Soundproofing SIPs against Roosters
Last Post 09 Apr 2010 05:47 AM by lambabbey. 41 Replies.
Author Messages
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
04 Apr 2010 03:56 PM
I've read through a number of threads on here about the challenges of soundproofing a home made with SIPs.   One thing I've read again and again is that it makes a big difference as to the frequency of the sound you're trying to eliminate.    I'm going to be building a small cottage (1,050 sq ft) using SIPs from grade on up as well as for the roof.   I know this sounds like overkill, but I'll be going with 10 1/4" XPS SIPs both for the walls and roof, mostly for the extra insulation.   I'll also be using triple-glazed windows, both for thermal efficiency as well as a better sound barrier.    The cottage to be built is being constructed at an orchard / farm where there will be a large open-air chicken coop about 200 feet away with a decent number of roosters.   I'd like to come up with a solution for soundproofing two rooms on the second floor of this cottage (office and bedroom) from the inevitable crowing in the middle of the night. 

How would you folks go about soundproofing these rooms to keep out this particular type of noise?  Would a layer of a product like QuietRock 525 onto furring strips inside these rooms accomplish much?  The exterior of the cottage will be fiber cement shakes mounted over a 3/8" rainscreen product called Home Slicker, to provide draining and ventilation.  Should I consider going with furring strips instead beneath the fiber cement shakes to create more of an air break?  What other options should I be considering for soundproofing these two rooms?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.


John



John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
04 Apr 2010 05:48 PM
John;

the furring on one side is sufficient for sound transmission break, as lon as you are using 10-1/4", you could use a double 2x4 plate top & bottom for a sound and thermal break
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
04 Apr 2010 07:54 PM
Chris:

I appreciate the response.

In a house this tiny though, losing 7" both in the length and width of a room is a big deal. I have no doubts your suggestion would work, but I'm hoping there's another way of solving the problem without resorting to 3 1/2" wall cavities in all four sides of these rooms.

How much of an air cavity is necessary for a sound transmission break?


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
04 Apr 2010 08:39 PM
John;

not what I meant .... if your walls are 9-1/4" of foam,  instead of using one 2x10 plate,  use 2 - 2x 4s with 2-1/4" break in middle for thermal and noise isolation
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
04 Apr 2010 08:54 PM
Posted By cmkavala on 04 Apr 2010 08:39 PM
John;

not what I meant .... if your walls are 9-1/4" of foam,  instead of using one 2x10 plate,  use 2 - 2x 4s with 2-1/4" break in middle for thermal and noise isolation

Chris:

You lost me when you got to the 'plate' part.    I'm just the homeowner here, not the builder.    Are you suggesting scrapping the SIPs altogether when it comes to the construction of these two rooms?     If so, it sounds like a lot of extra expense from a design and labor standpoint, not to mention an added headache for the builder.   But I may not be following you here.    Dumb-this-down for me, will ya?    I don't want to sacrifice ANY of the R-value in these walls.

Out of curiosity, if I used 2x2s as furring strips behind some QuietRock 525 on the inside of these two rooms (giving me just a 1 1/2" deep air cavity) do you think that would be enough of a sound break to do the job?


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
firefoxUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:34

--
04 Apr 2010 10:26 PM
The plate is what the wall sits on. Take two 2x4's lay them down on the foundation or slab.
they lay flat, not on edge. Leave a gap between them  for both an insulation thermal break and a sound break.
The 2x4s are secured to the foundation and the wall is then secured to the 2x4s with appropriate fasteners.
Bruce
TorbenUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:216

--
04 Apr 2010 10:30 PM

The top and bottom plates don't add to the wall width and are just the dimensional lumber on the top and bottom of the sip wall. 
I would say there are 3 main rules with noise isolation:
(1) You are always limited to your weakest link (i.e. thick room walls don't matter if you have an air gap under the door).
(2) The greater the combined density & thickness of the weakest link the greater the noise dampening (sound absorbtion).
(3) Sound also travels by vibrating assemblies.  Therefore creating dead airspace in assemblies helps divert sounds from traveling through the assembly.

