Waterproofing frost walls
Last Post 23 Jul 2010 09:57 PM by EliteConcrete. 9 Replies.
Printer Friendly
Sort:
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Author Messages
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:1323
Avatar

--
24 Jun 2009 12:13 PM
In my area of MN we have a minimum frost depth protection of 42". My company usually does not do the water proofing. The water proofing contractors around here do not water proof below the basement floor when there is a frost wall. Should I go all the way to the footing?
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
Baldwin2014User is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:123

--
24 Jun 2009 04:46 PM
Yes, take your waterproofing and start halfway up the side of your footing strip, over top of it and up the foundation wall about 6-10 inches above grade....
once the dirt settels cut off the excess so your left with only 2" of waterproofing above grade and your ready for your exterior finish...
if it is peel&stick your usuing (as opposed to liquid) make sure you install it in a vertical fashion... Overlap the pieces by 2" min.
if you apply the membrane horizontaly it might get pulled off and spread the seams when you backfill.

you owe me a lunch :)

ICFconstructionUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:1323
Avatar

--
24 Jun 2009 08:00 PM
If I do the waterproofing I will use peel & stick and dimple board. But why would I want to waterproof that part that is below the basement floor? I am just trying to confirm my opinion since nobody else water proofs a frost wall.
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
icfcontractorUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:277

--
25 Jun 2009 09:30 AM
Brad,

Our opinion is, the reason we waterproof our frost walls is to protect the foam from pests or water infiltration. Although I have never personally seen any pests in my ICF walls we do it as a good idea approach. I have heard anecdotal evidence here and from other sources that has lead us to this approach. As far as water, our opinion is the soil up against our foundations is a 100 percent humidity and eventually moisture can infiltrate the foam reducing your insulative properties of the foam.

ICF Contractor
jamesmacdonald1User is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:95

--
25 Jun 2009 06:55 PM
It isn't necessary. I think what you are describing is the same situation as we do with industrial buildings. There is a slab on grade and a 48" deep frost wall . We use the 8" Durisol wall and no waterproofing. I am sure the walls get very wet and even to some extent the soil under the slab near the perimeter, as moisture moves through the wall. There is no migration of moisture above.

In residential applications, the same applies. If the walls continue above grade, you need a capillary break so that water can't wick up the concrete through capillary suction.
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:1323
Avatar

--
25 Jun 2009 08:41 PM
A capillary break or anti wicking wall is not required by 2006 IRC, as far as I know, and that is what we use here in Minnesota. But I have been using house wrap to "form" the footings which should prevent wicking. Also I have been told that portland rich concrete (4000 psi ?) does not wick.

I think I will waterproof the frost wall, if given the opportunity.
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
jamesmacdonald1User is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:95

--
26 Jun 2009 06:36 AM
Better safe than sorry!
icfcontractorUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:277

--
27 Jun 2009 07:52 AM
Brad,

You are correct that a good concrete mix helps dramatically. I believe the ACI says that concrete that reaches 5000 psi and is properly consolidated is considered impervious to water. Around here we build concrete floats or "basements" under houseboats, floating bridges, and barges. Heck there is even a concrete boat race every year. One of the issues you will run into with just the cement approach is that of durability. How long will it continue to perform? Don't know because it depends on the conditions.

ICF Contractor
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:1323
Avatar

--
16 Jul 2010 06:37 AM
I was told by my material supplier to use cure and seal acrylic concrete sealer on my footings to prevent wicking. Has anyone heard of that?
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
Elite Concrete & Const. Inc.User is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:13

--
23 Jul 2010 09:57 PM
Cure and seal is styrenated. Styrene creates micro air holes allowing
the acrylic to breath so it doesnt turn white with all the moisture in
concrete while "curing". For this reason I don't think that advice
"holds water". ;-)
You are not authorized to post a reply.

Active Forums 4.1
Membership Membership: Latest New User Latest: hudson2000 New Today New Today: 0 New Yesterday New Yesterday: 2 User Count Overall: 34707
People Online People Online: Visitors Visitors: 90 Members Members: 0 Total Total: 90
Copyright 2011 by BuildCentral, Inc.   Terms Of Use  Privacy Statement