MAKING YOUR OWN INSULATION PANELS
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cmkavalaUser is Offline
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09 Apr 2008 07:14 PM
 Alden B. Dow  (Dow chemical) in 1952 made the first foam SIP
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
JinMTVTUser is Offline
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29 Apr 2008 12:04 AM
Now thinking about "manufacturing" my own sip panels
will be used not as main structural members, but more as helpers
( on 4' supports for roof/floor use )

can anyone point me to correct adhesives that will be structural enough and maintain grip over time ??
i have already talked with Lepage company..should have some answer from them soon i guess
i know that EPS foam is fragile to reaction with almost all VOC stuff
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30 Apr 2011 12:36 AM
number one, there is no worries for protective clothings depending on glue you use, I used to work for a company in ohio making these, all it is, is plywood, doesnt matter what kind, foam, doesnt have to be anything in particular, and glued together, we used vacuum systems to put a stack of the sips together and left in vacuum overnight. its not complicated, usually 4-6 inch wide foam... dont use the spray in kind. find a company that sells that foam in 4ft by 8ft rectangle 4-6 inches wide.... I hate it when people try to jerk others around... we used to cut holes for wireing,,, easy, directions, 1, plywood, 2, glue, 3 place foam, 4 cut holes with heated wires, 5 glue, 6 another piece of plywood... 7 after dry, cut out squares for windows, doors, or angles for plans of house... wow, real complicated... The company I worked for... http://pacemakerplastics.com/index.html
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30 Apr 2011 07:40 AM
tcase;

What was yor job at Pacemaker?, you should also advise how to make the vacuum bags and the cost of the equipment, how a DIY'er would cut wiring chases, how to allow for splines.
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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22 Jul 2013 02:37 AM
After this very long thread I noticed nobody has mentioned some important information if your going to make your own SIP's.

One is that SIP panels are made from OSB2 which is structural OSB. OSB found in typical retail lumber stores is for sheathing and called OSB1. The glue in SIPS uses structural adhesive and most glues including 1 part moisture activated polyurethane and 2 part reactive polyurethane are not structural adhesive or will soften when soaked or become brittle in cold weather so watch out for that. ISOSET which was mentioned earlier is the right stuff. It must be rolled on, and once mixed you have 10 minutes to use it or lose it.

Also instead of going through all the trouble of clamping or using a vacuum press. Just use a pallet of OSB which I assume you would have bought in bulk to make panels. That should be more than a thousand pounds. Then take a forklift and put the pallet on top of the fresh glued panels. You can even add to this by using the forklift to press even further. If you need more pressure, add another pallet on top
When you see the glue beading out of the edges you know you have enough pressure. Wait two hours and presto. Properly bonded evenly pressed panels.

Also keep in mind there are two types of insulation cores which is Polystyrene and the other is Polyurethane which is superior but not available for DIY as far as I can see. ACHFoam makes the proper sized EPS but also EPS for SIP usually has a fire retardant in it. Some SIP manufacturers also dip their OSB boards in termite repellent.



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22 Jul 2013 01:28 PM
If you are going to make your own SIPs, use steel, weld or braze it up to be airtight and then apply a medium vacuum to it. With a decent filler material (fumed silica, perlite?), you can get R50-R80 in a 2" panel. You may need to reapply the vacuum every 10 years (not hard if you put in a valve). Strength? - treat it as non-structural.
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24 Jul 2013 01:23 AM
When it comes to owner-made SIPs, the most appropriate and forgiving adhesive is the Isoset product made by Ashland chemical: http://www.ashland.com/Ashland/Static/Documents/APM/ISOSET%20CX-47%20tds.pdf    Build yourself a home made vacuum tent and apply eight pounds of vacuum per square inch and keep it constant for about two hours and you are in business.
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24 Jul 2013 08:04 AM
Posted By the_postman on 24 Jul 2013 01:23 AM
When it comes to owner-made SIPs, the most appropriate and forgiving adhesive is the Isoset product made by Ashland chemical: http://www.ashland.com/Ashland/Static/Documents/APM/ISOSET%20CX-47%20tds.pdf    Build yourself a home made vacuum tent and apply eight pounds of vacuum per square inch and keep it constant for about two hours and you are in business.



the_postman,

you forgot one very important instruction: TEMPERATURE
to cold and the adhesive will not set in 2 hours and the panels will delaminate
too hot and the adhesive will skin over before it sets, not adhere and delaminate.
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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24 Jul 2013 08:08 AM

it is about as smart as making your own sheets of plywood with skins and glue, or making your own concrete blocks in your back yard
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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24 Jul 2013 10:28 AM
Posted By cmkavala on 24 Jul 2013 08:08 AM

it is about as smart as making your own sheets of plywood with skins and glue, or making your own concrete blocks in your back yard

I agree. You will also notice that those advocating DIY SIPs are people with only 1-2 posts. They make one post and you never hear from them again. Some are disgruntled employees who use to work at a SIP plant.

