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emilito
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 08/28/2008 8:09 PM |
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Hello everyone. This is my first post, so a bit of introduction is in order so excuse the length of this post. I am a biologist by training employed as an energy consultant in Washington, DC. Always wanted to be an architect, but nature is my first calling. I'm fairly young, currently unmarried and without children (is my girlfriend reading?) I make a decent salary, and it appears the banks might take a chance in helping me to build my first house even in this period of financial turmoil. Being a desk-jocky nearly all my life, I have only a little experience with building.
My father and the guys that helped raised me are all competent builders, all having either built or done most of the finish work on their own homes. We've got good genes for that, I hope. My father is retired, and is a certified electrician and welder, amongst other things. I've helped him a great deal on many building projects, but that's helped, not gone it alone. We've done everything from hoisting roof trusses to pouring concrete floors, installing wiring, redoing bathrooms on his rental properties, etc. So, I know it can be done, have seen it done, and done it myself. I know a little and could stand to learn much, more more. He and his friends have agreed to help, even though they live about 2.5 hours from my proposed site. However, I'm inspired by you folks and others on these vast internets doing this kind of thing every day.
Now in the course of my daily workload, I work with residents and small businesses in helping them achieve energy efficiency in their homes and small businesses, so I know the technologies and have seen them in action. My goal now is to stop renting and get into a home, a green home that I've helped build myself. My mortgage guy has been really helpful and thinks my idea might work. Luckily, I found this site and would like to run the basics by you to see if I'm getting in over my head. A fan of research, I've been planning this for about two years, and tried to consider every detail from a holistic standpoint.
I've found quite a few urban infill lots in my area and in my price range. For the sake of argument, let's go with 6,500 sq ft, with the home sited for passive solar gain at the rear. Electric, sewer and water are pre-existing as they've all had homes on the site. I've been taken with the Katrina Cottages from Lowes, specifically the KC1200 square foot model-http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pg&p=2006_landing/Katrina_Cottage/KC_1200.html. It's 2-stories, 3 bedroom, 2 bath. I have a modified version with a more open plan that I will post once I figure it out. One major problem is the master suite is on the south side so would limit passive heating quite a bit, at least for the main portion of the home. I'm not wedded to this home, but I like the simple styling and affordable quoted price of about $55/sq ft for materials. It seems I'll simply end up with a hybrid anyway, but that's another discussion. (The Rocio Romero modern LV is another choice, and the site lists a lot of cost estimates that help in planning).
Something around 1200 sq ft seems a good size for a single guy or young family. I do plan to move in 5 years or so, but would like to retain this home for trips to "the city." It's a traditional, almost farmhouse like home, but I would like it to be completely modern on the inside. In speaking with local colleagues in the green building industry (we have no shortage of "experts" here), I'm getting a good sense of the costs for this hypothetical net-zero energy modern farmhouse in the city. Folks are already lined up to get my money (architects, GC's, renewable energy contractors), but I've had long relationships with many of them so I know their motives are (mainly) good.
The major features are:
- ICF basement under the main section of the house (pool table, bar, small aquarium area, utility room, washer/dryer, storage)
- SIP walls and roof (1st and 2nd floors, attic storage)
- Galvalume standing seam roof (possibly with up to 1.5 kilowatts of thin-film photovoltaics via rebates & tax credits)
- Dawn solar under-foof solar thermal hot water supplying radiant heat to the basement(?) and main floors
- Whole house tankless water heater (nat gas) pulling from the solar system
- Backup baseboard heat (electric resistance) and maybe a really small fireplace as a centerpiece
- Low-e windows with large proportions (like the Georgian Revival homes in my hometown)
- Wraparound porch (I like porches)
- Ceiling fans everywhere (I also like ceiling fans)
- Reclaimed hardwood floors, sinks, fixtures etc from the local salvage store
- Basic Ikea cabinets
- Simple furnishings from my current place (a mix of mid-century modern, American colonial, and contemporary pieces)
- Nice architectural flourishes like a marble kitchen countertop (small, open kitchen) and floating staircase with a glass face (the code guys *think* it's ok, today)
- Energy Star appliances, CFLs, and LEDs
Now I'm fairly good at finding deals, so finishing isn't a huge worry, and can be done over a period of years after work and on weekends. I plan on getting a GC to cover the basics (site prep, foundation work, erecting the walls and roof) then sub out the rest or do it myself with friends and family. I'm worried about is converting these stick-built drawings to SIPS, and the price differential I'll encounter using ICF/SIP construction. I've found a local green building specialist that will assist with this aspect. And luckily, Lowes is providing me with a set of study drawings since not one of these homes has been sold around here. It seems a funny prospect to them, so we'll keep the humor going.