The sound absorbtion mats and quiet rock drywall address rule 2 (and are relatively expensive).  What Chris was referring to on the top and bottom plates addresses rule 3 (and would have almost no cost difference other than labor).  Instead of one piece of dimensional lumber ("plate") the width of the SIP you have two pieces of lumber with an air gap in betwen them.  The plates are probably the weakest link (for sound) next to your windows and doors.

Of course I'm suprised to not have heard anyone suggest the most effective sound control method - A box of ammo and a 22.  But then I would have to add rule (4) source control.

AltonUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:2157

--
04 Apr 2010 10:54 PM

John,

Do you know about this product:  www.acoustiblok.com 

Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
04 Apr 2010 10:55 PM
Thanks, guys. It makes perfect sense now. I appreciate you spelling it out. I just wasn't aware that a simple sound break in just the plate would potentially have such an affect on deadening sound for the entire wall. Given that I would have virtually no insulation at top and bottom of each wall where the plates are located, would I not be creating a thermal sinkhole in place of sound problems? I'm curious how the R-value for the wall would drop with this cold pocket of air running the circumference of the top and bottom of each room. Any ideas?

Torben, as for the .22 and the ammo, I need the roosters for breeding the hens (I've got a half dozen breeds), otherwise the roosters would be long gone.


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
04 Apr 2010 11:01 PM
Alton:

I've been to their site before, but assumed the product would only work in a stud wall.

How would you envision this technology to work with SIP construction without having to lose valuable room space to sound breaks on each side of the Acoustiblok?



John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
greentreeUser is Offline
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Send Private Message
Posts:587

--
05 Apr 2010 08:17 AM
Using hat channel on the walls then hanging drywall is effective, as is mass loaded vinyl. Soundproof assemblies are thicker; so if you want to truly accomplish that you are going to lose some footprint.
wesUser is Offline
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Send Private Message
Posts:810

--
05 Apr 2010 09:15 AM
OK John,
I can't resist.
Having grown up on a farm with the chicken pen only a hundred feet from my bedroom, I can't remember the roosters crowing in the middle of the night. Ours always started about daybreak. In fact, my dad said that a rooster who crowed in the dark was crazy and should immediately be removed from the breeding population and become the main course for dinner.
Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected]
BigrigUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:92

--
05 Apr 2010 11:38 AM
Posted By lambabbey on 04 Apr 2010 10:55 PM
Thanks, guys. It makes perfect sense now. I appreciate you spelling it out. I just wasn't aware that a simple sound break in just the plate would potentially have such an affect on deadening sound for the entire wall. Given that I would have virtually no insulation at top and bottom of each wall where the plates are located, would I not be creating a thermal sinkhole in place of sound problems? I'm curious how the R-value for the wall would drop with this cold pocket of air running the circumference of the top and bottom of each room. Any ideas?

John


Assuming you caulk each plate top and side I wouldn't think you will loose any R-value. In fact you are providing an effective thermal break from interior to exterior, and may pick up R-value (simular to the thermal break detailed out for metal SIP panels).

Nathan
firefoxUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:34

--
05 Apr 2010 01:49 PM
I was wondering if putting up a sound absorbing wall at the chicken coop might be
a lot simpler and cheaper.  You will have to do the research on how to do it though.
Might be as simple as a straw bale wall with a waterproof covering.
Bruce
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
05 Apr 2010 01:58 PM
Bruce:

I like how you think. Unfortunately, the chicken coop (to be built at the same time as the cottage) will be an open-air structure with the good part of the front wall completely open to the elements except for some screening.

