lkazanov2
 Basic Member
 Posts:177
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| 02 Dec 2008 08:17 PM |
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Guys,
Need some ideas...I have not spoken to the plumber or electrician yet. The main waste to septic will likely be 4". I am planning on 6" opening. What about main electrical conduit? What opening do you guys typically plan for a large residential home? Thanks.
Leonard
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 02 Dec 2008 09:40 PM |
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Too large is better than too small - can always foam a too-large opening to seal it after whatever service is passed through it.
Don't sweat small stuff like doorbell or exterior fixtures - 1" hammerdrill takes care of those after the pour.
You'll need to know some details of electric service to size openings - how many amps? I have 2 separate 4/0 feeds, each in its own 3" penetration
Don't forget big stuff such as dryer vent, range hood, bathroom vents, split HVAC system vents. Drilling those holes after concrete has set can run into some money. Any gas fired appliance (furnace, water heater) will need a good sized hole as well. |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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arkie6
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1453
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| 02 Dec 2008 10:19 PM |
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I would install a 4" SCHD 40 PVC pipe (4" ID) sleeve for the power so that you can run a 3" PVC conduit through it (~3.5" OD) if needed. I would install a separate 1.5" or 2.0" PVC sleeve for phone, cable, etc. (not recommended to run power and signal wires in same conduit/route). |
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lkazanov2
 Basic Member
 Posts:177
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| 02 Dec 2008 10:49 PM |
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Guys,
This is the advise I was looking for. I will certainly verify with the trades but this is a good start. Thank you. |
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dmaceld
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1465

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| 02 Dec 2008 11:57 PM |
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I did the same as you're planning for the sewer pipe. Plumbing code requires a sleeve for concrete penetration of plumbing lines.
As for the conduit, I figured out what size the conduit was going to be to go from the meter on the outside of the wall straight through to the panel box on the inside. Since conduit is OK for direct placement in concrete I put a section of the required size with a threaded adapter on each end right in the ICF block. No sleeve at all.
You might consider adding a few sleeves here and there for possible future use. Plug with foam and carefully record their location so you can find them under the siding and drywall if you ever need them.
Anything with a sealed combustion chamber such as a pellet stove will need a penetration for fresh air supply.
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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ICFconstruction
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1324

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| 10 Dec 2008 06:05 PM |
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Above grade make them plenty big. For the below grade I worry about water proofing around them, therfore would it be better to put in a piece of 4" PVC (at the right pitch) and the plumber can couple right to it? |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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