I know there's a lot I'm leaving out, but I think I've thought about most contingencies, including cost-overruns. A goal is to secure construction financing by winter, get the foundation and dry-in completed by spring, and go from there. I'm pretty efficient, coming from a 1931 cottage (850 square feet) with no a/c, and where I charted all of my electricity consumption. It was a great little house with no insulation. I can deal without a/c and like ventilation, but I also like warmth in winter. My guests (I have a lot of parties) like heat as well. Geothermal (even 3 tons) seems like overkill in this application. I deal with solar in my job, so I'm comfortable with that aspect. Still doing research on thermal applications and the use of wood flooring with radiant. Various other details are being sorted out, ie ventilating a black roofed-attic, and putting a basement under a home designed as shelter for hurricane victims. Nonetheless, I'm ready to listen to gather opinions from here. I've been lurking for a few months so now I'm jumping in. I look forward to your responses.
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Alton
Registered Users
Posts:314
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| 08/31/2008 9:38 PM |
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Emilito,
I think marble is too soft and porous to be used as a kitchen countertop. Do you have a particular application in mind for using marble as a kitchen counter top. Granite is normally used instead of marble, and yet it requires periodic maintenance such as waxing. |
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Alton C. Keown
Residential Designer and Construction Technology Consultant
Auburn, Alabama
334 329-0957 AT&T Cellular |
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robinnc
Registered Users
Posts:115
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| 08/31/2008 11:30 PM |
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Emilito....I agree about the granite. Since you have some exp. with concrete, why not build your own concrete counter tops? The materials are very cheap......just add labor.
Love ceiling fans but have you thought about whole house fan also?
I think you have an excellent start on building your house!
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ReadyToRetire
Registered Users
Posts:195
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| 09/01/2008 7:39 AM |
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Emilito,
That plan has about as small and simple a roof as you can get -- have you considered using SIPs for the roof also? That would obviate one of your stated concerns.
I'm interpreting the master suite as an option to add on because it's not shown in the side view. If you add the master suite, I'd consider flipping the closet and bath to bring the plumbing to the same area as used for the kitchen and second floor bath. That would also let it be the 1st floor bathroom without having to go through the BR.
Again, with the master suite, I'd consider extending the kitchen wall down to about where the closet-bathroom wall is now and adding a mud room - laundry room; , you have the plumbing right there. Or you could add it to the kitchen. Either way, and you'd add a lot of utility for an extra 6' of exterior wall.
The kitchen has no windows, so there's no advantage to putting the sink (and its plumbing) on the outside wall. I'd flip the stove and sink -- that would also give you a direct outlet for the vent hood over the stove. I'd also consider sliding the sink about 1/3 of the way towards the opposite end from the stove to give a bit larger food preparation area opposite the stove. Storage will be at a premium -- I'd spec only drawers below the counter top to make more efficient use of what volume you do have. I'd consider either eliminating the wall between the kitchen and DR or widening the pass through -- that looks a tad tight.
I cannot read the labels in the 2nd floor bath. If the small open front area by the door is a shower, I'd consider deleting it and moving the toilet there. There is a void behind the tub. Open it as a 2nd, small closet for BR2.
I'd play with the landing on the 2nd floor. You might have room to put in a diagonal wall from a bit to the left of the hinge point for BR1's door to the open side of BR2's door. Then put both BR doors into that wall. That would add interest and let you expand the BR1 closet by a foot to 18" because the angle would still let you move furniture in and out.
Heat is nice, but A/C in the DC area adds value also. Eventually either you or your estate will need to sell the house. When you do, the lack of A/C might create a problem. If you don't want to add it in the original construction, consider designing it in, creating the areas where you could add ducts and an air handler in the basement, and post the design where you or a buyer will find/see it. That would make changing your mind a whole lot easier.
Good luck,
Larry
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emilito
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 09/02/2008 2:45 PM |
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Thanks for the responses thus far. I'll be responding to the last comment in further detail later.
Now, regarding the marble/granite/concrete issue, my order of preference is white marble (Carrara is nice), oak, then black paperstone or some other black material. Granite is an option only if the price is right, and I'm not too keen on concrete counters. However, I haven't seen any that I really enjoy so I'm open. I was sold on marble after realizing a. it develops an interesting patina from use, b. it doesn't seem to be as fragile as many people think, c. I'm meticulous with cleaning up while cooking, so no stains would have to set (if I'm around). ApartmentTherapy had a post on the topic that proved helpful. the local building demolition warehouse has a few large pieces of marble that might work for the amount of counter area I'm considering.
