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shearers
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Posts:7
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| 11/24/2008 3:28 PM |
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It was set at Auto, and I changed it to Programable after reading the manual to see if that made a difference - which it did not.
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johncomyn
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Posts:23
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| 11/24/2008 3:36 PM |
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Something seems wrong, the temperature at the grill should at least be close to the room temperature if only the fan is running. With a temperature of 12 C, sound more like it is running in A/C mode not Heating mode. With that temp at this time of year it would cool things down quite fast.
John |
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shearers
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| 11/24/2008 3:59 PM |
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The Mode is definitely set to Heat. I will try to contact the installer. I have looked at the Mode and the Fan, are there other settings than can make the Fan operate?
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geodean
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Posts:1085
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| 11/24/2008 8:01 PM |
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Posted By shearers on 11/24/2008 2:25 PM
I have a Tranquility 27 installed Oct 3, 2008 and have questions about whether it is functioning properly.
The thermastat is set at 18 celcius (64F). Now that the outside temp is -10 to 0, the fan runs constantly even when the thermastat reads 18 C. The temp of the air coming from the grills is 12 C (53 F). This cool air movement makes the room uncomfortable even though it is at the set temperature of 18 C. Is this the Stage 1 function of the furnace, or is there a problem with the system? When the furnace kicks in, the air temp from the grills is 25 C and the air movement does not chill the house.
Anyway, is this the way the furnace operates, or is there some way to stop the cool air movement?
As stated above, the fan should not run when the heat pump is off. Either the setting on the thermostat is wrong or the thermostat is wired wrong.
If you need help with this let us know.
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Dewayne Dean
PalaceGeothermal.com
Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
We heat and cool with dirt!
visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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geodean
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Posts:1085
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| 11/24/2008 8:44 PM |
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Posted By tsmithks on 11/24/2008 12:03 PM
Is this overkill?
I live in southern Kansas. It gets hot and humid in the summer and windy and cold in the winter. I am in the planning stages for a new home. The home will either be an ICF house or standard 2x4 construction with closed cell foam in the walls. Full basement, not a view out to limit heat loss through windows. Double pane vinyl windows and I will spray closed cell foam on every opening in the ceiling drywall. (We live in a 100+ year old house and are tired of drafts.)
My brother-in-law just installed a Climate Master Tranquility 27 and loves it in his older home. Although the water coming out of the unit in the summer is luke warm, indicating to us that the unit may be oversized for the application. There are a few things I want to do and I am just wanting an opinion to see if this is overkill.
1. Install the Tranquility 27 mainly for the A/C. I will use the hot water heater option to pre-heat water for a Rheem on-demand hot water heater. In the fall and spring, we usually open the house up for 2-3 months for each season, so the unit would not run continuously, thereby limiting hot water availaility from the unit. Thus the need for the on-demand hot water heater.
2. Install radiant floor heat and use the heat pump for a back-up or supplemental heat souce in the winter ro to keep the radiant floor heated air circulating via the fan only option. We are planning on installing the radiant floor heating in the basement and the main floor and will employ a professional contractor to install it and the solid wood flooring. (I can DIY the installation of the hardwood floor, but I want someone to go back on if they hit a water line in the floor heating system.)
The configuration I am looking at uses two wells, one for supply one to dump the water back into. (This is allowed in Kansas if the sytem is a closed system.) I have not seen any discussion regarding the efficiency of the different systems ( horiz. loop, vert. loop or open loops. Does anyone have any experience or information on the different types of ground sources? I have found the thread about the horiz. v. vert loops, but not about the open source configuration.
Thanks in advance for your opinions and help. This website has been a wealth of information.
Terry Smith Hi Terry,
If I were doing this, I would install a combo heat pump that will give you both hot and cold air as well as hot water for your radiant system.
A pump and dump well system works fine as long as there is good water quality. If you have the wells already then it makes good sense financially. If you have to drill two deep wells just for the heat pumps, then the finances are not quite as attractive. I would get bids for both open and closed loop so you can make a decision based on number.
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Dewayne Dean
PalaceGeothermal.com
Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
We heat and cool with dirt!
visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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Masoud
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:116
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| 11/24/2008 8:58 PM |
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Shearers:
I suspect a humidity / thermostat bug exists. Do you have a Climatemaster ATP32U02, or perhaps another thermostat with a humidity sensor on your system?
Regards, Masoud |
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shearers
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:7
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| 11/25/2008 9:28 AM |
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The thermostat is a Climatemaster ATP32U02 and does have a humidity sensor. Is there a setting change that I can make for the humidity on the thermastat?
I do have the installer coming out some time this week, and will let you know what the problem is - assuming there is one identified and fixed. Thanks for all the help so far.
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Masoud
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:116
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| 11/25/2008 10:44 AM |
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Shearers:
Yes there is. The tstat has settings for both humidification and dehumidification. If you do not have a humidifier on your system, here is how to stop blowing cool air.
Look at the bottom line of the tstat. Use the left or right arrow on tstat to highlight RH (relative humidity). Press the center button on the tstat. HUMIDITY SETTING highlights on tsat. Press the square center button on the tstat
again. The humidity setting shows up. Use the down arrow to set it at the lowest possible (%10). Press the center square button to save this setting. This will prevent the blower fan turning on trying to increase humidity, if there is not a humidifier on your system.
Now you can do the opposite for dehumidifier. Start from highlighting RH. Press the square center button. Press the down arrow to highlight DEHUMID SETTING. Press the square center button. Dehumd setting shows up as a number. Press the up arrow to set dehumid as high as possible(%80.) Press square center button to save this. This setting will prevent the blower from coming on trying to dehumidify.