It would be tough to soundproof an open wall


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
firefoxUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:34

--
05 Apr 2010 02:11 PM
I was thinking along the lines of the walls they put up next to freeways,
but not so elaborate. ie a wall between the coop and the cottage that would
absorb the bulk of the noise, not all of it.
This would make it cheaper to design the soundproofing in the house.
Bruce
jonrUser is Offline
Senior Member
Senior Member
Send Private Message
Posts:5341

--
05 Apr 2010 04:54 PM
Dogs have anti-bark collars - don't they have crow collars for roosters?
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
05 Apr 2010 05:16 PM
Thats on a different forum for mute roosters;

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums...30470.html

Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
06 Apr 2010 08:36 AM
I've spoken with a number of soundproofing companies and am finding that there's really little that can be done with SIP construction to noticeably increase soundproofing short of adding a stud wall inside the SIPs and losing a chunk of valuable space. I'm being told that hat channels, products like QuietRock and Supress--even the air break in the plates beneath the SIPs--won't accomplish much unless done in conjunction with an inner stud wall that's at least 3 1/2" inches deep, ideally more. This wall can be filled with batt insulation between the studs, but the cavity is critical to making a SIP home noticeably more soundproof.

If this is true, it's really quite a downside to SIP construction.


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
greentreeUser is Offline
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Send Private Message
Posts:587

--
06 Apr 2010 09:23 AM
There are 3 methods to reducing sound transmission 1. provide cavity absorbtion 2.increase mass and 3.break the sound vibration path.

These are ratings for interior walls, but a standard 2x4 with 1/2 gyp on both sides is STC 34. Add insualtion and it's STC 39. Double the gypsum (2 layers both sides) and its STC 45. Now install hat channel on 1 side and you have STC 56. At STC 30 loud speech can be understood, STC 42 loud speech is audible as a murmur, STC 50 loud speech is not audible. And obviously windows, doors and other penatrations dillute the rating.

These ideas can be applied to any wall, I would look into mass loaded vinyl to keep it thin.
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
06 Apr 2010 09:49 AM
Posted By greentree on 06 Apr 2010 09:23 AM
There are 3 methods to reducing sound transmission 1. provide cavity absorbtion 2.increase mass and 3.break the sound vibration path.

These are ratings for interior walls, but a standard 2x4 with 1/2 gyp on both sides is STC 34. Add insualtion and it's STC 39. Double the gypsum (2 layers both sides) and its STC 45. Now install hat channel on 1 side and you have STC 56. At STC 30 loud speech can be understood, STC 42 loud speech is audible as a murmur, STC 50 loud speech is not audible. And obviously windows, doors and other penatrations dillute the rating.

These ideas can be applied to any wall, I would look into mass loaded vinyl to keep it thin.

My point is that all of these options require an additional stud wall to be built on the interior of the SIPs.    This would result in the rooms shrinking at least 3 1/2" on each of the four sides.   It's too much to lose in a house as small as I'm building.

I was hoping to be able to come up with a soundproofing solution that sacrificed no more than an additional 1 1/2" of space on each wall.      Even mass loaded vinyl need to be installed across studs to be effective.


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
06 Apr 2010 10:10 AM
I think the most viable solution would be go to with 6 1/2" polyurethane SIPs for the outer wall for the greatest R-value per inch, and then add a 3 1/2" stud wall on the inside filled with an insulation product like this: http://building.dow.com/na/en/safetouch/products/index.htm . I'd still get the R-value I'm after for the walls (R-53), and the STC as well (60+), as long as I used a product like QuietRock on the inner stud wall. I'm just not sure how outrageous this solution would be in cost, and I'm also a bit concerned about the horror stories I've heard regarding polyurethane SIPs.

John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
06 Apr 2010 10:16 AM
My current SIP home is 4" with 1-1/2" steel hi-hat/ drywall, I feel that it is slightly quieter than a conventionally framed 2x4 wall. In my experience with well over 100 SIPs buildings, there is a drastic improvement when going to 6" with hi-hat /drywall.
And is what my next personal home will be , if someone is ultra sensitiveto sounds when sleeping the cheap fix is a 50 cent pair of ear plugs
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM
Chris:

You and I apparently have different standards.   

For me, it's not about being ultra-sensitive to sounds. It's about building the best home possible, at a reasonable cost, given the technology that exists. 