What I think might help is if I posted up some of examples of the homes' proposed aesthetic. Here's one of my kitchen inspirations...lean and mean and lots more (some with marble counters and shelves) [via Remodelista].
Also, I don't know much about whole house fans but now I'm rethinking the whole a/c conundrum. Maybe ducts could in at construction to service a whole house fan (ceiling-mounted intake vents?), as well as the floor vents?
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emilito
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 09/02/2008 3:43 PM |
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Larry, I left out the part about SIPs as roofing. That is the goal...exterior walls and roof with SIPs, 2x4 studs framing interior walls.
The master is an optional add-on. I'd considered flipping the closet
and bath as well, but like having the tub with a south-facing window. However, your point about practicality is well taken.
>Again, with the
master suite, I'd consider extending the kitchen wall down to about
where the closet-bathroom wall is now and >adding a mud room - laundry
room; , you have the plumbing right there. Or you could add it to the kitchen. Either way, and >you'd add a lot of utility for an extra 6' of exterior wall.
The idea of a mud room is one I've looked at, but then that's getting into something with a larger size and I might as well look for other stock plans. You're right though, adding 6' isn't a huge deal. Regardless, these are the reasons for considering a basement as it allows for a lot more utility.
>The kitchen has no
windows, so there's no advantage to putting the sink (and its plumbing)
on the outside wall. I'd flip the >stove and sink -- that would also
give you a direct outlet for the vent hood over the stove. I'd also
consider sliding the sink >about 1/3 of the way towards the opposite end
from the stove to give a bit larger food preparation area opposite the
stove.
In the quick rendering attached, I've proposed moving the sink to the rear wall, with a largish window looking into the backyard (all south facing). This allows upper cabinets in the corners. There is no wall between the kitchen, living room and dining room, just a barheight partition with stools. Don't mind the door in the dining room; that may turn into a window (though it would be looking out onto the screened patio and thus have limited views and utility).
>I cannot read the labels
in the 2nd floor bath. If the small open front area by the door is a
shower, I'd consider deleting it and >moving the toilet there. There is
a void behind the tub. Open it as a 2nd, small closet for BR2.
I believe that area is the washer/dryer combo, in which case it would be moved to the basement and the sink could be moved to that space. In such an instance, the void could be widened to serve as a closet, as you said. A window might work on over the tub; got to find some way to get more light into the bathroom. I'm looking at BR2 as an office because it will still be receiving sun in the evening. BR 1 will be a guestroom/child's room.
Great observation about the diagonal wall. Over the weekend I was thinking about the landing, in fact the entire stairwell and how much effort it would take to move the entire thing. Nonetheless, I'm also considering a window at the landing, but I'm not quite sure if the roof pitch of the master suite would allow for one. Maybe a small operable casement (4 muntins) would work in that area.
Also, I've been looking at polygal and other transparent materials in lieu of certain inerior wall sections to allow more light penetration from the outside walls.
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robinnc
Registered Users
Posts:115
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| 09/02/2008 8:00 PM |
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I didn't see a haft bath anywhere. Would guests have to walk thru the Mbed to use the restroom?
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ReadyToRetire
Registered Users
Posts:195
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| 09/03/2008 6:28 AM |
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Emilito,
Looking at the plan again, I'd change several comments:
Adding the mud-room/laundry-room would not take any additional exterior walls, you'd just move them and their foundation; but it would take extra roof and floor and basement floor. But it still strikes me as the cheapest space you could find.
If you extended the master suite structure to the full width (less the set back for looks), you'd have a fairly simple shape. But none of it addresses the most significant limtations: The kitchen and dining areas are cramped for a family or party. I'd consider expanding the structure to a multiple of 4', which would make the long axis 28' rather than 26'. The 2 extra feet would offer significant flexibility. You could then slide the kitchen back intact. With the stove and sink swapped, the plumbing is in the same spot as the master bath if the bath and closet are flipped. It would leave a small mud/laundry/pantry room in the rear. Then add an kid's space along the front wall with desks or tables for home work and crafts where they're in sight of the adults in either the kitchen or LR. Lastly, balance the front view by going to the next wider door and windows.
On the 2nd floor, if you cannot make the angled landing work for both BR1 and BR2, do it just for BR1: Get rid of the stub wall on the lock side of BR1's door. Expand the closet so that its right hand wall becomes the landing's wall. Place the door between the closet and the corner of BR2.
If you can budget it, consider getting a two or three hour consult with an archetect who works with small residences. Take a several copies of the clean print out to sketch on along with ones on which you've sketched out changes that you're considering. It might be a good investment.
You're at the fun stage.
Lot's of luck.
Larry
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emilito
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 09/03/2008 5:25 PM |
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Posted By robinnc on 09/02/2008 8:00 PM
I didn't see a haft bath anywhere. Would guests have to walk thru the Mbed to use the restroom?