If you have a humidifier on your system, try to set the tstat MODE on HEAT. Set humidity at the desired level. Also set the DEHUMID option way up (%80.) This will prevent the blower from coming on trying to dehumidify. I Hope this works.
Regards, Masoud
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shearers
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Posts:7
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| 11/25/2008 3:50 PM |
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Masoud,
Thanks for the instructions. I will change the settings when I get home tonight and hope this works. Will let you know. |
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shearers
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:7
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| 11/26/2008 9:24 AM |
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Masoud,
Thank you so much for your directions on setting the RH on the Thermastat. It worked perfectly. As soon as I saved the new settings, the fan shut off and has not come on since.
This should improve the energy efficiency. It was counter productive to have the furnace heat the space and the fan cool the space?
I will be looking for information on how to optimize the other settings on the thermastat. Is anyone aware of a source of this type of information.
Thank you so much for your help. |
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joe.ami
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Veteran Member
Posts:1418
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| 11/26/2008 9:45 PM |
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Couple of thoughts;
Fans running constantly may have hidden consequence due to inexpensive ventilation air systems. If someone has a standard make-up air (4-6" pipe to outside or barometric Skuttle), lengthy fan cycles can turn house temp away from desired if compressor is not on. This is an important concern for retrofit folks.
Not a huge fan of the Climatemaster thermostat, prefer the Honeywell 8000. None of them will out perform the installer's programming.
Zone systems do actually limit some of your operational choices. Most things are trade-offs and zone controllers by and large have less features than high end heat pumps or the thermostats that control them. There are high end zone systems as well, of course, but in todays retrofit market the old K.I.S.S. principle seems to sell better (and create less call backs).
J |
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Just a Mechanic;
Geothermal; Savings Underfoot |
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Cincy Mark
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Posts:21
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| 12/07/2008 11:28 PM |
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| I have had a Tranquility 27 for about a year now with varying success. I live in Cincinnati, and once the temperature gets to 20 or below, the unit struggles to keep the house close to 68 - 70. Right now, the input water temp is around 48-50 degrees. The output temperature on the floor vents are around 85 degrees or so at stage 1. When the unit kicks into stage 2, i expected the output temperature to jump to the 90's, but it pretty much stays the same. Should I not expect a temperature jump when the second stage kicks in? |
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project_x
Registered Users
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Posts:56
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| 12/08/2008 12:08 AM |
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| CincyMark,
You should see an increase in total heat output not temp itself. Since the fan speed increases, the temp delivered is cooler, but more flow in 2nd stage. |
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Cincy Mark
Registered Users
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Posts:21
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| 12/08/2008 6:25 AM |
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Could there be another setting to generate a higher output temp? I am pretty dissappointed in the unit if it is not capable of keeping my house at 69 degrees inside while 20 degrees or so outside. I cant imagine what it will be like when it is 0 or so outside. I do have a bigger house, but thought this was the top of the line unit. |
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project_x
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:56
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| 12/08/2008 6:34 AM |
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| Your system should be designed to keep your house warm past 20F. I was just noting that marginally hotter vent temp didn't necessarily indicate 2nd stage wasn't working.
I have a similar experience with my WF Envision. My 2nd stage is broken, and I get a colder temp out of the vent (but the same heater energy as single stage) due to the increase in blower speed. Last night, the dip to -6F caused my furnace to finally attempt 2nd stage (which it couldn't do) and ultimately my temp dipped enough so I had to turn the Aux heat on (I usually have it turned off). Mine is keeping up with a minimal amount of Aux backup.
Cheers,
Rob |
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geodean
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Veteran Member
Posts:1085
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| 12/08/2008 8:04 AM |
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| Cincy, It is possible that the second stage is not really coming on. I have seen systems where the thermostat says second stage, but the compressor does not shift to second stage. Are there lights on your unit that indicate what stages are on? |
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Dewayne Dean
PalaceGeothermal.com
Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
We heat and cool with dirt!
visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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Ona
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:130
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| 12/08/2008 8:37 AM |
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| Cincy ~ I had a similar problem just a couple of weeks ago. It turned out that the dip switches within the unit were not set properly. So, even though my tstat was telling me that it was calling for Stage 2, it was never actually working. My unit was trying to heat my house in 20 degree weather with only the Stage 1! I would ask your contractor to come out and ensure that the system is set correctly. Either way, the contractor needs to check it out. Since my problem has been fixed I've had no issues. |
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Ona
just trying to make my old home better
www.geochoices.com |
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Cincy Mark
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New Member
Posts:21
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| 12/08/2008 8:37 AM |
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| I have checked the circuit board to make sure the second stage is on, and sure enough the y2 light is on so it should be running. Last year when I checked, the second stage did give us a significant boost in temperature. I am not sure what to do or test at this point, but am pretty frustrated with the unit. Is there a table somewhere on line that anyone knows of that predicts the output temp based on an input temp? |
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geodean
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Veteran Member
Posts:1085
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| 12/08/2008 8:42 AM |
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| You could test the loop water temp going into and out of the heat pump. Second stage is running will remove more heat from the water. |
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Dewayne Dean
PalaceGeothermal.com
Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
We heat and cool with dirt!
visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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geodean
Registered Users
Veteran Member
Posts:1085
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| 12/08/2008 8:43 AM |
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Here is a link to the manual for Climate Master Two Stage Units
Does your fan speed increase when the unit goes to second stage?
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Dewayne Dean
PalaceGeothermal.com
Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
We heat and cool with dirt!
visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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