add to the complexity and likelihood that lint gets clogged in the ducts and the likelihood that properly cleaning it out is difficult at best. Dryer vents need to be short and sweet. The shorter the better.
StuieUser is Offline
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05 Mar 2015 09:22 PM

If you look in your dryer manual it will say how many 90deg bends and how long your run can be.
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