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Phil Peters Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:2
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| 05/26/2000 9:35 AM |
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My parents home in Englewood FL (Gulf coast)was built in the early '80s by a spec builder who used 4' x 8' x 3.5" EPS core SIPs. The skin of the SIPs is a T-111 type panel on both sides that is the exterior finish for the structure. The exterior is painted periodically with an Olympic solid stain. The exterior plywood skin on one of the panels on the south (sun) side of the structure has begun to delaminate - a 2' dia "bubble" in the middle of the panel. Naturally, this panel is approx 24' off the ground, and is surrounded by other panels. What are my repair options? Once repaired, what are my residing options? This home, while not ON the beach is 300 yards from the Gulf. Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Steve Andrews Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:334
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| 05/26/2000 12:24 PM |
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Phil, do your parents know manufacturer produced the panels? If so, some offer extended warranties on their products, including some who offer limited lifetime warranties. They would be your first stop. Unfortunately, due to changes in Florida codes during the early 1990s, almost none of the local manufacturers from the 1980s are still in business. Barring that, I suggest you contact a building field researcher who is very familiar with SIPs to help you determine if the problem is as localized as you indicate: just a 2'x2' section, probably within one 4x8-foot panel. The Florida Solar Energy Center (407-638-1014, or www.fsec.ucf.edu) would likely be the best place to start in your area. If that type of consulting costs too much, you can contact your nearest SIP manufacturers (see SIP Directory) or SIP builders--the very folks who might end up helping you out.
Your options fall in two generic categories: you can either try to repair the panel in place, or cut out the offending section and replace it. In either case, a critical item will be finish detailing to prevent entry of water into your panel that could make the original problem worse.
Repair: This would probably involve injecting a compatible adhesive through a number of small holes between the T1-11 siding and foam core, then using rods and plates to compress the facings until the adhesive had dried, then sealing the holes against water intrusion.
Replacement considerations: this involves cutting and removing part or all of the failed panel. Possible scenario: the contractor cuts out a 3'x3' piece of panel, recesses the foam with a hot knife around all four edges of the opening, attachs 2x4 blocking around all four sides of the opening, then inserts the panel from the exterior with the T1-11 lined up to fit.
But there are so many variables here (what type of splines were used to join the panels? how close is this problem panel to a sheltering overhang? how close is the bad spot to a top or bottom plate? to a water-shedding metal z-flashing joint?) that no solution could possibly be prescribed via e-mail. The above descriptions are simply attached to explore generic options and provide frames of reference.
Given the 24'-high location of the problem, someone would likely need to set up scaffolding in order to safely and effectively resolve the problem and apply the appropriate finish details. Furthermore, these are not generally do-it-yourself type activities; for example, suitable adhesives for a repair-in-place approach may not be available at your local Home Depot. You'll need to work with someone who is familiar with SIPs.
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Jim Tracy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:15
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| 05/26/2000 5:31 PM |
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Dear Phil, Sorry to hear about your problems. But please tell us more: 1. Is the home a timber framed or post and beam structure? 2. Is it located on a gable end, (peak)? 3. Describe the "bubble"? Does it cxhange with temperature variation or sun exposures? 4. How long is the overhang of the roof above it? 5. How many stories is the structure? 6. What, sdtructurally is located over the bubble Is it at or under the ridge beam? 7. Is there evidence of moisture intrusion into a panel seam? Are the joints of the T-111 flashed or counter flashed with metal? Sorry to be so specific, but we really desire to assist you in the discovery of what is wrong before pointing you in any direction. It also points out the importance of the 3rd Party Plant Inspections required of SIPA manufacturing members. Things like this can happen unless the manufacturer is very careful and can prove it by Independent auditing by code listed QA agencies.
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Steve Andrews Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:334
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| 06/02/2000 10:17 PM |
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Phil, is there any chance that you could e-mail a photo of the damaged section which you described in your post of 5/26/00? If so, please send a copy to me as well as to Jim Tracy at jimt@sips.org.
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Phil Peters Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:2
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| 06/07/2000 11:00 PM |
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Reply to Steve Andrews: 1. re original manufacturer. My parents may have a current address for the builder and he may be able to refer me to the manufacturer. 2. thanks for the referral to Florida Solar Energy Center and I will look in this site's SIP Directory for manufacturers in Central Fl. 3. I had thought about the "adhesive sandwich" approach but as you pointed out, I wasn't sure of the type of adhesive, the required spread, etc. I am hoping that exploring SIP manufacturers and installers in the Central Gulf Coast area will turn up someone willing to tackle a repair and then discuss residing options with me. I want to get another skin on the exterior to prevent further deterioration of the exterior surface of the structural panels. 4. I'll try to get a picture to you soon. Thanks again to you and Jim Tracy for showing an interest in my problem.
Phil Peters 412.255.6684 (work phone)
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