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underslab insulation
Last Post 08 Oct 2009 08:20 AM by toddm. 65 Replies.
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Steve Netwriter
 New Member
 Posts:8
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| 12 Jun 2009 01:45 AM |
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Another thank you to toddm for mentioning shallow frost protected foundations, which enabled me to find the only insulation method that looks sensible: How to insulate the edge of foundationsSteve |
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arkie6
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1453
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| 14 Jun 2009 12:51 PM |
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Install brick veneer on top of foam insulation??? |
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Steve Netwriter
 New Member
 Posts:8
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| 14 Jun 2009 05:19 PM |
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Hi, It wasn't something I'd even considered as possible until I looked at this:
http://www.toolbase.org/ToolbaseResources/level4TechCAD.aspx?ContentDetailID=2713&BucketID=2&CategoryID=15
Hmmm, insulation under the bricks, how is that possible, I thought. Then I noticed "type V, VI or VII" XPS. Why those?
Because of the compressive strength. Type V XPS has a compressive strength of 100psi. If you work out the weight of a brick and all the bricks above it for a single storey, you'll see that the insulation is quite capable of supporting the weight.
The insulation obviously needs protection, and anyone in an area where it is particularly prone to being attacked may find it unacceptable as a solution.
I've read that architects tend to underestimate the compressive strength of XPS.
My calculations:
Compressive strength = 100psi of Type V from: http://www.xpsa.com/tech/standards.html
A brick 230mm x 70mm = 9" x 2.76" = 24.8 in2 100psi x 24.8 in2 = 2480 lb
Assuming a 2kg brick (4.4lb), 53 (9' of brick) x 4.4 lb = 233 lb
So the insulation has a compressive strength about 10x the weight it needs to support.
Surprising is it not.
Steve
PS This is very good: http://www.energycodes.gov/implement/pdfs/lib_ks_found_ins_guide.pdf
PPS BaseCalc works until I select "slab-on-grade".
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arkie6
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1453
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| 19 Jun 2009 10:33 AM |
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I've never seen any foam board available locally with a compressive strength of much over 25 psi.
How exactly is the compressive strength of foam board calculated? How much deflection is allowed and for what time period? Is there a possibility of creep or compression over time with sustained point loads? Just something to consider. |
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DavidV
 New Member
 Posts:9
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| 19 Jun 2009 10:38 AM |
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I personally have no idea how psi is calculated, but we sell 1/2" high density ISO with a psi of 100. |
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Dana1
 Senior Member
 Posts:6991
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| 19 Jun 2009 04:03 PM |
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Compressive strength is not calculated- it's tested. (Testing details are part of ASTM C578-08b )
The compressive strength is directly a function of it's density. Both high & low density versions of XPS are available. The most commonly available stuff is ~2lbs/ft^3 with compressive strength of 25psi +/- 10 psi. But there's 3lb/ft^3 stuff available that's good to 100psi. See:
http://www.xpsa.com/tech/standards.html
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Steve Netwriter
 New Member
 Posts:8
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| 19 Jun 2009 05:44 PM |
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An alternative to XPS I've looked at is using a course of lightweight blocks (Thermalite etc) where the XPS would go. The trouble is the lightweight blocks have a conductivity of about 0.15W/mK. http://www.heidelbergcement.com/uk/en/hanson/products/blocks/aircrete_blocks/index.htm That gives: Thermalite shield blocks, R = 0.215m / 0.15W/mK = 1.43 m² °C/W
R of 25mm XPS type V = 0.88
m² °C/W , so 50mm has R =
1.76
m² °C/W
So a course of lightweight blocks is about the same as 41mm of XPS. The problem is the extra height of the blocks compared with the XPS, which makes life difficult for shallow foundations. Around here the trench can be a little as 300mm deep, subject to finding a firm base.
