<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false EN-GB X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:1; mso-generic-font-family:roman; mso-font-format:other; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:0 0 0 0 0 0;} @font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-1610611985 1073750139 0 0 159 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-unhide:no; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; margin-top:0cm; margin-right:0cm; margin-bottom:10.0pt; margin-left:0cm; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi; mso-fareast-language:EN-US;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; mso-default-props:yes; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi; mso-fareast-language:EN-US;} .MsoPapDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; margin-bottom:10.0pt; line-height:115%;} @page Section1 {size:595.3pt 841.9pt; margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt; mso-header-margin:35.4pt; mso-footer-margin:35.4pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> <!--[if gte mso 10]> Hi, we are at the planning stage of a sip home & planning for all the services TV/Phone/power/lighting & so on. There will be a very large amount of cabling throughout the house & wondered if at this stage we would be better off battening all the interior walls with 2x1 treated wood for a service areas. We realize that we would have to make larger door framing & things like this. But our main concern is normally the plasterboard/Gyprock is fixed direct to the sip panel. Would we have any vapour problems if we put the plasterboard/Gyprock on the 2x1 batten leaving a 1” air gap between the 2 for cable runs.

Hope you can help. (Thanks)

Chris.

Chris;

You are on the right track.... but first - treated  furring is not neccessary as it does not come in contact with concrete or weather.
1-1/2 steel hi-hat is the better choice @ 24" oc, the less contact with the SIP, the less sound transmission and a 1-1/2" space allows for use of a 4 x 4 x 1-1/2" box w/plaster ring and no skin cutting, no vapor problems and you would need custom size jambs regardless

<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false EN-GB X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:1; mso-generic-font-family:roman; mso-font-format:other; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:0 0 0 0 0 0;} @font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-1610611985 1073750139 0 0 159 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-unhide:no; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; margin-top:0cm; margin-right:0cm; margin-bottom:10.0pt; margin-left:0cm; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi; mso-fareast-language:EN-US;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; mso-default-props:yes; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi; mso-fareast-language:EN-US;} .MsoPapDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; margin-bottom:10.0pt; line-height:115%;} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> <!--[if gte mso 10]> Hi Chris,
             the steel hi-hat looks like a very good alternative to what we were thinking of. Must admit, i didn’t think of using steel stud work,  it tends to be used more on the commercial side in the UK, but is readily available.  You have also helped with another problem about the concerns about sound insulation of some sort (or getting an air gap if pos) this system has a few new ideas & advantages on solving this problem.
SIP's is also a new,ish thing on this side of the pond & getting straight honest answers is hard with the limited use over here. But it looks like a good product & it seems most of the down sides is to do with the installers rather than the product its self. But this is the same the world over. :)

Cheers.

Chris.

a better picture

collectors;

the sound bar is what we call an RC-1 channel, they are effective

fire code with channels ? . My son is an elect contractor and when he finished his basement with steel studs. He had to pack fiberglass insulstion or 5/8 sheetrock to prevent any air movement at the ceiling and every 10 ft of wall had to have an air flow barrier .. In commercial projects I have woprked on we used to have to install air flow barriers above suspended ceilings 5/ 8 rock, fire putty, packed fiberglass, etc.

Tim;

Its called draft stopping and we accomplish with a horizontal channel, as shown in photo. It also serves as a continuous nailer for drywall

Chris Kavala, the important question is where did you get the Krispy-Kreme green panels? :)

No seriously, why couldn't one place all the hat channels horizontally? Seems like it would add to the panel strength. I know the electricals are usually run down from the attic, but couldn't they go horizontally, too?

Jelly;
I was waiting for someone to ask about that , those panels were aluminum "SIPbLOC" panels covered with a green tinted plastic protection film. Since they were getting covered up any way we just left them on the interior side of the panels.

The hat cannels can be run in either direction, our testing is done with no furring attached , but anything you add would further strengthen the panels.
Vertical works the best for our drywall installer, otherwise you would need to stand the dywall.

Just have the SIP's manufacturer add more electrical chases in the foam. We are doing this on a pretty regular basis now with all the new smart homes technlogy

I am also thinking of furring the inside of a SIP panel house for ease of mechanical insulation, and to avoid cutting into the panel for the electrical boxes. My concern is that the air space between the drywall and the SIP panel could be an area for convective air currents to form and move heat out of the interior space. Any thoughts on that?

Tobias;

If you are using SIP walls and Roof panels, by furring out you will eliminate most areas for air infiltration . We have never felt any air movment in the dead air space after constrcution

Tobias,

I agree with Chris. If you apply the furring correctly, there will be no significant air movement in the space between the panel and the drywall. On tall walls with vertical furring, horizontal furring is required at certain intervals for draft/firestopping anyway. Furring mostly comes in 8ft/10ft lengths, so if it is a concern throw in a horizontal between vertical lengths to compartmentalize the air spaces if you have tall walls.

Once you have run all your wires/cables, couldn't you just stuff in some fiberglass (or cotton, whatever) insulation to stop/reduce air currents? It would also add a tad of R to the wall.

forgot to click "email me".

Chris, how do you avoid code issues with the electrical wiring? The NEC requires the wire to be no less than 1 1/4" behind the edge of the framing member or be mechanically protected. Seems to me a 1 1/2" high hat would be very marginal at best.

dmaceld;
I believe they view the space as a raceway , which has a different set of rules.

Whats worse is the millions of homes built in Florida with a 3/4" furring strip over block

What if you just simply built out the wall with 1/2" blue board and cut a horizontal channel in that to run your wiring It would eliminate the problem of convection air currents between the sheetrock and sip, and would also give you a slightly better R to boot.

there is no air movement in a "dead" air space! hence the word dead