It's scary to think that people are attempting this and building a structure using backyard methods. Most likely it has to be a place where building codes are not enforced. Wouldn't be surprised to see delaminated and failed panels.


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24 Jul 2013 10:43 AM
It is an absolute insane idea,
Panel companies spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on engineering and testing, a DYI has no accreditation or documentation for building departments, no recourse if it doesn't turn out good,
a vacuum bag is no small endeavor.
not to mention OSB sheets come in 4ft x 24ft or 8ft x 24 ft sheets, steel comes in 6000# coils
it takes a great deal of space and industrial equipment, just to handle the materials
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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24 Jul 2013 02:31 PM
Posted By cmkavala on 24 Jul 2013 10:43 AM
It is an absolute insane idea,
Panel companies spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on engineering and testing, a DYI has no accreditation or documentation for building departments, no recourse if it doesn't turn out good,
a vacuum bag is no small endeavor.
not to mention OSB sheets come in 4ft x 24ft or 8ft x 24 ft sheets, steel comes in 6000# coils
it takes a great deal of space and industrial equipment, just to handle the materials

Excellent points. I have a feeling these "backyard SIPs" are probably worse than Chinese made panels. SIP companies spend hundreds of thousands of dollars, if not millions, into machinery, testing, quality control, etc., to make a panel that will last a very long time. Using stringent QC measures and high end materials.

Throwing some glue onto EPS and weighing them down with blocks in a garage is not a SIP in my book. That one person even mentioned that it doesn't matter what kind of foam you use. So untreated, flammable packing foam is suitable in their book.


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03 Sep 2013 11:00 AM
I agree with the SIP experts who have weighed in here: No, it's impractical to make your own SIPs. But I have a specific non-structural application for a set of insulated doors that I couldn't find commercially available, and it came down to this: Could I make a stiff, flat,light, stressed skin insulated panel door? Here's a link to what I did: http://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&o=U&video_id=9FABz-xEnQA
Passive Solar House, built 2004, ongoing solar thermal experiments
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03 Sep 2013 07:44 PM
Posted By Kevin_in_Denver on 03 Sep 2013 11:00 AM
I agree with the SIP experts who have weighed in here: No, it's impractical to make your own SIPs. But I have a specific non-structural application for a set of insulated doors that I couldn't find commercially available, and it came down to this: Could I make a stiff, flat,light, stressed skin insulated panel door? Here's a link to what I did: http://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&o=U&video_id=9FABz-xEnQA

Link is bad, please try again...
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05 Sep 2013 12:24 AM
Here's that link:
http://youtu.be/9FABz-xEnQA
Passive Solar House, built 2004, ongoing solar thermal experiments
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05 Sep 2013 05:22 AM
Posted By Kevin_in_Denver on 05 Sep 2013 12:24 AM
Here's that link:
http://youtu.be/9FABz-xEnQA



Kevin,
I viewed your process and while it works for a simple door the adhesive did not have full contact with the skins/foam to provide good shear strength needed in SIP walls and roof
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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07 Sep 2013 03:02 AM
<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 Okay, folks, here are the official instructions for making SIP's with Isoset.  It ain't rocket science.  Your best bet is building a vacuum tent the heavy vinyl-coated cloth.  I'll post more information about how to build one of those shortly.  Also, there are ways of applying the Isoset that don't involve purchasing a roll coater - these are very costly.  One option I've considered would be to use a Wagner power roller -- you'd have to do some experiments to figure out how many grams of Isoset the pump pumps per second.  If you started with a roller that's loaded with Isoset and you push the button to actuate the pump and then roll the roller in measured passes, you'd probably get a fairly uniform coating of Isoset. 

I am not suggesting that people make these to sell... If you live in an area where there are no building codes and you don't need to insure your structure, this might be just the ticket for you.


More on vacuum tent design but in the meantime, here you go....


