Next week I'll be covering up my walls with sheetrock. 

I've got all my outlets and switches cut-in, tapconed, and all of my wiring router grooves filled with spray foam.
I've got my alarm system wiring run to my windows and doors. 
I've spray foamed any gaps in the forms.

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to detail around the window bucks for the drywall returns.  I'm thinking of ripping 1x4s in half and trimming the inside edge of the window buck to match the window edge, minus the thickness of the drywall.  This will require shimming here and there, but then there will be something to run the rotobit against. 

Anything I missed?  Or suggestions before I cover it all up?

TIA, Sean

Posted By jeepster on 08 Mar 2012 09:28 PM
Next week I'll be covering up my walls with sheetrock. 

I've got all my outlets and switches cut-in, tapconed, and all of my wiring router grooves filled with spray foam.
I've got my alarm system wiring run to my windows and doors. 
I've spray foamed any gaps in the forms.

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to detail around the window bucks for the drywall returns.  I'm thinking of ripping 1x4s in half and trimming the inside edge of the window buck to match the window edge, minus the thickness of the drywall.  This will require shimming here and there, but then there will be something to run the rotobit against. 

Anything I missed?  Or suggestions before I cover it all up?

TIA, Sean

First off, do you have any pics of this project? We/I would love to see them!

Did you leave holes for the dryer, kitchen vent, ERV, etc?

Make sure you draw/sketch a diagram of where all the wiring runs are in the walls. You just never know if and when you might need that.

Rather than ripping down lumber and shimming to match the returns in the window (this can be very tedious if the bucks are cupped/warped/not perfectly square), you can use a light gauge metal angle to support your drywall. Basically it is screwed to the interior face of the buck, with the adjacent side of the angle facing inside the jamb. Square out from the return in the window and avoid any shimming. If you are placing anything heavy on the base, however, you may want to shim for some extra strength below the gyprock.

If you have any areas where someone might want to place a grab bar, it would be good to block those out against the concrete core now. I used glue and tapcons to attach some blocks of LVL material, with a piece of pressure treated plywood to shim the block out to the ICF face. Worked great in some bath and shower areas. You might not need them now, but you are obviously ( by using ICF's ), building with the long view in mind. And you just never know when someone might need a little help due to a broken ankle !!! Been there....!

Thanks guys, but I already have the sheetrock up. I ended up ripping 2x to create shims for the windows. Most took between a 3/4" and 1" thick rip, then I shimmed them as necessary to make the reveal around the window even. I was able to cut 3/4 xps to stuff between the rips. It worked well, but, like ICFBdr said, it was time consuming and tedious. I think that metal angle idea is good, but I'd still have to do something at the window edge.

David, I did put a bunch of blocks in the walls. Hopefully they'll be in the right spots!

Lbear, I did put PVC in the foam for exterior outlets, septic power, exterior lights, water hydrants, and the ERV. I did, however, forget to put PVC for my dryer outlets and a fresh air inlet for the fireplace I'll need to rent a core drill and make these.

Posted By jeepster on 09 May 2012 08:42 PM
I did, however, forget to put PVC for my dryer outlets and a fresh air inlet for the fireplace I'll need to rent a core drill and make these.

Not the fastest way, but a hammer drill with masonry bit will work. When I had to punch a 3" or 4" hole I forgot to put in before the pour I took my Bosch hammer drill with a 12" long 1/2" bit and drilled a series of holes in a circle. Didn't really take too long as the concrete was only a few days old and a whole lot cheaper than renting a core drill. Put the PVC sleeve in and foamed around it.