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geodean
Registered Users
Posts:651
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| 05/03/2008 12:16 AM |
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We install geothermal systems. I am working on a project where the radiant contractor is saying that he needs 160° F water for radiant under a wood floor.
I have been under the impression that water that hot can damage the wood.
Can anyone point me to some info that I can give the home owner about doing radiant with water temps of 110 - 115 ° F/
Thanks in advance
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Dewayne Dean
PalaceGeothermal.com
Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
We heat and cool with dirt!
visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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singh
Registered Users
Posts:3
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| 05/04/2008 8:47 AM |
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| First find out if radiant contractor has done a room by room heat loss. That will give you the supply temps needed. 160* water temps is pretty high for any radiant system , imo.
Surface temperatures of wood floor should be in the 80*-85* range. This is not the same as fluid supply temperatures.
As you know GSHP efficiencies drop off above 115* and all measures should be taken to design a RFH system around or below that.
First look at building envelope, has everything within economic reason been done to decrease heat load? (windows,insulation etc)
Then method of tubing installation should be looked into such as tighter tubing spaces, and/or above floor sandwich vs. below floor staple up with out plates. The latter may justify 160* temps.
Check out the radiant panel association for more information and resources.
Good Luck.
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Devan Singh
www.singhmechanical.com |
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BillN
Registered Users
Posts:38
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| 05/24/2008 10:12 PM |
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| I would say that 160 is the absolute maximum you would want to go in a staple up application. I would hope that 160 is the max upper limit for a reset loop. If the 160 deg water was cycled with a zone valve, you could have expansion problems and noise. |
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NRT.Rob
Registered Users
Posts:386
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| 05/25/2008 10:56 PM |
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I am guessing they are not planning on using plates.
they need them. big heavy ones. even that is likely to need 120 if you need 160 without plates, so some supplemental or an alternate method may be required if max COP is the goal.
Frankly YOU are the best arguement for low temperature heating. I.E. "if it's not 110, you don't want to use geo, and geo is your best choice". Beyond that 160 also limits efficiency of mod/con boilers, eliminates solar.. basically it restricts you to a conventional boiler. people have seen fuel costs lately, right? ;) |
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-=Northeast Radiant Technology=-
NRTradiant.com |
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BadgerBoilerMN
Registered Users
Posts:96
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| 06/04/2008 10:33 AM |
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I have many systems- new and old construction- running at 180F. Restrictions on water temperatures have more to do with contractor liability than real world problems. There are floor coverings that will suffer but it is not the case that all floors subjected to 180F staple up will fail. I design mainly low temperature (below 140F) to accommodate Mod/Con boiler performance, but if my customer wants existing floors radiated, I tell him the risk (low) and crank up the heat. In most residential applications minute water temperature control has sharply diminishing returns. When in doubt I use extruded aluminum emission plates lowering the average water temperature, raising response time and doubling the cost of installation.
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MA
www.badgerboilerservice.com |
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