ISOSET ADHESIVE LAMINATING GUIDE FOR STRUCTURAL PANELS

 

INTRODUCTION:  ISOSET is the leading adhesive for producing structural panels.  ISOSET WD3-A322 emulsion resin combined with ISOSET CX-47 crosslinker provides the east of production, rapid and dependable production rates, and long-term durability demanded by the structural panel industry.

 

TYPICAL MATERIALS USED:

 

            Cores:             Expanded or extruded polystyrene, polyurethane, and

                                    isocyanurate foams or honeycomb.

 

            Skins:              Waferboard, oriented strandboard (OSB), particleboard,

                                    gypsum or cementboard, and plywood.

 

            Facings:          Aluminum (backed or primed) and fiberglass reinforced plastic

                                    (FRP). 

 

NOTE:  The mechanism for curing ISOSET adhesives is for water from the glueline to be absorbed into one or both of the substrates being bonded during the pressing time and the period of time after the stack has been removed from the press and allowed to stand.  After the water is absorbed, the crosslinker reacts with the adhesive and crosslinks it.  Because of this requirement, direct foam to metal or foam to plastic laminations cannot be made with ISOSET adhesives because the foam is not porous enough to allow complete absorption of the water from the glueline.

 

SAFETY AND HANDLING:  Workers should wear proper gloves and eye protection while mixing the adhesive.  Gloves are also recommended for workers handling the adhesive coated panels.  Consult Ashland’s Material Safety Data Sheets for health, safety and handling information before using these products.


MIXING INFORMATION:  Add 16.7 parts by weight of ISOSET CX-47 crosslinker to 100 parts of ISOSET WD3-A322 resin emulsion.  Other ISOSET emulsions and crosslinkers are available.  Contact your Ashland representative for more information.

 

Mix slowly until the brown streaks caused by the addition of crosslinker disappear and a uniform tan color is obtained (3 minutes maximum).  Avoid overmixing.  Because of limited pot life, batch size should match the use rate.  Pot life is dependent on temperature; at 70°F a pot life of 120 minutes can be expected.  At temperatures above 90°F, guard against dry-out on the roll coater.


GLUE SPREADER:  The roll grooving for minimum squeeze-out should be 14 x ½ grooves/inch composite (Black Brothers Code A2137).  Wet rollers with water before placing glue on the spreader to facilitate cleanup.

 

SPREAD RATE:  To establish the spread rate, weigh a 1 Sq.Ft. piece of substrate.  Fill the bottom nip of the roll coater and run the test piece through the coater.  After the correct weight has been established, fill the top nip and run additional test pieces through until the correct weight for both sides is established.  Avoid rollback of the adhesive on the test piece, since this will give a false high reading for spread rate.

 

Recommended coating weights for the various composites are as follows:


 

Construction

 

Spread Rate

Coating Weight

1 Sq.Ft. Test Piece

Skins to Foam Core

·         Expanded Polystyrene 1 pcf

 

50-55 lbs/1000 ft2

 

23-25 grams

·         Isocyanurate 1.5 pcf

45-50 lbs/1000 ft2

21-23 grams

·         Extruded Polystyrene 2 pcf

45-50 lbs/1000 ft2

21-23 grams

·         Metal or FRP to Plywood 36 pcf

35-40 lbs/1000 ft2

16-18 grams

 


<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

<!--[if gte mso 9]> Adjust rollers until the correct spread rate is obtained.  At warm temperatures, (>80°F), it will be necessary to increase spread rate to maintain a 25 minute stack time.  At cooler temperatures or shorter assembly times, lower spread rates are possible.

 

ASSEMBLY TIME (STACK TIME):  Once the laminating of the structural panels has started, the maximum time before placing the stack of panels under pressure is 30 minutes.  Allow 25 minutes to build the stack and 5 minutes to place the stack in the press and put it under pressure.  This applies to ambient temperatures of 65°F-75°F.  Higher temperatures will cause dry-out and require a higher spread rate or shorter assembly time.  When bonding OSB or waferboard, the panel temperature should be between 55°F and 80°F.  Keep the open assembly time, when the glueline is fully exposed to the air, below 1 minute.