When I have guests visit, I'm not going to expect them to wear earplugs.  



It's one thing adjusting to a bad situation; it's another altogether intentionally building one.



John

John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
TorbenUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:216

--
06 Apr 2010 12:03 PM
Most of the problems I've heard about sound transmission through SIPs has been more low frequency (pitch) sounds like highway noise (or a Harley motorcycle).  The low frequencies are more able to vibrate assemblies.  I would assume in these cases the SIP panel then operates as a drum.  For low frequencies it appears additional mass is the best solution.  High frequency sounds are much easier to attenuate since they are don't travel through assemblies as and they are more directional than low frequency sounds.  If you think about a home theatre system it doesn't matter where you place the subwoofer since the sound permeates the room no matter where it is placed (and that is what wakes up the kids).  However it makes a huge difference how you place (the higher pitch) satelite speakers.  If they are two far from the listener or are off axis the audible volume drops substantially.  The audible sound range for people is about 20Hz to 20KHz.  The following is the only article I found regarding fowl frequency (I would guess you are somewhere around 0.5-1KHz).

http://rms1.agsearch.agropedia.affrc.go.jp/contents/JASI/pdf/society/54-1218.pdf

The following wiki article shows how attenuation is much greater at higher frequencies (Stoke's Law)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes'_law_(sound_attenuation)

I would think growing dense shrubbery between the roosters and the cottage would help since this is a higher pitch sound.

You could use a more massive building system like ICF but I think your weak point is still your windows and doors.  I would try locating the most noise sensitive side opposite from the roosters.  If this is for guests extra ear plugs is not a bad idea.  You will adjust to the noise and many guests may not notice but for the light sleepers it might be a good option to have available.

I couldn't resist the comments on noise control.  I spent about 6 weeks overseas on a rural construction project.  They had a rooster that crowed throughout the night and there were no walls separating us.  There were about 35 of us there for the project who had all nicknamed him "dinner".  I wasn't going to kill him but I kept hoping someone would.  Surpisingly enough he lived through the project but 20 years later I still remember him.
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
06 Apr 2010 09:46 PM
Posted By lambabbey on 06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM
Chris:

You and I apparently have different standards.   

For me, it's not about being ultra-sensitive to sounds. It's about building the best home possible, at a reasonable cost, given the technology that exists. 

When I have guests visit, I'm not going to expect them to wear earplugs.  



It's one thing adjusting to a bad situation; it's another altogether intentionally building one.



John



John;

I can sleep through a thunderstorm, others wake at the slightest noise. Your weak point is not the SIPs for sound proofing , it is the window glazing. I was half joking about the ear plugs, but trying to make a "common sense" point, I certainly would not expend thousands of dollars for the occasional guest, who may or may not find the rooster's 5 am wake up call objectionable.
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
firefoxUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:34

--
06 Apr 2010 10:27 PM
"I would think growing dense shrubbery between the roosters and the cottage would help since this is a higher pitch sound."

This is why I recomended putting a straw bale wall between the hen house and the house. It would be pretty cheap and you could plant some nice vines to cover it.
Maybe rasberries or some such, or just plain ivy.

Worst case scenario you could build an enclosure for the hen house that would absorb all the noise. Certainly a much cheaper solution than messing around with your living structure that has to meet all kinds of other criteria like lighting, heating,
etc.

Bruce
firefoxUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:34

--
06 Apr 2010 10:52 PM
One other technique  you could use is sound cancellation electronics.
The sound source is in a well defined area. Microphones are installed near the
source, and speakers are installed between the source and the problem area. ie your house. The sound is picked up by the microphones, phase shifted so that the
sound leaving the speakers is the inverse of the sound coming from the roosters.
Thus cancelling the sound.  This technology has been around for ages so it should be pretty cheap by now.  I suspect that for this situation it would work very well.

