Cost of ICF Construction
Last Post 27 Feb 2011 12:44 PM by njohnson. 27 Replies.
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retired1User is Offline
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25 Sep 2009 10:17 AM
Clark- I'm interested in using the TF Forms also. Could you post a picture of your homemade scaffolding? Or can you describe how you built and attached them? Thanks!


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25 Sep 2009 08:05 PM
Posted By retired1 on 09/25/2009 10:17 AM
Clark- I'm interested in using the TF Forms also. Could you post a picture of your homemade scaffolding? Or can you describe how you built and attached them? Thanks!

Yes, I can post some pictures.  Give me a day or two.


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27 Sep 2009 12:00 AM
When building with TF System, I was faced with the decision of how to brace the forms and provide scaffolding for doing the pour. It's possible to rent bracing/scaffolding designed specifically for ICF construction. The guys at TF System showed us an aluminum brace/scaffold device that works really well. They quoted a price of $7 per brace per week. I figured that I needed 40 braces over a period of about a month. I was looking at a cost well over $1000 plus the cost of shipping the braces back to Green Bay when I finished with them. I simply couldn’t fit that into my budget.

I decided to make my own braces out of 2x4 lumber and plywood. As you can see in the pictures, each unit is a vertical 2x4 (strongback) cut to a length of 8’-10” (my foundation walls are 10'.)  The scaffold bracket is made out of a 2’ length of 2x4 and two triangular pieces of ½” exterior grade plywood (I recommend fir instead of pine for strength and rot resistance.) Each bracket is screwed together with 22 1-1/2" drywall screws. Another length of 2x4 provides the kickout brace. I bought some turnbuckes for about half of the kickouts to make straightening the forms at mid-wall easier during the pour.  You can get by without them, though.  Two rows of 2x8 planks were screwed to the bracket arms to provide a wide, strong walking surface all around the interior of the wall. 

Each strongback rested on the footing (or deck for the main floor) and was screwed to the ICF PVC I-beam with three 3-1/2" drywall screws.  The length of the strongback was cut accurately so that later it would support the 14” deep LVL ledger board to which the floor joists are attached. These LVLs are quite heavy, so having the strongbacks to support them while they are being bolted to the Simpson Strong Tie ledger board connectors was really helpful.

I reused the strongback braces when building the 9’ above grade walls in similar fashion. When it was time to frame the roof, I used these braces again as shown in the last picture to set the ridge boards and provide footing for installing the rafters. These homemade braces were very sturdy and resulted in a very solid scaffold.

The material cost for the 40 braces was about $350 plus the cost of 16 turnbuckles which I plan to resell on eBay, if I ever get around to it.  When I was finally finished with the braces, I disassembled them and reused the 2x4s for framing the soffits and for miscellaneous blocking. The screws were also reused. The 80 plywood triangles (equivalent of 5 sheets of 4x8 plywood) were disgarded.
 
If I build another ICF house, I'll use the same method.
 

Attachment: Main Floor Scaffolding.jpg
Attachment: Roof Framing.jpg

njohnsonUser is Offline
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27 Feb 2011 08:36 AM
Clark the house looks great.  I'm in the initial planning stages of possibly going ICF TF by myself.  I'll be helped by an experienced builder who has done the same before.
My question is:
When calculating wall SQ FT for your house.  Do you include interior AND exterior of all the walls that will be ICF?  My original guess is "no."  Thanks for any insight.


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27 Feb 2011 09:24 AM
Posted By njohnson on 27 Feb 2011 08:36 AM
My question is:
When calculating wall SQ FT for your house.  Do you include interior AND exterior of all the walls that will be ICF?  My original guess is "no."  Thanks for any insight.


Just the exterior.  My experience with TF Systems is that you supply a plan of your proposed house to them and they will calculate the materials needed to build it.  They have a computer program that estimates the material needs, as well.  It takes into account the area of doors and windows, number of corners and total length of wall.  They over-estimated my materials to ensure that I had enough, explaining that to have to buy a few extra lengths of EPS and/or ties to finish the job before a scheduled pour can be costly. I used the extra foam to insulate part of my garage floor.  Remember, keeping the 'studs' 1' O.C. around windows and doors uses up extra material, but helps when time comes to install the wall finish (e.g., drywall).  Clark


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27 Feb 2011 10:36 AM
Thanks Clark.  It's amazing how many options there are when it comes to construction. TF DIY sounds like the way to go for me at about $8-$10 /sq ft.  Especially when that covers nearly all insulation costs.  It then seems like minimal interior framing is needed. 
My current plan that I'm thinking about building is about 26' X 64' two story with one small jog on one of the walls. 
One issue is the attached garage with future finished bonus room.  I'm debating whether or not to stick build it and insulate really well.  The extra ICF seems like it would put me over my budget.  The plan is a 3 car garage which is about 32 X 25 with (I think) 9 ft ceilings in the gtarge and 8 ft ceilings in the bonus room.  That's a whole lot of extra wall sq ft.  Thoughts?

Also, is it possible to have 6" walls all the way up, basement included.  Or, does the basement need to be 8" to support the weight of two floors?

Thanks


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27 Feb 2011 12:37 PM
My advice: Stick to your budget as much as possible, you're likely to overspend anyway by 10 to 15% due to unanticipated expenses. To save money I chose to stick build my garage(s), having decided that the extra energy efficiency wasn't needed there. A wood-framed structure can be built as energy efficient as ICF if that's your only objective. The added strength and sound absorbing qualities of ICF walls was something I compromised on for the garages to stay on budget.

I used 10' x 8" walls below grade and 9' x 6" above. The thicker wall below grade was chosen to withstand the lateral pressure of the surrounding soil. Remember to reinforce the walls with rebar per TF or your engineer's recommendations.


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27 Feb 2011 12:44 PM
That sounds like just what I'm planning on doing.  My foundation is fairly simple so nothing like your 14 corners.  Do you think a two story will be more cost than a one story?  Probably pretty comparable.  I'll probably go 8' and 8" on basement, 9' and 6" on 1st floor and 8' and 6" on 2nd story. Any tips for windows, doors and bracing.  I looked through he TF guide and it seemed like they've include lots of good information.
What type of HVAC system do you have?


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