 

PRESSURE:  The recommended amount of pressure needed to bond foam core panels is dependent on the type, density and thickness tolerance of the foam.  Some initial compression of the foam is desirable, however, compression set should be avoided.  As a general guide use:


<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

<!--[if gte mso 9]>  

Core

Density

Pressure

Expanded Polystyrene

1.0 pcf

5-7 psi

Isocyanurate

1.5 pcf

12-14 psi

Extruded Polystyrene

2.0 pcf

35-40 psi

Plywood

36 pcf

40-50 psi

 

If the adhesive spread rate and pressure are correct, small beads of squeeze-out should be observed around the perimeter of each panel.

 

When using a vacuum bag press for the higher density foams, the tolerances of the foam must be good to obtain intimate contact all over the panel; maximum available pressure must be used.

 

LAMINATING FACE MATERIALS:  The recommended pressure for laminating FRP or metal to OSB or waferboard is 40 psi if done in a separate step.  It is possible to make foam core panels with FRP or metal to wood facings in one step if the foam core can withstand higher pressure.  Successful 5-ply laminations have been made in one step at 10 psi pressure.  Check the foam to be sure that 10 psi pressure does not initiate compression set.  The recommended press times for various core materials are as follows:

 

Foam Core

Press Time

Expanded Polystyrene

45 minutes

Isocyanurate

60 minutes

Extruded Polystyrene

60 minutes

 

Do not laminate at temperatures below 55°F, measured at the glueline.  Add 15 minutes to the above between 55°F and 60°F.

 

DRY-OUT:  If there is a break in the laminating operation for more than 30 minutes, such as during lunch, pour a small amount of water (4 oz.) over each roller to prevent dry-out.  Too much water will alter bond performance and cause delamination.  Do not allow adhesive to dry on the rollers.  If this occurs, cleanup is difficult.

 

When temperature exceeds 80°F, the cure cycle of the adhesive shortens.  Therefore, watch the adhesive on the rollers closely for premature dry-out.  Dry-out can be minimized by keeping the rollcoater nip full of adhesive.

 

PROCESSING INTERACTIONS:  Be aware of the interrelationship between spread rate,  moisture content of the skin, assembly time, temperature and press time.  For example, with a shorter assembly time (e.g. 15 min.), lower spread rates may be used.  Conversely, for longer assembly times, a higher spread rate may be required.  Higher moisture content skins may require lower spread rates and longer press times.  The absorbency of the substrates also influences these variables.  Contact your Ashland Technical Representative for specific processing parameters at your facility.


<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

<!--[if gte mso 9]> CLEAN-UP:  Follow the clean-up procedures recommended by the rollcoater manufacturer.  Warm water (100°F)  makes clean-up easier.  The use of Thermaclean1 resin emulsifier helps reduce cleaning time.  Thoroughly clean rolls, troughs, and in and out feed areas.

Release coatings can facilitate clean-up of metal surfaces.  The use of Bates Boothcoating2 or Product No. 6273 has been successful

 

 

1Trademark, Cook Composites & Polymers, Heath, OH; Phone:  (614) 929-2866

2Trademark, U.S. Coatings Corporation, Buffalo, NY; Phone: (716) 833-9366

3Trademark, Associated Chemists, Portland, OR; Phone: (503) 659-1708

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
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07 Sep 2013 05:44 AM
Posted By the_postman on 07 Sep 2013 03:02 AM
<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 Okay, folks, here are the official instructions for making SIP's with Isoset.  It ain't rocket science.  Your best bet is building a vacuum tent the heavy vinyl-coated cloth.  I'll post more information about how to build one of those shortly.  Also, there are ways of applying the Isoset that don't involve purchasing a roll coater - these are very costly.  One option I've considered would be to use a Wagner power roller -- you'd have to do some experiments to figure out how many grams of Isoset the pump pumps per second.  If you started with a roller that's loaded with Isoset and you push the button to actuate the pump and then roll the roller in measured passes, you'd probably get a fairly uniform coating of Isoset. 

I am not suggesting that people make these to sell... If you live in an area where there are no building codes and you don't need to insure your structure, this might be just the ticket for you.


More on vacuum tent design but in the meantime, here you go....


ISOSET ADHESIVE LAMINATING GUIDE FOR STRUCTURAL PANELS

 

INTRODUCTION:  ISOSET is the leading adhesive for producing structural panels.  ISOSET WD3-A322 emulsion resin combined with ISOSET CX-47 crosslinker provides the east of production, rapid and dependable production rates, and long-term durability demanded by the structural panel industry.

