Waterproofing plan and questions
Last Post 19 Oct 2014 12:39 PM by arkie6. 3 Replies.
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timberwolf78User is Offline
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18 Oct 2014 08:35 AM
I am ready to waterproof my buildblock foundation. I will be using hydroseal 3000 peel and stick with platon over it and would appreciate a critique of my plan. I am planning on applying the hydroseal right up to the grade and extend all the way down to the outside edge of the footings and then fold it down a couple inches( I believe forum member arkie has done that). I will do the hydroseal recommended corner and wall footing intersection reinforcements. Before I apply it to the footings, I will put dryseal foundation coating( just on top of the footings) which will help the membrane stick to the concrete. I will do the dimpled membrane over hydroseal terminating at 6 inch below grade. I have a few questions as well: I will be using sealbest mastic on the top edge of the dryseal. How do I use it? Do I just apply a bead and use a putty knife to spread it? I havent found much on the application detail. How do I handle corners and wall footing intersection as far as platon is concerned? Also how far down does it go on the footings? I used tyvek to pour the footings. How can I incorporate that with this plan? Please excuse my spelling errors as I am using a small touchscreen.
arkie6User is Offline
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18 Oct 2014 11:09 PM
I used a rubber glove (like for washing dishes, but a heavy duty version) to spread the mastic over all seams and terminations of the waterproofing membrane. I was using a 3 gallon bucket of TAMKO waterproofing mastic, so it was easy to just reach in with the gloved hand and get a hand full. When the job was done, I just disposed of the rubber glove. If you have caulk tubes of mastic, you can lay a heavy bead down along the edges of the membrane and work it in with the rubber gloved hand. If you are buying the mastic in tubes, it will cost a lot more than if you can get it in a bucket.

I used fastfoot fabric for my footings. I cut it off flush with the top edge of the footing and then used some gorilla brand duct tape to hold it in place. Then when I did the waterproofing I spread the mastic over the top of the concrete footing and onto the edge of the fastfoot fabric. Then the waterproofing membrane was wrapped over the top of the footing and down onto the fastfoot fabric a couple of inches.

I installed my waterproofing membrane protection and drainage mat (Polyguard LowFlow) down to the top of the footing. Then I put about a foot or so of clean gravel on top of my footing and enveloped my 4" perforated pipe drain tile that was below the top edge of my footing with the gravel. I then put a layer of geotextile fabric on top of the gravel before backfilling with river sand/loam.
timberwolf78User is Offline
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19 Oct 2014 08:55 AM
Thanks arkie that's extremely helpful.

Couple questions -

where did you terminate both the membrane and the drainage mat? At/above/below grade?

Did you backfil all the way right away or left a little for final grading?

If I am reading it correctly, you stopped the drainage mat right at the wall footing intersection. Why didn' t you extend it out on the footing like you did with the membrane?
arkie6User is Offline
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19 Oct 2014 12:39 PM
Posted By timberwolf78 on 19 Oct 2014 08:55 AM
Thanks arkie that's extremely helpful.

Couple questions -

where did you terminate both the membrane and the drainage mat? At/above/below grade?

Did you backfil all the way right away or left a little for final grading?

If I am reading it correctly, you stopped the drainage mat right at the wall footing intersection. Why didn' t you extend it out on the footing like you did with the membrane?

I extended my waterproofing membrane and drainage mat approximately 1 foot above grade.  I have brick veneer with a 1" air gap.  How you do the waterproofing termination depends in part on what type of exterior you intend to install.  With brick it is fairly simple - just extend a little past grade because it will be in the gap between the wall and brick.  If you are installing siding, you will have to determine how you will handle the gap between the siding and grade.

I have 6" cement block / CMU on my footing directly on top of the waterproofing membrane and butted up against the drainage mat that serves as a brick ledge.  There was no need to install anything between the waterproofing membrane and block.    The waterproofing drain board is generally pretty stiff and not easily turned 90 degrees at the footing.  If you want to cover the footing with this material, you will likely have to cut a strip the width of your exposed footing and lay it down separate from the wall.
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