I got the heat loss calc done, did a well pump test, and most of the ductwork (retrofit) is done. The HP is ready for hookup.

These are the before shots. The technician comes today.

Insulation on ductwork?

Looks like it's in conditioned space and probably has internal (acoustic) insulation if it's anything like the ductwork I have. I don't get any problems with the ducts sweating in the cooling season.

Paul.

I dont see the grip nail dimples

My ducts don't have any visible either - but there's definitely acoustic insulation on the inside.

I'll see if I can dig out any photos if we don't hear anything from the OP.

Paul.

I appreciate your comments on this install.
Yes, it's in condtioned space and the ducts have acoustical inside for 10 feet each way (glued and pinned)

I'll try to add another pic of today's plumbing if I can figure out how to reduce the pic sizes. It took me long enough to get them down to 100kb. :-)

Day 2 - HP plumbing added -

What does each control do???

(Note: extra water-out outlet.)

- and here's a pic of the acoustic insulation.

I figured the ductwork had inside insulation but it couldn't hurt to ask.

Never hurts to ask.

We can't figure out how to add air that is silent(to prevent a vaccum) on the out going water line .

Any ideas???

Flow raters are noisier than vacuum break. Put both outside and noise is no problem.
J

That's a good idea about putting the air intake outside but the line exits under basement floor and continues 4' under for 100'.

I thought you might enjoy seeing the finished install by Jack's Heat Pumps.

Is she purring? Is it open loop? where are you dumping?

Seems to be working fine. I do notice my water pump cycles more often as should be expected ...at least in stage one. I'm thinking of replacing my 25 year old submersible with a Grundfos variable speed deep well pump.

As what happens to the water after I take 10 degrees off it, I can either dump to a leaching field or my pond.
Thanks for the question.

Could you describe the leaching field required for your setup?

My well is 120' deep and rated at 30+GPM (they never did get it to run dry). I think an open system would be the most cost effective solution for our house. having completed the install, doyou have any advice for someone considering an open system? 

Advice you ask...

My best advice is to read every entry on this forum as well as http://forum.geoexchange.org. You won’t be long picking out the experts.

They will insist that you do a house heat loss calculation first, get quotes from contractors that have experience and training, make sure that your ductwork is a match for low temp high volume air and get to know someone who has a geothermal furnace.

A water-to-air system has its own specific challenges including water quality, pumping rate on a continuous level - no guess work, regulations in your area for spent water (second well or leaching field), electricity rates ( a loop system only uses a fractional motor to circulate the water).

I’m new at this and will add my thoughts after using my new system for a year.

Thanks GreenBuildingTalk

Dancour, the picture of the plumbing shows, two valves for the outgoing water. I assume you are set for different flow rates for each stage (the plumbing is different than the WF IM1585.pdf installation manual).

What are the flow rates for each stage?

Thanks, Rob

Looks like a great job.
Glad you gave props to your installer "Jacks heat pumps", Dancour. It is clearly the work of a pro.
One question, when is the tax credit qualifying desuperheater going to be hooked up?
J

You asked about when the DSH is going to be hooked up.

I'm still puzzled about the best way to do it. I know that a preheat tank is on the list but as for size or locations for connections, I'm at a loss. WF says this way. Any sugesstions?

Dancour,

That is the best way to pipe a desuperheater to your Geo.
They don't mention to remove whatever backfow preventer is in the dip tube of the first tank.

Bergy

We actually feed ours from the top down but either will work.
J