 

TYPICAL MATERIALS USED:

 

            Cores:             Expanded or extruded polystyrene, polyurethane, and

                                    isocyanurate foams or honeycomb.

 

            Skins:              Waferboard, oriented strandboard (OSB), particleboard,

                                    gypsum or cementboard, and plywood.

 

            Facings:          Aluminum (backed or primed) and fiberglass reinforced plastic

                                    (FRP). 

 

NOTE:  The mechanism for curing ISOSET adhesives is for water from the glueline to be absorbed into one or both of the substrates being bonded during the pressing time and the period of time after the stack has been removed from the press and allowed to stand.  After the water is absorbed, the crosslinker reacts with the adhesive and crosslinks it.  Because of this requirement, direct foam to metal or foam to plastic laminations cannot be made with ISOSET adhesives because the foam is not porous enough to allow complete absorption of the water from the glueline.

 

SAFETY AND HANDLING:  Workers should wear proper gloves and eye protection while mixing the adhesive.  Gloves are also recommended for workers handling the adhesive coated panels.  Consult Ashland’s Material Safety Data Sheets for health, safety and handling information before using these products.


MIXING INFORMATION:  Add 16.7 parts by weight of ISOSET CX-47 crosslinker to 100 parts of ISOSET WD3-A322 resin emulsion.  Other ISOSET emulsions and crosslinkers are available.  Contact your Ashland representative for more information.

 

Mix slowly until the brown streaks caused by the addition of crosslinker disappear and a uniform tan color is obtained (3 minutes maximum).  Avoid overmixing.  Because of limited pot life, batch size should match the use rate.  Pot life is dependent on temperature; at 70°F a pot life of 120 minutes can be expected.  At temperatures above 90°F, guard against dry-out on the roll coater.


GLUE SPREADER:  The roll grooving for minimum squeeze-out should be 14 x ½ grooves/inch composite (Black Brothers Code A2137).  Wet rollers with water before placing glue on the spreader to facilitate cleanup.

 

SPREAD RATE:  To establish the spread rate, weigh a 1 Sq.Ft. piece of substrate.  Fill the bottom nip of the roll coater and run the test piece through the coater.  After the correct weight has been established, fill the top nip and run additional test pieces through until the correct weight for both sides is established.  Avoid rollback of the adhesive on the test piece, since this will give a false high reading for spread rate.

 

Recommended coating weights for the various composites are as follows:


 

Construction

 

Spread Rate

Coating Weight

1 Sq.Ft. Test Piece

Skins to Foam Core

·         Expanded Polystyrene 1 pcf

 

50-55 lbs/1000 ft2

 

23-25 grams

·         Isocyanurate 1.5 pcf

45-50 lbs/1000 ft2

21-23 grams

·         Extruded Polystyrene 2 pcf

45-50 lbs/1000 ft2

21-23 grams

·         Metal or FRP to Plywood 36 pcf

35-40 lbs/1000 ft2

16-18 grams

 


<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

<!--[if gte mso 9]> Adjust rollers until the correct spread rate is obtained.  At warm temperatures, (>80°F), it will be necessary to increase spread rate to maintain a 25 minute stack time.  At cooler temperatures or shorter assembly times, lower spread rates are possible.

 

ASSEMBLY TIME (STACK TIME):  Once the laminating of the structural panels has started, the maximum time before placing the stack of panels under pressure is 30 minutes.  Allow 25 minutes to build the stack and 5 minutes to place the stack in the press and put it under pressure.  This applies to ambient temperatures of 65°F-75°F.  Higher temperatures will cause dry-out and require a higher spread rate or shorter assembly time.  When bonding OSB or waferboard, the panel temperature should be between 55°F and 80°F.  Keep the open assembly time, when the glueline is fully exposed to the air, below 1 minute.

 

PRESSURE:  The recommended amount of pressure needed to bond foam core panels is dependent on the type, density and thickness tolerance of the foam.  Some initial compression of the foam is desirable, however, compression set should be avoided.  As a general guide use:


<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

<!--[if gte mso 9]>  

Core

Density

Pressure

Expanded Polystyrene

1.0 pcf

5-7 psi

Isocyanurate

1.5 pcf

12-14 psi

Extruded Polystyrene

2.0 pcf

35-40 psi

Plywood

36 pcf

40-50 psi

 

If the adhesive spread rate and pressure are correct, small beads of squeeze-out should be observed around the perimeter of each panel.