I'm trying to work out a solution for foundations here in New Zealand which would be acceptable and attractive compared with the ultra cheap system used at the moment, which is just a monolithic concrete slab/foundations, with NO insulation  I can tell you from experience right now that the floors get really cold, which to me is absolutely crazy, especially given that the main thermal mass of a timber frame house is the floor.
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ecobuilder
 Basic Member
 Posts:102
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| 21 Jun 2009 01:18 AM |
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Posted By toddm on 07/27/2008 12:29 PM Alas, I belong in the class comprising 98 percent of American householders who do not have unlimited construction budgets, and won't benefit from the reflexive advice of folks who have products to sell, namely that we should buy more of everything. It is instructive that the only payback analysis in this thread was done by a soon-to-be homeowner. I repeat my advice: If you have to make choices, order your insulation priorities starting at the top of the house and work down. If you can't afford to insulate under the basement floor --as opposed to the foundation perimeter -- it isn't the end of the world. Better yet, build a frost-protected shallow foundation. Here is a link to a joint HUD/NAHB paper on it: http://www.toolbase.org/Home-Building-Topics/Affordable-Construction/frost-protected-shallow-foundations As its name suggests, these foundations are not dug to the frostline but rather are protected by insulation. You'll find it in 2006 IRC. The Swedes have been building them for 40 years. Spend some of your savings on concrete on extra insulation and you have a house that costs less to build and to operate. Google the phrase and see how rarely it pops up in this forum. Where is the Whole Earth Catalog now that we really need it?
So what are you saying? build a slab on grade without insulation below the entire slab? I wouldn't even consider such notion in any climate. I have no product to sell and I am only here as a professional builder of energy efficient and zero energy homes looking to spread the word about how homes can and should be built better. If you chose not to insulate under your slab then that is your choice. But from one who has built many energy efficient homes and even a zero energy home, I think you would be making a big mistake. Take it for what it's worth and then make your decsions yourself. You are right 98% of Amercian just don't get it yet. We cannot continue to build energy wasting homes and then complain about the cost to heat and cool them. And as a builder of these type of buildings I have done the energy calcs, have you? Without them you cannot begin to get a payback. A 2,000 sq/ft slab on grade will cost about $2,400 to insulate but if you don't your energy cost to heat and cool a home here in MA will be at least 20% greater for the life of your building. Your call, pay now or pay forever. Tom Pittsley [email protected] www.eebt.org |
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| "Don't be afraid to go out on a limb. That's where the fruit is." Jackson Brown |
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ecobuilder
 Basic Member
 Posts:102
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| 21 Jun 2009 01:42 AM |
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Here is a video showing how I do the insluation below the slab, here in northeastern US. What I don't show in this video is how we treat the perimeter after the slab is poured and the forms stripped. What I did was place 2" energyshield insulation R14.4 from the bottom of the slab up to the top, we then covered this with wire mess and coated with ferror cement for a finished look. Insulating the sill is another obsticle in and of it'self and we took several steps to add insulation and eliminate thermal bridging at the sill as well. I use a geofaom insluation under my slabs, can be ordered to different densities with different compression stregths and different thicknesses for different R-values. I use 3" of 2# density with an R15.3 and costs around $1 sq/ft. Well worth the added costs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7ICP024ogw&feature=channel_page part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkXceHPU7zw&feature=channel_page part 2 Tom Pittsley [email protected] www.eebt.org |
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| "Don't be afraid to go out on a limb. That's where the fruit is." Jackson Brown |
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toddm
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1152
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| 21 Jun 2009 09:18 AM |
