Hey all, Just wanted to ask a quick question about those of you with ICF walls. We will be using a 3 inch brick veneer and I'm wondering how odd an overall 15 inch thick wall will look around the windows and doors? I'm aware of energy/safety benefits but I'm curious as to the aesthetics? Any of you feel like your window/door openings feel cavernous (too thick)?

The wall thickness is only a problem if you think its a problem.
Yes, a McMansion with with an interior trim package designed for 2x4 walls will look and feel a little odd with 15" thick walls. But English castles, PA stone houses, and pueble style adobe homes don't look or feel 'odd' because of their thick walls.
Remember, a house is a collection of parts that work together. Changing one part may require twicking of other parts to maintain the overall cohesiveness of the project.

Most manufacturers offer a specialty panel to lay brick and can be inserted anywhere. No need for thicker walls, usual thickness of wall for residential w/optimal cost efficiency is around 11'' to 12'' total (6'' core).
Cheers!

That's great info. Thanks! The house we are using is setup for 2x6 sticks anyway so that might work well. I just didn't really want to feel like I was looking out of a portal from my windows. Do you happen to have any pictures of these blocks in use? Thanks again!

Thagreen,
What type of panel are you referencing?
A typical 6" core ICF will be 11-12" thick overall, then a standard brick will add 3+" to the wall thickness, as Speed mentioned.
Speed,
I don't think you will find any solution that will allow the for the appearance of a 2x6 wall while using ICFs.

That's what I was mostly concerned about. I'm don't mind a thicker wall than a 2x6 but I don't really want a 15+ inch thick wall on a french country style home. Damn the bad luck. ;)


Thanks for the info guys.

Speed,
Maybe you should consider 6" SIPS for your above grade walls.
By the way, the original French country homes were sometimes built with stone walls that were 12+" thick. No brick though.

Wes ,
I was reffering to the brick ledge panel, and you're wright w/brick it'll give you 14-15''.
You could do a 45 angle at windows if you're worried about light or portal. Also you could go w/thinner core since you're adding brick ,it will give you same or better r-value. Good example of brick panel is on integraspec.com .

Speed,

Maybe these two pics will give you an idea of what a thick wall window would look like in your case. This is in my house, (coming close to completion, whew!!). The walls are 6" ICF, 11" total form thickness, about 12 1/2" total thickness counting drywall and Hardiplank siding. The windows are flange mounted to the outside of the ICF. The window glass surface is about 10" to 11" behind the wall surface. These are bedroom windows. The larger is 62" W x 60" H, the smaller 32" W x 60" H. I don't get any sense whatever of "tunnel" view even with the smaller window. One dining room and two living room windows are 6' x 6'. The deep jamb extension makes them look better, I think. The wide sill is very inviting to sit on or set plants, etc. on! I can post a pic of them after we unmask them after painting, if you want.

Here's a straight on shot of the smaller window.

These are great photos and are representative of what to expect in any ICF home. The addition of brick will not substantially change the appearance.
BTW,
very nice trim work.

Dmac, just curious, what did you use for your extension jambs? Poplar or pine?
Looks nice!!!!

Bunt

 

MDF!

dmaceld, that casework is beautiful! Doesn't look portalish at all. I've spent some time on the internet looking for an ICF sub but the couple I talked to didn't give me a good impression they had the confidence to do this right just wanted me to step back and write them a check for the whole house. I just need an experienced sub to stand the walls up and give some guidance. If anyone has one in the Oklahoma area, please let me know!

Thanks to all!

Dmac, No problem with your casement window crank clearing the sill when you open them? We will have casement windows in our home. Dave

Ok guys, an update. I finally found an ICF contractor that sub the walls/foundation and didn't sound like a used car salesman that didn't understand what he was selling. We are going to meet with them next week and see what they have to say. I'll keep everyone updated and maybe put together a build thread to answer questions for folks in the same boat we are.

dmaceld, my wife wanted me to ask what color you used on your walls! lol

MDF came from the local lumber yard from where I bought most all material, what I didn't buy at big orange or big blue! The finish carpenter who works for my builder/partner did the cutting and fitting. He cut the chamfer with a router mounted in a shaper table. Rips and cross cuts on my Bosch table and miter saws with good blades, not the most expensive, but good. After assembly and nailed in place Tom, the guy who's been working with me from day 1 on this project, primed all the raw edges and then sanded them using 220, then 320, open coat sandpaper. He sprayed the final finish in two coats, doing touch up sanding in between with 320 paper. The key to getting a smooth finish on MDF raw edge is sealing, or priming, the surface before sanding. All corners were caulked before painting. This answer your questions?

Thanks for all the compliments. It's been time consuming, and costing me a lot of labor hours by the hired help, but I'm really quite pleased with how it all looks.

Boy, there better not be!!!!! The jambs fit the windows the same as Andersen factory jambs do. They're just not quite as thick and are much deeper than factory jambs. The crank shaft is at 45° to the frame, and the handle is shaped to clear the sill. Don't know yet how much knuckle room there will be. I don't expect to open the windows much. Summer air around here is very dusty. I'll let the ERV bring in the fresh air, hopefully well filtered!