 

When using a vacuum bag press for the higher density foams, the tolerances of the foam must be good to obtain intimate contact all over the panel; maximum available pressure must be used.

 

LAMINATING FACE MATERIALS:  The recommended pressure for laminating FRP or metal to OSB or waferboard is 40 psi if done in a separate step.  It is possible to make foam core panels with FRP or metal to wood facings in one step if the foam core can withstand higher pressure.  Successful 5-ply laminations have been made in one step at 10 psi pressure.  Check the foam to be sure that 10 psi pressure does not initiate compression set.  The recommended press times for various core materials are as follows:

 

Foam Core

Press Time

Expanded Polystyrene

45 minutes

Isocyanurate

60 minutes

Extruded Polystyrene

60 minutes

 

Do not laminate at temperatures below 55°F, measured at the glueline.  Add 15 minutes to the above between 55°F and 60°F.

 

DRY-OUT:  If there is a break in the laminating operation for more than 30 minutes, such as during lunch, pour a small amount of water (4 oz.) over each roller to prevent dry-out.  Too much water will alter bond performance and cause delamination.  Do not allow adhesive to dry on the rollers.  If this occurs, cleanup is difficult.

 

When temperature exceeds 80°F, the cure cycle of the adhesive shortens.  Therefore, watch the adhesive on the rollers closely for premature dry-out.  Dry-out can be minimized by keeping the rollcoater nip full of adhesive.

 

PROCESSING INTERACTIONS:  Be aware of the interrelationship between spread rate,  moisture content of the skin, assembly time, temperature and press time.  For example, with a shorter assembly time (e.g. 15 min.), lower spread rates may be used.  Conversely, for longer assembly times, a higher spread rate may be required.  Higher moisture content skins may require lower spread rates and longer press times.  The absorbency of the substrates also influences these variables.  Contact your Ashland Technical Representative for specific processing parameters at your facility.


<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

<!--[if gte mso 9]> CLEAN-UP:  Follow the clean-up procedures recommended by the rollcoater manufacturer.  Warm water (100°F)  makes clean-up easier.  The use of Thermaclean1 resin emulsifier helps reduce cleaning time.  Thoroughly clean rolls, troughs, and in and out feed areas.

Release coatings can facilitate clean-up of metal surfaces.  The use of Bates Boothcoating2 or Product No. 6273 has been successful

 

 

1Trademark, Cook Composites & Polymers, Heath, OH; Phone:  (614) 929-2866

2Trademark, U.S. Coatings Corporation, Buffalo, NY; Phone: (716) 833-9366

3Trademark, Associated Chemists, Portland, OR; Phone: (503) 659-1708

<!--[if gte mso 9]>



You forgot to include the STAPLES "That was Easy " Button
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07 Sep 2013 07:52 PM
Posted By the_postman on 07 Sep 2013 03:02 AM
<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 I am not suggesting that people make these to sell... If you live in an area where there are no building codes and you don't need to insure your structure, this might be just the ticket for you.



So in other words, if you are building a structure that puts the safety of its occupants into jeopardy of death or serious injury due to a poorly built structure that is capable of collapsing upon its occupants, "this might be just the ticket for you."





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07 Dec 2013 03:13 AM
Greetings everyone, This is my first post. I just recently found this site during my research into sips. I am planning to build a house soon and I want to use other than conventional framing methods. This will be the second house I built. The first was using ICF's which I enjoyed using. I had never worked construction prior to building this house and at the time, the only real experience I had in carpentry was some remodeling work on the first house I bought. I designed the house, drew the plans even, and did about 90% of the construction of house myself while working full time. The house turned out great and passed all inspections with no problems. Here is where I am going with this post. Before starting this project I did a lot of research. I talked to a lot of people. I built the first ICF house in my county and I have a very difficult building department. Here is the thing. I did it when "professionals" told me I shouldn't. Now I am contemplating building with SIPS. This string has me considering building my own SIPS well not SIPS but insulated panels because I am using a log frame structure. I have learned alot from this discussion and will do more research before I decide to either build my own panels or buy from a manufacture. There are some people in the SIPs industry using this site to talk down to those considering building their own SIPs. I will never consider buying any products from you or your company you are a part of. Get off your high horse. Its you people that are giving the SIPS industry a bad name. Not us who are considering building something ourselves. Oh and heres news for you industry guys... I know there are people on this site that can DIY build better panels than you sell...Stop treating people like they are morons... Blayden
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