This also means that house guests that like to sleep with the windows open will not
be bothered by the roosters.
Bruce
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
07 Apr 2010 03:30 AM
Posted By cmkavala on 06 Apr 2010 09:46 PM


John;

Your weak point is not the SIPs for sound proofing , it is the window glazing. I was half joking about the ear plugs, but trying to make a "common sense" point, I certainly would not expend thousands of dollars for the occasional guest, who may or may not find the rooster's 5 am wake up call objectionable.

Chris:

I'm already going with the best window glazing I can get my hands on:   http://www.meticulum.com/UUT_Windows.jpg -- Specifically, the Unilux UltraTherm 0.7 in this image.    I understand that doors and windows are the points of greatest vulnerability to noise, but I'm already addressing that.    I simply want to do so with the walls, too.   

For the record, I'm not building this home for the occasional guest.   I work from a home office.   The soundproofing is more for me than anyone.    That being said though, it's nice to know that guests would be able to get a good night's rest with potentially 30 roosters crowing 200 feet away.


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
07 Apr 2010 03:39 AM
Posted By Torben on 06 Apr 2010 12:03 PM

I would think growing dense shrubbery between the roosters and the cottage would help since this is a higher pitch sound.

Posted By firefox on 06 Apr 2010 10:27 PM
"I would think growing dense shrubbery between the roosters and the cottage would help since this is a higher pitch sound."

This is why I recomended putting a straw bale wall between the hen house and the house. It would be pretty cheap and you could plant some nice vines to cover it.
Maybe rasberries or some such, or just plain ivy.

Bruce

Torben & Bruce:

Thanks for the feedback.    You both make similar suggestions regarding a dense wall between the chicken coop and the house.    It makes good sense.    I won't be building the barn on this property for at least a year after the cottage goes up, but I think I can lay things out in such a way that the barn itself is the sound break between the house and the chicken coop.     If I still need additional sound control, I'll consider buying a tazer. 



John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
07 Apr 2010 05:35 AM
oh I feel another Kevin Bourland in the making
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
07 Apr 2010 11:23 AM
Chris:

What is the point of making an antagonistic comment? Does it really forward anything?


John
John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
07 Apr 2010 12:43 PM
John;

That was not directed towards you, but funny you thought so?
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
TorbenUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:216

--
07 Apr 2010 01:27 PM
Serious also makes a slightly more insulative window and designs some specifically for sound attenuation (...as long as money is no object).
 
http://index.seriouswindows.com/residential/quietwindows.html
wesUser is Offline
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Send Private Message
Posts:810

--
08 Apr 2010 08:35 AM
I am sometimes surprised at the flow of comments on any given subject.
Who would have thought that a question about chickens would have engendered 33 (34?) comments.
John, my last suggestion on the subject is this. If you don't love everything about chickens, maybe you should think about cows.
Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected]
greentreeUser is Offline
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Send Private Message
Posts:587

--
08 Apr 2010 08:54 AM
Posted By lambabbey on 06 Apr 2010 09:49 AM
Posted By greentree on 06 Apr 2010 09:23 AM
There are 3 methods to reducing sound transmission 1. provide cavity absorbtion 2.increase mass and 3.break the sound vibration path.

These are ratings for interior walls, but a standard 2x4 with 1/2 gyp on both sides is STC 34. Add insualtion and it's STC 39. Double the gypsum (2 layers both sides) and its STC 45. Now install hat channel on 1 side and you have STC 56. At STC 30 loud speech can be understood, STC 42 loud speech is audible as a murmur, STC 50 loud speech is not audible. And obviously windows, doors and other penatrations dillute the rating.

These ideas can be applied to any wall, I would look into mass loaded vinyl to keep it thin.

My point is that all of these options require an additional stud wall to be built on the interior of the SIPs.    This would result in the rooms shrinking at least 3 1/2" on each of the four sides.   It's too much to lose in a house as small as I'm building.

I was hoping to be able to come up with a soundproofing solution that sacrificed no more than an additional 1 1/2" of space on each wall.      Even mass loaded vinyl need to be installed across studs to be effective.