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Posted By toddm on 08/01/2008 11:53 AM Or you could listen to engineering professors who have spent decades devising models and testing them against real basements. Turns out Basecalc, the Canadian government's basement heat loss modeling software runs fine under W2000, and XP as well, except for some extra steps necessary to launch and exit the program. A couple of runs blows a basement-sized hole in the conventional wisdom on this forum. I modeled a 1,000 SF basement with 8 inch poured walls, and a 4 inch poured floor five feet below grade (roughly translated from the metric measurements preferred by those pesky Canadians.) I conditioned the basement to a year-round 70 degrees. I modeled heat loss using the software's soil and weather profiles for Wash DC, Minneapolis and Denver. Minneapolis makes the strongest case for insulation, not surprisingly, but the others were in line, so we'll stick with the worst case in Minnesota. With no insulation, our Minneapolis basement bled 61.5 gigajoules of energy a year. A GJ is roughly equivalent to an MCF of natural gas, so it is fairly easy to adjust the loss for furnace efficiency and translate it to dollars. That would be north of $1,000/yr in the case of no insulation in Minneapolis and natural gas at $15 per MCF. In the second pass, I added two inches of EPS II to the basement's exterior walls in their entirety. The loss fell by more than half, to 28.8 GJ, for savings of $500+ year that are easily justified. But that would be the end of the no brainers. Adding 2 inches of XPS under the slab reduced annual energy loss to 26.4 GJ from the 28.8 GJ above. So XPS at $1/SF saves $40/year, assuming $15/MCF gas burned in a high efficiency furnace. The payback is an emphatically unacceptable 25 years. It should be noted here that fuel oil at $5/gallon reduces the payback to 10 years, or just within reason. I am not saying don't insulate. I am saying think about it first, including how that $1,000 could be better spent. Why XPS disappoints is an excellent argument for studying problems rather than throwing money at them. Butting wall and slab foam to the footers leaves thermal bridges at the precise points that soil can diffuse a fair amount of heat: along foundation edges and most particularly at corners. In a fourth run, I moved the EPS to the interior of basement walls, put a thermal break (RSI=1) between the wall and the slab, and placed 2 inches of XPS under the outside edge of the slab, insulating its first 3.28 feet. The energy loss drops to 23.5 GJ, for a equivalency savings of 5.3 MCF/yr over exterior EPS alone, or $88/year. In a final run, I extended the two-inch XPS in the model above to full coverage under the slab, vs about 40 percent coverage in the edges-only scheme. Full coverage reduced energy loss to 21.1 GJ, for savings equivalent to about 2.4 MCF/yr, or $40/yr once again. While the payback on the extra $600 of XPS is better at 15 years, it still isn't good. Clearly, basement floors are not major energy concerns, even in Minnesota. Lest you think I am fudging this somehow, I refer you to a 2005 study by a Canadian goverment task force: "Performance Guidelines for Basement Envelope Systems and Materials" http://irc.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/pubs/rr/rr199/rr199.pdf The 193 page study presents best practices and uses Basecalc to perform cost/benefit analyses. It ignores slab insulation except in a single word on page 16: "(Optional)" Leaving the center of a basement slab uninsulated in Minneapolis is the worst-case month of Jan costs an extra 400 btu/hr in energy use, which is why Rescheck ignores basement slabs except in walkout situations. Here are the two key principles about foundation loss: As much as 80 percent of heat loss from foundations happens above grade or near grade. It's simply a function of Delta T. At frost level, by definition, soil temperatures are always >32 degrees. Below grade, heat loss is via conduction and thus occurs at right angles. The edges of the footers lose twice as much heat as the bottom of the slab, and the corners of the footers lose three times as much heat. No offense, Ecobuilder, but you should spend some money creating a thermal break between the slab and the stem wall. Your foundation walls may be R14, but I'm betting your walls are much better insulated, and they don't have heated PEX ~ 18 inches from winter air. Meanwhile the entire stemwall is a thermal bridge to the footings. I settled on stem walls built with 8-inch cavity ICF block. I am capping it with a 12 inch AAC block and floating the slab inside the interior insulation, which completely isolates the foundation concrete except at two door openings. At R=1/inch for AAC, the diagonal across the block from ICF core to the interior space is ~ R-6 at what would be a sill plate in stick built. The slab itself is R-10 at its edges, and R20 to the outside. While I once considered leaving a hole in the insulation under the slab to increase storage in a passive solar design I abandoned the notion after calculating how little solar radiation there is in Pa in Dec. Once again, I am not asking you to believe me. Read the Canadian study cited in my earlier post. |
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ReadyToRetire
 Basic Member
 Posts:212
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| 21 Jun 2009 10:37 AM |
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Sorry for bending the thread. I don't recall my concern being addressed, I apologize in advance if it was.
