TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 19 Nov 2008 11:39 PM |
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I don’t give negative recommendations for contractors lightly. After all the problems and screw ups the contractor did, I never identified that actual company that did the installation, but I can only take so much. When I ordered the system I had emergency heat installed, but I specifically told the sales person and told the installer several times I did not want the emergency heat to kick on, ever. I only wanted it installed so I would have heat in a situation such as the water pump died, I would have some heat until it could be fixed. Well the power failed tonight, it was off roughly 3 hours, after the power came back on, the house temperature was 59 degrees, roughly 9 degrees below what I normally keep the system set at. Ok no problem, the system will just take longer to catch up, but I noticed 30 minutes later, it’s 68 degrees in the house already. Way too quick for a geothermal system, I check the heat coming out from the heating vents and its HOT, I check the unit and its hot on the top where it’s blowing the air into the house. Well I’m really pissed at this point, I stressed exactly what I wanted and the contractor didn’t deliver. After looking at the wiring diagram, I identified the dip switch what needed to be turned off to prevent the aux heat from kicking on and flipped it. So I don’t think it will happen again. If your looking for a Heating Contractor in South Jersey, I can not recommend Laury Heating of Vineland New Jersey. |
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tuffluckdriller
 Advanced Member
 Posts:630

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| 20 Nov 2008 12:31 AM |
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Strip heat is necessary, and should automatically be controlled to come on. Based on the load of your house and the capacity of the geothermal, your system has a balance point. A simple outdoor sensor setup should be installed to dis-allow the electric heat to be energized until the outdoor temp gets down to or below balance point. You should not just completely disable the strip heat. You could end up over-using the ground loop, and in turn decrease efficiency and capacity. |
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| Clark Timothy ([email protected])<br>Geothermal Heat Pumps: Heating and Cooling that's Dirt Cheap!<br>www.pinksgeothermal.com |
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 20 Nov 2008 12:55 AM |
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The system is an open loop, what i want is a system that runs effiecency as possible, Im not concerned that it will take the system a little longer to recover when the temperature is below normal. Besides I leave it at a set temperature now, unless there's a power failure like I had today, there should be no reason for it to drop more than a degree or two below the set temp. |
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 20 Nov 2008 05:18 AM |
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It's not hard to keep the strips from coming on.
Then again, I'd be careful doing so since the house seems to cool fast - 9 degrees in 3 hours is a rapid drop, and official winter is still a month away. |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 20 Nov 2008 07:41 AM |
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I would have killed the breaker for the aux. heater vs getting in to the cabinet. You are not the only one with open loop who has em. heat only. My electrician never turns his on and there are many around here (not my installs) with no back-up heat. Folks, don't try this with closed loop. J |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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Bill Neukranz
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1103
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| 20 Nov 2008 09:55 AM |
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Posted By joe.ami on 11/20/2008 7:41 AM I would have killed the breaker for the aux. heater vs getting in to the cabinet. For some manufacturers / models, you can't disable the aux heater at the CB box w/o simultaneously disabling the whole unit. Such is the case for WaterFurnace's Envision models. A wiring change inside the unit, and contrary to WF printed instructions internal to the unit, is required to accomplish on/off control of the aux heater by simply disablying the aux heater's CB. Best regards, Bill |
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Energy reduction & monitoring</br> American Energy Efficiencies, Inc - Dallas, TX <A href="http://www.americaneei.com"> (www.americaneei.com)</A></br> Example monitoring system: <A href="http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043"> www.welserver.com/WEL0043</A>
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 20 Nov 2008 11:36 AM |
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Posted By a0128958 on 11/20/2008 9:55 AM
Posted By joe.ami on 11/20/2008 7:41 AM I would have killed the breaker for the aux. heater vs getting in to the cabinet. For some manufacturers / models, you can't disable the aux heater at the CB box w/o simultaneously disabling the whole unit. Such is the case for WaterFurnace's Envision models. A wiring change inside the unit, and contrary to WF printed instructions internal to the unit, is required to accomplish on/off control of the aux heater by simply disablying the aux heater's CB. Best regards, Bill Bill's Right, the same circuit that operates the Aux heat also is for the blower, it's not possible to just disable the circuit. As for the house cooling off in 3 hours, It was in the 20's last night, it's pretty close to the temperatures we usually experence for winter in New Jersey. 20 Degrees is normal winter weather, our low's rarely get into the teens even at night. |
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IndyGEO
 New Member
 Posts:17
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| 26 Nov 2008 12:59 PM |
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I would have killed the breaker for the aux. heater vs getting in to the cabinet. You are not the only one with open loop who has em. heat only. My electrician never turns his on and there are many around here (not my installs) with no back-up heat.----------
Folks, don't try this with closed loop.------------
OK, I will bite. Why would you do this with a open loop and not a closed loop? |
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 26 Nov 2008 09:28 PM |
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If your aux heater does not have it's own circuit then obviously disregard my last. For Indy (not TG). Closed loop systems in my neck of the woods are much more tightly designed than open. I suggest any one should consult with the designer/installer before altering system operation. We routinely design aux heaters in as 2nd or 3rd stage heat (for closed systems in particular) as additional tonnage costs in excavation, equipment and duct requirements. J |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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IndyGEO
 New Member
 Posts:17
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| 27 Nov 2008 10:23 AM |
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Posted By joe.ami on 11/26/2008 9:28 PM If your aux heater does not have it's own circuit then obviously disregard my last. For Indy (not TG). Closed loop systems in my neck of the woods are much more tightly designed than open. I suggest any one should consult with the designer/installer before altering system operation. We routinely design aux heaters in as 2nd or 3rd stage heat (for closed systems in particular) as additional tonnage costs in excavation, equipment and duct requirements. J
Ok, We design them the same. Most systems in indiana are closed anyway. Poor water quality and in most of the state not enough for a open loop. For the most part the performance of open loop and closed loop are the same ( depending on closed loop design and open loop well water quality). What is good for one is usually good for the other. |
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