Pea gravel is fine for up to 8" forms, above that I use 3/4" or a blend of both

DO NOT ATTACH the CMU's to the ICF unless your engineer tells you to, you want to waterproof the ICF 100%+ and this won't be 100% possible with the CMU, keep it away 1 - 1 1/2". If it must be joined, do it on the top course only...above grade...if the engineer accepts that.

Chris

Chris, and Ak: We have this scenario quite often. Once the ICF wall is stacked we place a vertical piece of peel and stick at but location from the footer to top of ICF. We then stack the garage lead walls with either ICF or dry-stack cmu to support garage footing at higher level. Then the walls and stem walls are poured and back-filled. As the masons stack the garage cmu they drill and dowel into the ICF threw the P&S, keeping in mind that this wall will have fill on both sides and doesn't need much for dowels. We then roll our dimple out on the cmu a foot or so and seal edges.

Just another option and I haven't seen one leek this way yet.

Dave

I like to look into the future and for the little extra cost maybe $150.00 I just use icf on the garage frost as well.

In Minnesota our clients get asked will you ever use this in the cold months to work on something, the answer is always yes so why not have an insulated foundation, and again the answer is yes!

I'm doing my entire garage with ICF, including the wall between the garage and kitchen. With R-15 garage doors it shouldn't take much heat to make it into a cozy shop, and even with no heat will keep the cars warm!

Actually the cars will keep the garage warm. Between my wife's 300 and my f350 on a 20* evening the vehicles raise the garage temp to almost 50* just from our drives home.

Dave