As I understand it, in order to create a thermal break, you need to place a dense foam between the slab and the footer's lip for a vertical break, and between the slab and the wall for a horizontal break.
I'm in Virginia, and we have termites. How do you create an effective termite barrier with that configuration?
Very respectfully, Larry
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toddm
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1152
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| 21 Jun 2009 12:25 PM |
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You can buy borate treated EPS which claims to be termite resistant. Putting the foam inside the stem walls also helps. http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/designsthatwork/cold/profiles/minneapolis.htm One suspects that termites take the path of least resistance, that is, that they won't tunnel under your footings if they can run up a few inches of bare concrete instead.
While the Minn profile in the building sciences page above would be overkill in most parts of Va., I'd still isolate the slab if you plan on radiant heat.
I have to make one correction in my earlier post. Most heat loss happens above or near grade not only because of Delta T, but also because of the relative poor heat conductivity of soil. How poor is a local phenomenon, as are load bearing qualities. There is no substitute for finding a local foundation contractor or building expert with green building experience and asking how it is done in your part of the world. |
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Steve Netwriter
 New Member
 Posts:8
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| 21 Jun 2009 06:21 PM |
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Larry, As I don't appear to be able to post pictures on here, have a look at this: Concrete Foundation and Slab Insulation OptionsI've drawn the standard way here in NZ, and some options I've been looking at. The lightweight block option might be a good option for you. I'm going to update that thread with any options I can find or think of. Tom (ecobuilder), Great videos. By chance I watched the water filled windows one a few days ago. Very interesting stuff. It's a pity you don't have one on the exact details of insulating the edge. That build is amazingly different to the standard way here. You'd be amazed. Toddm, What I don't understand about putting a thermal break between the foundations and the slab is the issue of differential settlement. Not such an issue in most places, but surely critical at junctions between the outside wall which is on the foundation and the inner wall on the slab. Do you have foundations under inner walls? Even so different loads should lead to differential settlement. I find this a fascinating subject. Thanks to all contributors to this thread. Steve |
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jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
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| 21 Jun 2009 06:29 PM |
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Just so it's clear - underslab basement insulation, 7' or so below grade, without radiant heat and far from moving ground water isn't so critical. But underslab insulation for slab on grade or or an exposed basement is.
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toddm
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1152
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| 21 Jun 2009 08:52 PM |
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Yes, Netwriter, load bearing properties are critical. You'd want a free floating slab like mine resting on undisturbed, stable soil (adjusted for the added foam and gravel.) If you need fill, you also need soil engineering (read tamping). And if you are building on expansive clay or other problem soils, you're probably out of luck. Interior loads aren't a problem in central Pa according to my structural engineer. He wants me to cut away the foam and scrape the gravel aside for a width of 16 inches under 2x4 bearing walls. That's it. But you'd want a engineer or a veteran foundation contractor telling you what works where you are.
You don't say what the climate is where you live. Slabs like those you diagram were standard practice in the southern U.S. a few years ago. Today, energy codes would require at least an inch of perimeter insulation in places like Dallas, Texas.
Yes and no, jonr. I modeled a basement built five feet below grade in Minneapolis. I am thinking that isn't far off the frost line there, so a slab on grade wouldn't perform a whole lot worse given equal insulation in the walls, except perhaps for a more pronounced seasonal lag as the encapsulated dirt warmed and cooled. That said, a shallower foundation would not compare well to a full basement without extra attention to its grade and near grade elements.
