I've heard that one way to finish the interior of a metal SIPs home is to add furring strips and hang drywall. I'm looking into alternatives to accomplish a couple of things: 1) I'd like to recess outlets so they don't stick into the room. 2) I'd like to make a wall more maintenance friendly. That is, if I want to add speaker wire or Ethernet down the road, I'd like easy access versus traditional wire fishing.

One idea I have is an internal framing, say 2x4's or 1x3's with drywall over it. The drywall would not reach the floor (about 6-8" higher) or the ceiling. Top and bottom of the drywall would be finished with plastic to make the edges nice, and then there would be a finished wood piece top and bottom that could be removed (unscrewed?) to run wires. Outlets would point down in that open space at the bottom for recessed plugs.

My questions are: would that be permitable for fire rating? Would the carpenters hate me? Can drywall "hit" 1x3 framing like that? How would I attach to the metal SIP? Furring again? Noise dampening furring mounts? .

Thanks as always for humoring me!

Not sure exactly what you're describing here kited, but I think your questions really aren't specific to steel SIP construction. Basically you want to know if you can have an electrical chase that remains accessible, right?

Posted By kited on 27 Aug 2015 05:30 PM
I've heard that one way to finish the interior of a metal SIPs home is to add furring strips and hang drywall. I'm looking into alternatives to accomplish a couple of things: 1) I'd like to recess outlets so they don't stick into the room. 2) I'd like to make a wall more maintenance friendly. That is, if I want to add speaker wire or Ethernet down the road, I'd like easy access versus traditional wire fishing.

One idea I have is an internal framing, say 2x4's or 1x3's with drywall over it. The drywall would not reach the floor (about 6-8" higher) or the ceiling. Top and bottom of the drywall would be finished with plastic to make the edges nice, and then there would be a finished wood piece top and bottom that could be removed (unscrewed?) to run wires. Outlets would point down in that open space at the bottom for recessed plugs.

My questions are: would that be permitable for fire rating? Would the carpenters hate me? Can drywall "hit" 1x3 framing like that? How would I attach to the metal SIP? Furring again? Noise dampening furring mounts? .

Thanks as always for humoring me!

Kited,
the purpose of the furring strips is so the boxes will be recessed,
1 x3's or 1 x2 's will work or 7/8" steel hi-hat furring or 1-1/2" steel hi-hat works the best, that way the electrician can utilize a 4 x 4 x 1-1/2" deep box with plaster ring for most outlets
there is no fire rating required by code, but there is a 15 minute "THERMAL" barrier required.
1/2" drywall 3/4" wood meets the requirement, but plastic would not,
attach wood furring strips with #8 x 1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws or equiv. / and steel furring with #10 x 3/4" sheet metal screw

Ok, by recessed, I don't mean the j-box. I actually don't want the plug sticking out into the room. They make deep recessed outlet boxes, but I'm thinking more of pointing the outlet either up or down (or even sideways???)



When I talk of 1x3's or 2x4's, I'm not thinking of using them like furring. I want to use the wider dimension to create 3-4" (-, of course dimensional lumber size) space between the SIP and drywall. I only want the thick part of the wall 8' tall and have it open on the top and bottom, preferably with the metal SIP interior exposed. On the bottom the outlets will face down and plugs will hide there. On the top, I may lay some rope lighting.




The plastic I mentioned was just for finishing the edges of the drywall:




http://www.plasticomponents.com/products.asp?CatId=3&SubCatId=60

Oh, and the accessibility would be the board at the bottom (w/ cutouts for the outlets) could be removed to access the wiring laterally so as to not need to fish wires.

Posted By kited on 28 Aug 2015 07:26 PM
Oh, and the accessibility would be the board at the bottom (w/ cutouts for the outlets) could be removed to access the wiring laterally so as to not need to fish wires.

Yes its been done before like that , using trim screws to attach base board so that it is removable

typical furring shown........