damproofing/waterproofing
Last Post 30 Jan 2009 08:49 PM by ICFconstruction. 14 Replies.
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BooneUser is Offline
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07 Jan 2009 08:33 PM
I have seen conventional concrete foundations sprayed with a turquoise colored substance called rubber wall or something like that.  Anyone familiar with this product and is it compatible with ICF construction?  Boone
TLC-ICFUser is Offline
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07 Jan 2009 09:38 PM
We use a mar-flex spray on waterproofing. With dimple board over that. Check it out.
BooneUser is Offline
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07 Jan 2009 09:44 PM
I'm a green rookie.  What is dimple board?  Thanks, Boone
OnTheLevelUser is Offline
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08 Jan 2009 08:25 AM
Posted By Boone on 01/07/2009 9:44 PM
I'm a green rookie.  What is dimple board?  Thanks, Boone


I would assume the member means a product like Platon: Foundation protector.  This is what my local supplier has.  I will also use, as suggested by others in my project thread '320 sq ft' , a peel and stick membrane.

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08 Jan 2009 08:44 AM
Peel and stick membrane is the way to go. Calls for a fast application, peel & stick, and nothing but a cutting knife and tape is required. Dimple isn't necessary over that, unless water is a big big issue on your location!
Cheers!
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08 Jan 2009 08:46 AM
PS : If a spray on appl. is used just make sure it's not petroleum based, for polysterene don't react to good in it's presence.
Cheers!
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
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08 Jan 2009 07:55 PM
Be redundant! It is cheap insurance, basement water sucks. Use a membrane and dimple board or drainage board. At a bare minimum put cheap EPS over your membrane to protect it from back-fill. The big advantage to peel and stick is the care that is taken when it is applied. Too many times I have seen the spray on guys do their job with little care to the end result, but if done correctly spray on would be fine.

Back-fill material and method has much to do with water proofing and drainage. The use of gravel or drainage rock with fill that is compacted every foot or so as back-filling takes place very little pressure is exerted on the wall; they will be not hydrostatic pressure and you won't have settlement issues.
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
Chris JohnsonUser is Offline
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09 Jan 2009 08:39 AM
Spray-it-blue was one I used to use, cost was what I will say is expensive, started using ICF Blue Stuff, again set up costs (spray rig) and product was somewhat pricey still, went back to peel and stick. Peel and stick has a proven track record, easy to find, easy to apply, no waiting for product to dry before applying secondary drainage protection.

Chris Johnson - Pro ICF
Napa, CA
Come for the wine, Stay for the ICF work
OnTheLevelUser is Offline
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09 Jan 2009 10:21 AM
Posted By ICFconstruction on 01/08/2009 7:55 PM
Be redundant! It is cheap insurance, basement water sucks. Use a membrane and dimple board or drainage board. At a bare minimum put cheap EPS over your membrane to protect it from back-fill. The big advantage to peel and stick is the care that is taken when it is applied. Too many times I have seen the spray on guys do their job with little care to the end result, but if done correctly spray on would be fine.

Back-fill material and method has much to do with water proofing and drainage. The use of gravel or drainage rock with fill that is compacted every foot or so as back-filling takes place very little pressure is exerted on the wall; they will be not hydrostatic pressure and you won't have settlement issues.


I had this in mind, how thick? I had considered using the seconds offered on occasion by Lowes for a far reduced price; a few voids or cracks being inconsequential.  

The compacting the back fill is something I wish I had done in the previous projects.  I had been warned about the potential issues with damaging the foundation.  Both times I had "setttlement issues", the last time less so, as essentially I hand filled the area... 
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
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28 Jan 2009 09:09 PM
Thick enough so whatever is in your fill will not damage your membrane.

If you pack every foot or so, you exert the least amount of pressure on your wall (1 foot). If the excavator pushes loose fill next to your wall it exerts little pressure......then. But latter when you get your first heavy rain it runs to the loose fill next to the house and exerts considerable hydrostatic pressure. Then there is still the settlement problems.

Has anyone had experience with Aqua Seal? I have a customer that is interested. This is what I told him, "You are going to do it yourself right? Then I would do peel and stick, then dimple board and protect it. I think I would only have the spray on done if I was hiring it done." Agree? Disagree?
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
Chris JohnsonUser is Offline
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28 Jan 2009 10:17 PM
I recommend spraying AquaSeal, I have used it before. And yes, cover it with a protection board/membrane.

Chris Johnson - Pro ICF
Napa, CA
Come for the wine, Stay for the ICF work
TB MACSUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2009 12:45 AM
We mostly use MARFEXS spray on application,followed up with platon membrane.The guys do a great job and give us a 25 year guarntee. The peel and stick membrane works good and can save some money compared to the spray on. But we are icf installers, not water proofers,I would much rather let someone waterproof, and let my crews do what they do best(icf walls).In my book its cheap insurance to make sure you have a good waterproofing job. In reality you are waterproofing the foam, not the concrete.Also the waterproofing is only as good as the french drain you install.Spray on is the way to go.

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TODD BIGGERSTAFF/ TB MACS ICF CONTRACTORS
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2009 08:17 PM
Macs, I am with you, leave it to them.

Chris, Do you spray it yourself? How thick is it? What kind of sprayer do you need? Any winter experience?
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
Chris JohnsonUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2009 08:42 PM
I haven't sprayed in 5 years, are you ready for this....I am not licensed to waterproof in California, it falls under painting believe it or not.

When we did spray, I used a Greco Mark V spray rig with a .34 tip (Big Hole). I think we sprayed to 40 mils, I found it easier to to do 2 coats as opposed to one, one could sag.

The winter sprays were tough, you had to watch the temperature before, during and after application as the product was water based.

Chris Johnson - Pro ICF
Napa, CA
Come for the wine, Stay for the ICF work
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2009 08:49 PM
MN is crazy too, we need a GC license to waterproof. And it doesn't get above freezing here until about July.

Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
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