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ecobuilder
 Basic Member
 Posts:102
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| 21 Jun 2009 09:07 PM |
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Hi Steve,
Glad you liked the videos. I did shoot some video of the perimeter insulation detail but have yet to edit and post it. I didn't shoot the entire detail, just not enough hours in the day to get the house built and video all of the construction details. But I do have some detail and will try and post the little video I have later tonight. I'll send you the link once it's done. Here in this region we are required by code to insulate 3' beyond the perimeter of the slab to protect from frost but they don't require insulating the exterior of foundation above grade. Go figure. This is an area that almost no builders in this region insulate and I don't think they even know how important it is or they just don't have a good easy way of doing it.
Toddm, I agree that insulating the perimeter of the slab and the sill details are of great importance. I would consider doing this differently in the future, perhaps a 4' frost wall insulated. Then a thermal break from the frost wall to the slab. I would still however insulate under the entire slab. I know the energy modeling doesn't show the added value but from my experience and informatin collect from people who live in buildings like this I think it's worth the added cost. Comparing cost of heating buildings without this and with it is a much better way to determine payback. While I use energy modeling to help size heating system, predict energy cost and make decisions about area to concentrate on the real world is slightly different from the model. I compared the energy cost for two houses of same footprint, one with insulation under the entire slab and one without and the energy cost difference was 20% less with the insulation. The other factor is comfort, one that cannot be factored into to the model. I would also agree that a basement slab that is not going to be heated is not worth insulating.
Tom Pittsley [email protected] www.eebt.org |
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| "Don't be afraid to go out on a limb. That's where the fruit is." Jackson Brown |
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jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
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| 21 Jun 2009 09:54 PM |
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Understood, let me try again (I think it would be useful to have a summary). How about:
Given:
no radiant slab heat no nearby moving ground water good wall/foundation and near surface insulation
underslab insulation has an unacceptably long payback. It may have comfort, condensation/mold benefits or be required by code.
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ReadyToRetire
 Basic Member
 Posts:212
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| 22 Jun 2009 03:49 PM |
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Toddm, Steve,
Thanks for the ideas.
My present house has a family room on slab with an exterior foundation exposed about 12" -- no insulation. I'm looking at a dimple membrane, foam, ply, and carpet to try to make it livable. So I understand the problem. I'm just hoping for a solution that I can apply when I build my retirement home.
Very respectfully, Larry
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Steve Netwriter
 New Member
 Posts:8
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| 24 Jun 2009 08:15 PM |
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[quote] You don't say what the
climate is where you live. Slabs like those you diagram were standard
practice in the southern U.S. a few years ago. Today, energy codes
would require at least an inch of perimeter insulation in places like
Dallas, Texas. [/quote]toddm, It's difficult to describe a climate briefly. It gets up to about 35C in summer and down to about 0C in winter. We get about 2000hours of sunshine/year, and the Sun is quite strong here. A day can vary from warm and sunny to cold and windy several times in that day! Typically we get wind from the north which is hot, and when it swings round to from the south we get a sudden Antarctic blast, which is very refreshing  So this is an ideal place for good solar design. But the timber frame approach, with uninsulated slabs is far from good. It gets too hot in summer and too cold in winter. I assume the frost depth is quite shallow as they only require 300mm trenches minimum. Re the ground, we have to worry about earthquakes. We don't get much around here, but sometime we'll probably get something big. It's very flat around Christchurch, hence the Canterbury Plain. Some of it is reclaimed swamp. So I'd be worried about differential settlement here, and I think good slab insulation would make a huge difference. |
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comfun1
 New Member
 Posts:2
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| 03 Jul 2009 07:13 AM |
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Thought I'd throw in my two cents worth. I built the house we live in about twenty years ago 3500 sq ft and a walk out bsmt. No insulation under slab. We are total electric and bills started out at $118 per month and are now $130. Part of the bsmt is carpet and part vinyl. Also have six large skylights two patio doors and lots of large metal framed windows with thermal breaks, no low-e or argon. Wall and ceilings are well insulated and have radiant barriers. The house is very comfortable up and down. Maybe it makes a big difference where you live, I don't know but we are in Kansas. |
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