That's also a concern of mine. Ideally there would be a half-bath under the stairs, in place of the closet in this version of the home: http://www.southmainco.com/proppdf/SM_SalesSheet_KatrinaArev.pdf
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emilito
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 09/03/2008 5:48 PM |
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Posted By ReadyToRetire on 09/03/2008 6:28 AM
Emilito,
Looking at the plan again, I'd change several comments...
If you can budget it, consider getting a two or three hour consult with an archetect who works with small residences. Take a several copies of the clean print out to sketch on along with ones on which you've sketched out changes that you're considering. It might be a good investment.
You're at the fun stage.
I'm going to take these comments into account. I also would appreciate if folks checked out the additional resources linked below.
There are 2 versions of the floorplan in Colorado, one of which is completed and visible in images 37 & 38 in this slideshow. It appears to be SIP construction, or maybe that's external foam insulation. Another is going up in the Catskills of New York. Seeing these things in person (or online for that matter) will really help me envision the spacing issues.
Last night, the mind started wandering, but I think I need to reduce my sketches to post up here before going into much detail on that. One consideration is to reverse the entire layout, as well as to widen the master as Larry suggested. Another is to add a second story to the master, with the bottom serving as an extension of the living room. This is only if the stairs are on the other side. Then it becomes a whole new house altogether. Regardless, without concrete pricing on that cost vs. the cost of adding a basement, I'd like to stick with the basement plan for now. It just seems even unfinished that's a better use of space that could be improved as time and funds permit.
I've got a couple of architects lined up, all of whom deal mainly with large projects but who live in cramped urban townhouses and have done rehabs on their own homes. Their aesthetics tend to match mine.
Does this mean the rest of the stages aren't fun?
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eric anderson
Registered Users
Posts:1
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| 09/04/2008 9:01 AM |
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I have spent the last couple years going through the same questions as you are now pondering with building a house.
My prioritys were
Dwelling designed for 1-2 people. ~ 1100 ft^2 living space basement same size
very energy efficient
Open design, minimal rooms and seperations
usable basement workshop
simple
buildable by myself and a helper
Pasive solar
daylighting
Active solar air and water heaters
efficient use of materials
Ultra simple plumbing, HVAC and electrical.
The first thing I would do is sit down and make a list of everything you think you need in a house. Do the same thing again with things you want. Prioritize them 1-5 with 5 being must have and 1 being not so important. Incoperate all the 5's into the design and work you way down to the 1 and 2's. When you run out of space and money stop. This is stuff you don't need anyway. ( I got to the 2's before I ran out of space and money).
Centralize the plumbing into one area. build in a chase to accomodate it and have the chase accessable from the back of a closet. that way when you need to fix something you don't need to tear out drywall.
Small does not mean boring it means efficient.
Try to design everything in the house to be multipurpose.
As far as construction goes,
My basement foundation is polysteel ICF and there is 2" of insuation under the slab.
The walls are 2X6 with 1" external Polyiso insualtion and celulose wet spray in the wall cavitys + airtight drywall aproach.
The roof is made from scissor trusses with an energy heel,
Ceilings have a 1" polyiso layer thenR50 celulose insulation.
Lastly if you are going for a pasive solar design chose your windows carefully. Most windows are opimised for blocking solar radiation not admiting it.
Good Luck,
Eric
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keithwins
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 09/12/2008 12:52 AM |
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Haven't had a chance to look at the plans. Two comments though:
First: the Dawn Solar approach is seriously flawed, IMO. I could go on ad nauseum about how it's really a "pool collector" mounted on a roof (an unglazed flat panel), and they perform miserably in cold weather, but the real proof is in the SRCC data: go to solar-rating.org and check out the ratings for Dawn, they are truly miserable. As soon as it gets cold, they simply drop to zero. And it's NOT inexpensive to add all that detailing to your roof. If you want to build roof-integrated solar thermal, more power to you (I could give you lots of ideas about how to do that), but I would encourage you to drop the Dawn Solar approach.
Also: don't get wedded to expensive finish touches (like marble counter tops) and especially, don't fall into the temptation to install them before they are due. The building project is stressful and demanding, and most people get very burned out, and try to feel better by trying to "jump ahead" when they are doing it themselves. It's typically a bad idea.
None of that is meant to be dissuasive. You are doing some good thinking about what you want and how to get/build it. Keep it up!
I am also in the DC area, you can call me if you want to talk a bit about this, I assist a lot of architects, builders, & homeowners on energy efficiency approaches.
Keith Winston
Earth Sun Energy Systems
301-980-6325
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