John

Not really. Mass loaded vinyl is used under carpet against a subfloor which is the same principle on a sip wall. Hat channel doesn't need a separate wall and doubling drywall doesn't need a separate wall, so no problem amigo.
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
08 Apr 2010 09:24 AM
Wes;

cows are way worse, their mooooooooo's are a much lower frequency, you would definitely need the earplugs on top of all the other precautions.

Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
gerutaUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:9

--
08 Apr 2010 10:50 AM
i used some stuff called green glue http://www.greengluecompany.com/ that seemed to be helpful in my non sip house. - applied over existing drywall, noticeably cut down on street noise. same idea as quietrock, but DIY and could put a glue/damping layer between the sip osb and drywall. if not quiet enough, then add another layer, etc

cheers,
george
JellyUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:1017

--
08 Apr 2010 05:17 PM
Wes, Chris, John, I understand ostrich are relatively silent, as well as flightless. And they lay *HUGE* eggs, right? I think they spit, though.
BigrigUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:92

--
08 Apr 2010 05:41 PM

I don't think they spit, that is llamas. They do vomit in their water (which will need to be cleaned up on a regular basis) and they are dangerously strong kickers. They are fairly aggressive creatures. Also their eggs may be large, but I don't think they lay that many.

Dan MillerUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:1

--
09 Apr 2010 12:02 AM
John,

I think you are underestimating how quiet a 10" SIP building would be with just a few additions.  By using the double plate you are cutting down on a source of sound transmission, and I would fill between the plates with spray foam for insulation purposes.  Fill EVERY nook and craney, crack and crevass in the home with foam or caulking.  I am only familiar with the gulf coast, but if possible use a non-vented attic; I assume you are since you're using a SIP roof.  Double or triple the sheetrock for mass, and then go fill every crack you can find again.  I don't think you will be able to hear the Roosters through the wall.  You will be able to hear them through the glass, and ANY openings you might have, but all you can do is buy the best windows you can afford.  Tightly sealed windows are also much quieter.  There are weak spots for sound transmission in any wall structure, but it most likely will not be through the wall, but around it or through the windows, vent stacks, wall penetrations, etc.

We built a spec home a few years back using 6 1/2" Sip walls and 10 1/2" Sip roof, sealed attic and we were FANATIC about getting everything seal, caulked, etc. This is much easier to do with a SIP home by the way.  This was the most quiet house I had ever been in.  It was only about 150 feet off of a very busy road, and you did not even know the outside world existed inside that house.

Dan Miller
lambabbeyUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:148

--
09 Apr 2010 05:47 AM
Dan, et al.

I really appreciate all of the input. I've gotten a lot of great feedback in this thread, much of which I'll be using on this next little home. I indeed will have a non-vented attic, an air-tight envelope, and the best windows and doors I can get my hands on. I also like the idea of the split plates with the spray foam insulation between, doubling up on the sheetrock, and caulking and sealing everything to death.

I've decided to make do with the 10 1/4" XPS SIPs for both the walls and the roof and to pass on adding an inner stud wall. It's just too much. I'm making sure that the barn to be built will be positioned between the house and the chicken coop, and that a windbreak of Swedish Aspen gets planted in front of the open side of the coop to stop the noise from projecting into the huge open field that the coop will face. Further, the house will be oriented so the front of the house faces due North, and the open side of the coop faces due South.

I think all of these things added up should solve the problem without having to sacrifice any valuable space in the house itself. One thing I didn't mention is that the size of the coop (1,080 sq ft) will actually be larger than the actual house (1,049 sq ft), which is why I'm obsessing a bit about all of this. At capacity, the coop will house 120 hens, 40 roosters, and 2 dozen turkeys.

I'll eventually cull the roosters back to 2 dozen, but that's still potentially a lot of crowing.  

Thanks again for the feedback.



John

John A Gasbarre<br>Lamb Abbey Orchards<br>Union, ME 04862<br>[email protected]<br>


---
Active Forums 4.1