Acting as an Owner/Builder I built a stilt home on a saltwater canal in Florida. I contacted a local manufacturer who put me in touch with a local contractor experienced in erecting sips panel homes. He put up the frame and panels. I subbed the rest. 13 years later we discovered a lot of dry rot in the osb panels used to construct the floor set on a steel I beam system. I had the panels coated with sheet aluminum on the exposed underside as a protective finish.I sealed the joints between panels with "peel & seal". My concern is how to repair the damaged osb? bobnrobn

Not an easy fix and for SIPs one would have to contact an engineer to review the damage.

Unlike stick frame that can be removed and replaced. Damage to SIPs due to rot is something that takes more $$ and an engineer to diagnose.

I would contact an engineer who is familiar with SIPs and have them come over and evaluate what's going on.

(Not speaking to you directly but that is why SIPs need to be installed and detailed in a way to prevent water damage/rot from happening and to provide proper air flow to allow the panels to dry. Some people cut corners and don't do it correctly and 5-10 years later the SIPs are rotting and they are facing astronomical repair bills. It's always easier and less $ to do it right during the construction phase.)

Posted By bobnrobn on 26 May 2015 11:59 AM
Acting as an Owner/Builder I built a stilt home on a saltwater canal in Florida. I contacted a local manufacturer who put me in touch with a local contractor experienced in erecting sips panel homes. He put up the frame and panels. I subbed the rest. 13 years later we discovered a lot of dry rot in the osb panels used to construct the floor set on a steel I beam system. I had the panels coated with sheet aluminum on the exposed underside as a protective finish.I sealed the joints between panels with "peel & seal". My concern is how to repair the damaged osb? bobnrobn

what brand panel were they?
Have you contacted them?

From what you said it appears the sheet aluminum captured moisture with no way for the osb surface to dry out.

Who suggestion was that the manufacturer, architect?

If It was mine I would strip off the osb somehow fasten new osb or plywood screw thru the floor with fasteners of some sort in your location SS with large washers.

Leave the alum off maybe paint it.

Posted By bobnrobn on 26 May 2015 11:59 AM
Acting as an Owner/Builder I built a stilt home on a saltwater canal in Florida. I contacted a local manufacturer who put me in touch with a local contractor experienced in erecting sips panel homes. He put up the frame and panels. I subbed the rest. 13 years later we discovered a lot of dry rot in the osb panels used to construct the floor set on a steel I beam system. I had the panels coated with sheet aluminum on the exposed underside as a protective finish.I sealed the joints between panels with "peel & seal". My concern is how to repair the damaged osb? bobnrobn

unfortunateley sounds like replacement

Posted By gosolar on 26 May 2015 05:23 PM

If It was mine I would strip off the osb somehow fasten new osb or plywood screw thru the floor with fasteners of some sort in your location SS with large washers.

Leave the alum off maybe paint it.

NOT a good recommendation. You can't simply fix a SIP by pulling off the skins and clamping down some new skins on top. That's not how it works.

Unless you are an engineer and are willing to accept the liability of such a fix, I would not be giving people such advice.

Chris Kavala is right.

All this rotting wood SIPS is pure poppycock..Go solar say it ain't so!

Bobnrobn; is this house in Punta Gorda?

This is my first foray into forums and open posting. I am not comfortable responding to direct questions. How can we contact each other by e-mail? Bobnrobn

Bob,
I understand you can either private message me on this forum , by clicking on my name and it will take you to an area to do that or email me directly at address below or call me if you wish, you and I have actually met before.

It seems like there are a number of ways to create a "moisture sandwidth" with OSB SIPs. With bad results.

With significant AC use and a hot/humid outside, I'd even be careful even with a breathable or vented covering. It could spend too much time below dewpoint or at elevated (ie above the normal outdoor) humidity. Thick foam and joints taped on both sides should help.

I'd ask your engineer about the possibility of gluing EPS foam blocks in the cavities formed by the I-beams and then adding steel SIPs underneath the I-beams. Or the equivalent using spray foam. Maybe cheaper than ripping out and replacing the floor with steel SIPs.

jonr,
I am somewhat familiar with the job, I beleive you are on the right track. the splines were 2 x 8 dimensional lumber. and I believe that they have shrunk allowing the cold conditioned air to settle to the bottom of the spline joint where it hits the hot humid air and condenses. allowing water/moisture to lay on the OSB.