Looking for info about a product that, spaces Form-A-Drain footer system and holds first course of ICF.  Plastic product that also cradles the footer rebar.  I saw it advertised in Concrete Home magazine, but cant find any of my past issues to identify the product name. Help please

Here's some stuff for you:

http://www.fab-form.com/news/pr/fastfoot_mp_introduction.html

http://www.keyfootings.com/

http://www.440products.com/

Regards,

Baldwin

Thanks    The 440 Products item was exactly what I was looking for.  The only problem now is that the only have one size.   I need a width for 36" spread footers.    Thanks again this forum really works (rocks)

David, I did not check on the width limitations (if any) of 440. Sounds like they only have one size. However for what you are doing you might be able to modify or extend the center connetions of 440 or call them. Also, (as you may already know) you can go to any width e.g. 36" with NUDURA and perhaps some other blocks as well. If you need 36" that would be three 12" webs joined by 2 web connectors for 36" of concrete. if overall width (including foam) is 36" you can get very close with two 12" webs and one six inch web or two 12" webs and one 8" web. REgards.

The 440 product is a great idea but limited to footers 20" wide and 8" tall. It's designed to hold ICF up to 13.5" outside diameter. I don't know too much about how concrete pours but how does the concrete not come out of the sides of the footings when pouring concrete into the first ICF. Also won't you still have a cold weld farther up the wall instead of the joint at the footing?

Where are you building.

I am always looking for a better way, but I would have some concerns with the 440 proset.
1. the time and labor to keep the top of the block clean and free of damage.
2. raising your cold joint to above your concrete slab could invite water.
Jim

I don't see a benefit of doing the first course with the footing. It costs more, takes longer and you should be using a capillary break on top of your footing.
If you could do the lower level and eliminate a pour by using this method it would be worth while. Which we have done, the problem with that is the concrete weight and friction on the ICFs will drive them down into the footing. So if you do try this, pour the footing from the outside the ICFs and consolidate with very little concrete in the bottom course, or the concrete flowing through the ICFs will drag them down and your wall will be low.

We do mono pours all the time when I run a job. We do full height pours 8', 9' even walkout basement 13'4" high. First one can be a challenge but after that it's simple and saves a lot of time. The crew sets up the footing then starts to build the walls the same day. It talks about a half hour of pump time to pump the footings. It's a win, win if you do it right.

Please, share with us how you do it.

I developed a bar that spans the footing boards. I use 1x material. the barallows me to build the footing forms off site and trailer them to the job. On top of that there are 2 rails that hold the forms. The other part of the sytem that is different is the bracing. I modified a standard bracing system to work with my system. The bracing can be raised if need be to final level the walls. The pour is the important part. First a 3 slump then a normal 6.

That doesn't sound quicker and easier or less expensive.

I'd have to go with brad on this one. Setting the forms on a footing is quick and clean plus when pouring footers we all know that ,depending on soil type ,they do move a little. Not enough to compromise a build but with the walls on it would certainly throw off the square at the bottom.

To each his own. I"ve done it both ways and if you think that doing a seperate pour for the footing is less time consuming than pouring the footing and walls in one pour then keep right on.

I am open minded and always looking for a better way. My opinion was based off your description. How is it better to pour the walls with the footing? It sounds like a lot of extra work, maybe I am missing something. Where is the savings?

How do you finish the footing? We would like it smooth for water proofing. How would you keep water from wicking into the footing and wall?

One way is that I don,t spend time finishing the footing. I use dimpled membrane which needs a rough footing. If you look at their application recomendation they use stones on top of the footing to allow for weeping. As far as wicking. It will happen with a mono pour or a two step pour. You have concrete sitting on concrete water will still transfer from one to the other whether they are poured together or separately. The key for that is drainage . Another reason I use dimpled, is that we start the water proofing the foundaion as soon as we finish the pour. It's much more efficient when your on the job to stay and do someting else, than leave and come back to waterproofing. The longest pour I've done for a basement was 4 hours for a 128 yd pour. I also don't spend time putting rebar stubs in. We drop the full height rebar down into the footing from the top. No time spent cutting rebar stubs. I could go on like we panelize are walls on rainy days and put the together on site. We also put our footing forms together in up to 18' lengths on rainy days instead of working in the mud. These are just some of the time saving things that I do to try and make my job and time more efficient. In the comming weeks we will be panelizing up to 40' walls.

Fab-form provides the moisture barrier via the fabric. The bracket allows for level adjustment of the form after it is set in place, and the brackets come in several sizes and fit many different makes of form. I haven't done a monopour yet, but can't wait to try it.