Hey guys,

New to the forum.  I came across this a couple weeks ago, and so far have been reading posts.  I'm up to page 9 so far...lol 

After reading a few posts on finishing doors, windows, etc...I became curious regarding the overall width of walls.

For example, a typical 4 inch block is 9 inches wide, 6 inch block is 11 inches wide, etc.  When it comes to liveable space (floors above basement), what do most of you prefer as far as wall width is concerned?  I realize the thicker the wall, the more concrete you get (insulation being the same).  When it comes to windows and doors, do some of you prefer going with a narrower or wider block depending on the look you're trying to achieve?

For example, going with a wide block, and setting your windows in all the way, gives you the look of some Spanish style homes where the windows are recessed in maybe 6-12 inches from the finished wall.  However,  that does not give you much of a window sill (if you wanted one) on the inside.

Installing windows all the way to the outside (IMO, better for flashing and sealing), gives you a large interior window sill, and a complete different look from the outside.

Same thing with doors, doors swinging inwards, if not installed to the inside of the opening, cannot swing more than 90 degrees.  Same for exterior french doors installed to the outside of the wall.

I guess (for now), I'm just interested in people's opinions on what size walls they like, especially in regards to installing, and then finishing off windows and doors. 

Any thoughts?

James

I would suggest you keep reading thru the posts, however, I would never expect anyone to read thru all 80+ pages of threads!!

6" core is probably most popular, 4" typically is difficult to work with. That is a simplistic comment, and requires more info for you to understand the coorelation. By that I mean experienced installers "put up" with 4" when necessary, however, due to installation issues, I don't believe very many like them. Yes, 4" is still stronger than 2x wood frame, but there are other reasons to perhaps avoid them. But as you look at aesthetics, remember labor costs, both for install and after market products, then determine your needs to build a safe structure.

Many of the 4" and 6" parameters are in the IRC and you may find a lot of info there also.

As to an opinion...I use 6"/plus block only. I would use 4" for special circumstances only, such as a low retaining wall for landscaping.

Jim,

Thanks for the reply and yes I do intend to keep reading. However, no, I don't plan on reading 80 pages of posts. There's just not enough time in the day for that...ha ha

You commented regarding 4" blocks are typically more difficult to work with. My first thoughts are that it's because due to the smaller cavity, it's more difficult to get your hands in there...get the rebar in there and tied, get the pump hose and vibrator in there...get the concrete to consolidate, etc.. Am I close on this or were you referring to something completely different, such as ....hmm....well I'm not sure.

James

James,

I am of the same opinion as Jim. If I read your moniker right it looks like you are from "great state of CAlifornia" said with my best terminator impression.

If you are, then the 4" block may not be an option or at least it is an option fraught with headaches. In a seismically active zone when you reduce the thickness of concrete you will increase your amount of rebar thus narrowing your cavity making proper concrete placement very difficult. Don't get me wrong I do know of some usees for the 4" wall but it has been limited on the west coast.

As far as installing doors and windows this is more of a function of how you want your home to look and what the local area practices are. Here in the Pacific NW we flush mount most windows to the exterior of the buiding to reduce places for water to infiltrate our buildings. In the south you will see more mid mounted windows creating shade to help reduce the thermal gain through the windows. There are some methods to allow an inward swinging door to go past 90 degrees. If you look at the V-Buck site you will see an example of a buck that is chamfered 45 degrees. We have also made our bucked out spaces over sized and framed in the door. We then super insulate the openings with Icynene insulation.

ICF Contractor