Posted By mike597 on 20 Jun 2012 01:10 PM
  My thought here is the blocks either floated apart (up) from each other or some were not compressed fully into the one below and the small differences added up as the house was built and the second floor was finished.

Which block did you use?

A home, whether ICF or wood, should be square. With ICF, a qualified ICF conctractor will get the home true and square.

Posted By rvalue on 20 Jun 2012 08:18 PM
Mike;
Your expectations are not unreasonable, and your assessment is correct; the contractor is the primary problem. It does come down to who is doing the work, an he/she should insist on using a quality block.
Your contractor is correct that the outside of the wall is not typically braced. From what you have described, I suspect that the problems are not so much the spacing between strongbacks, but sloppy workmanship possibly coupled with a poor ICF block.
Since 2004, I have made about 130 ICF pours with 9 different block; 3 of which we will not use again. Some blocks definitely contribute to the various problems you described.
All top ICF pours must be lasered, even Nudura and Hobbs. We have made a custom of ripping each top block independently, then lasering the concrete during finishing operations.
I almost hate to bring it up, but I wonder if the lintel for the master bath window is sufficient? If he missed the window, he may have missed the reinforcement too.
I regret the experience you have had with ICF's, because I hear those stories all too often from the pump operators. If I, an an ICF contractor hear these horror stories, how many potential clients are scared away by similar stories by those who don't know that it isn't the construction method, it is the contractor?!
I would be very interested in learning what brand the block was.

I agree with your points. One bad ICF build does so much damage to ICF's reputation because "word of mouth" spreads faster than a wildfire.

Which 3 blocks would you NOT use again? If you don't want to post it publicly, send me a PM.

I started with a level footing, glued down the first course of block, then tied down and glued all of the corner blocks. I horizontally tied the first course and the top course. Fox makes a handy clip that makes this fast and easy. Everything simply stayed level, and didn't seem to compress or float when poured. My walls were braced on the inside only, and I used braces about every 64", and the pumper operator did comment on how well my walls were braced. Maybe I went overkill? Considering what's at stake, i don't think so, though. Hopefully, my main floor will go as well as the basement did.

Posted By rvalue on 20 Jun 2012 08:18 PM

I almost hate to bring it up, but I wonder if the lintel for the master bath window is sufficient? If he missed the window, he may have missed the reinforcement too.
I regret the experience you have had with ICF's, because I hear those stories all too often from the pump operators. If I, an an ICF contractor hear these horror stories, how many potential clients are scared away by similar stories by those who don't know that it isn't the construction method, it is the contractor?!

This was our concern as well- I worked directly with the carpenter on how we were going to remedy this and went as far as getting our truss engineer on site (Structural PE, figured he would know what he is looking at).   The location of the window was unique in being next to a "garden tub", where the tile goes up to the window and the ceiling is vaulted above (will add pics when I find one).  We decided to cut the remaining 14" above the window out, and replace with LVLs.  In total, we stacked 3 2"x12" LVLs above the window and had the concrete cutting guys cut a 12" shoulder on either side of the window for the lvls to sit on.  The structural engineer said the roof load only warranted 2 but since the material was there I said stack 3, he liked it and signed off.  This made our "fix" 6" thick, same as the concrete.  One thing I did learn was the township here REALLY likes any changes to be signed off on by a PE, that service alone from our lumber yard was worth it's weight in gold.  He also designed all of our floor trusses- something I would do absolutely do again.

I have pictures of the walls bulging the way I'm trying to describe, will get them posted when I get home.

I was excited. I bacame stressed and frustrated after start.
My worst nightmare is leveling. It takes to much time.
I have Bosch 3 plane laser. It is not easy to use it with sun.
But I got exact square with a good leveled forms.
There is another problem with sun.
The heat in inside is incredibly high when forms are empty.
The heat is more resistable after pouring concrete.
This week I will install metal pans for floor.
I dont know what amount of vitamin D I will get.

But it is still fun...

There is a fly in my constraction side.
It is leaving its eggs inside the holes left form bracing.
Then It is sealing the holes with something.
I called this icf fly.
It is exiting to watch.
if this turns to a problem then I will be still happy.

Yes, it is hot inside those forms, isn't it? We hit a record 107 degrees last week; I have no idea what it was inside the open basement. I'm building my floor deck now- can't wait to get it covered.

Maybe he's leaving ash

The blocks used say "Build Block" on them.  I know this is very late in the game  to be asking this (so late in fact the game is over), but is this a common problem with this brand of block or was my installer just incompetent?

Posted By mike597 on 12 Jul 2012 11:57 AM
The blocks used say "Build Block" on them.  I know this is very late in the game  to be asking this (so late in fact the game is over), but is this a common problem with this brand of block or was my installer just incompetent?

Is what a common problem? Sorry, but I'd really rather not wade back through seven pages of discussion to try to figure out what you're referring to.