Hi everyone- I'm new here and have been reading a bunch of the threads & forums. I'm currently considering a new project that may use ICF. It would be a bungalow with a full basement. If I went with ICF, it would seem that my follow up costs to finish the basement and main floor would be reduced quite a bit vs traditional poured foundation & stick frame, at least as far as interior framing, insulation and vapour barrier etc. on the perimeter walls. My question is how much approx would this save me per square ft of wall, vs traditional const. in Southern ON? Thanks in advance

On overall cost?, probably be a wash because of the added expense associated with building with ICF. I just finished (almost) my cottage, ICF to the roof, the time savings of not having to build interior walls, insulate, vapour barrier was worth it. Plus the added benefit of tighter house, more sound proof. I built NE of Peterborough. If you would like to see my build go here...
http://kasshabog.blogspot.ca/

Stuie - very nice house! ICE roof for you way more expensive than traditional truss framed roof?

Oh sorry, I meant that to mean ICF to the roof trusses, it's just traditional roof trusses.

When executed by a competent crew it can save a lot of time. On projects where "time is money" that can tip the balance.

On average ICF foundations are not a huge money saver, and if done by hacks it can even be a cost adder.

I guess what I'm looking for is the actual $$ per-foot of wall space cost saving when doing ICF vs Traditional. I'm aware that ICF costs more up front, but offers some other savings - one of them being less additional cost to finish out a basement. I can easily figure out the cost of the ICF walls themselves. I'm just not sure how much it costs per foot to install framing, VB, and insulation in a traditional poured foundation. When I have that number, I can get a better idea for the cost/benefit analysis.

The costs for insulating the foundation by other means is highly dependent upon exactly what you are putting there, and your local labor rates. There is no magic per-square foot number for built-up foundation insulation that would be even within 50% of the potential variation.

To insulate with fiber materials on the interior without creating a potential mold farm usually involves putting some amount of EPS or foil-faced polyiso between the framed out wall and concrete, and NO interior side vapor barrier. The amount of foam-R required for dew point control varies with climate.

Im in Southwestern Ontario as per the original post. Don't need the exact cost, but a good working idea of basement finishing costs; 8ft tall walls- Framing, 6mil VB and R19 insulation, probably Roxul....

Approx assuming $5/2x6 and $41/bag of R22 covers 40sqft $32.50 for lumber + a bag of insulation would be $73.50/40 sq ft or $1.84/sq ft. not including tax, vapour barrier, labour and not near as good R value when finished. Since you are in Ontario as I am why not private pm me and you could phone me and I could possibly answer some of your questions.
Stuart Day
Oshawa ON

I don't think you want a vapor barrier on your basement wall.

2" eps foam and 2x4 framing around $15 lf installed and framed. As a bonus, that wall would be nice and flat and easy to wire and plumb and it would reach your floor joists for a nice transition to a drywalled ceiling, or if you went suspended ceiling the angle would be easier to mount, drywallers will like you more, AND you could mount a flatscreen to the wall if you wanted...without using a hammer drill.

If you are going to finish your basement it really is a no-brainer to use ICF, it is usually less than 15.00 p/sqft, a poured concrete wall is approx 6-7 p/sqft and to finish it out, studs, insulation etc you will spend another 5-7 p/sqft so you really end up spending as much money with a strip form wall and a CMU(block)wall would be even more. There are several systems out there that retro-fit to a poured concrete wall, i.e. Insul-Fast and Integraspec both have panels 2.5" usually that can be fastened to the concrete interior that also have furring strips imbedded in the foam, you will need a vapor barrier since concrete is like a candle stick for water, not necessary with ICF, it is a vapor and air barrier, plus the walls are extremely insulated, the basements are truly LIVING spaces, no longer a basement, no mold no mildew and no dehumidifiers!
i have actually lived in two now and the only regrets i have heard from my customers - is that they did not go all the way to the roof plates and we have set SIPs panels on ICF basements as well.
good luck hope it helps!

I'm not sure if I should start a new thread here or post with this one...
I'm convinced that an ICF basement makes very good sense both in ease, efficiency and relative similar cost.
I am in the drawing stage for a 2015 spring build in south-western MA. I intend to build an 1800 sqft finished ICF basement (not a walkout) with a radiant heated floor slab and a 2x6 frame one story with hip roof. (considering a double 2x4 wall too) The design is a basic rectangle. I am having problem with my framing measurements because of the ICF block transition to the framing (plan to use build-block).
I'm not sure how I will be anchoring the sill plate. Direct to the center of the block with a seal and framing from there up or is there a different and preferred formula for this?
I have built several homes but only in warm climates with relatively easy, shallow foundation and a poured slab. I'm on a 90 degree learning curve for an ICF foundation/basement with a wood structure above. I'm hoping it will be similar to building a concrete block or poured foundation wall basement with frame above construction. Any help would be appreciated.

Pump the brakes Bill Naegelli, that was $15 per linear foot of 8' wall, not per square foot. Per square foot is $1.88.

You really need to get those costs from the local trades. Nobody here can answer that question.

QuietGiant- Why not ICF all the way up? It makes a really tight, quiet, strong house. I'm building an all-ICF house, but the garage is stick framed. Attaching the siding, the garage feels downright flimsy.