lisa6801
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Posts:54
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| 03/02/2009 2:38 PM |
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I am getting ready to build. I want to prewire for future solar when I can afford it. As far as I can figure out I need to run wires from roof to electrical service panel. That is all I know , not the size, or anything else. What considerations do I need as it may be years before I instal solar. Anybody got any answers for me. Also what about plumbing for hot water (future).
THX ahead Lisa |
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Alton
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Posts:662
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| 03/02/2009 2:44 PM |
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Lisa,
I recently reviewed a new home in Atlanta where they wanted to add solar later. They installed conduits without wires in them in the attic near the eaves for future use. |
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Alton C. Keown
Residential Designer and Construction Technology Consultant
Auburn, Alabama
E-mail: alton at auburn dot edu |
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Brock
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Posts:444
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| 03/03/2009 1:48 PM |
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| Yes go with conduits and just seal them for now. They come in handy for all sorts of things, data, speakers you name it. Often Grid tied will have the panels on the roof, with the inverter outside right next to the entrance panel, then add a disconnect to the utility meter and that’s it, nothing really "inside" the house. But some do run back to the main panel. |
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Green Bay, WI. - 4 ton horizontal, 16k gallon indoor pool, 1.8kw solar PV setup, 3400 sq ft |
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RichColorado
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Posts:26
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| 03/03/2009 3:27 PM |
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Same for Solar Hot Water: Run insulated pipe from utility room to roof and cap off. Easier still if you have accessible attic, just run to attic.
For PV we just ran 1.25" conduit from roof to panel. |
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Brock
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Posts:444
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| 03/04/2009 9:28 AM |
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| I put a 4 inch up, right next to the 3 inch radon pipe from under the slab vented out the roof as well as 3 other 1 inch lines that run from the basement to the attic. I did add a "fire bag" in the 4 inch line. It is some sort of fireproof material that is suppose to expand when heated and doesn't burn. I don't know if it was required by code, but I would rather have it in there and never need it :) |
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Green Bay, WI. - 4 ton horizontal, 16k gallon indoor pool, 1.8kw solar PV setup, 3400 sq ft |
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Brawler
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Posts:127
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| 03/05/2009 6:41 AM |
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| Brock, First thanks for all your posts. They are always thoughtful and informative. Is there anywhere i can check out pictures and details of your house? Youve done many of the things i want to do. Thanks michael |
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Brock
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Road Block
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Posts:66
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| 03/05/2009 12:51 PM |
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Brock,
I've been working on a whole house UPS for the same reasons you have, remote location and many power outages. You just made my life a lot eaiser.
Thanks
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TechGromit
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Posts:450
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| 03/11/2009 9:45 AM |
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Just remember to put a pull string in the pipe to make fishing the wires easier when running them. On my last house I had foam installation injected into the exterior walls, but I had the forsight to install a PVC pipe along the chimmey from the basement to the attic. It came in handy a few years later when I had to replace the 3 conductor Thermostat wire with a 4 conductor wire when adding Central Air.
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lisa6801
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Posts:54
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| 04/09/2009 7:42 AM |
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Alton,
can you advise me if I want to set up conduit for future solar with panels on the ground. I have plenty of land and with my 12:12 pitch roof I now rather use my land for the setup. Do I need to run any conduit inside at all if I want to just tie into the county meter outside? Suggestions to think about for where to run the cables from the panels to the house.
I only need conduit if I am running direct to a system inside like the water heater, right? Maybe put next to my circuit breaker box or have 2 conduits one for that the other positioned in the mechnical room.
I am banking on break thru within the next 5 years and just am trying to prepare myself for an option.
THX Lisa |
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Alton
Registered Users
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Posts:662
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| 04/10/2009 11:09 PM |
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Lisa,
I really can not advise you on the details for a home that I have never seen. Maybe someone else on this forum can or you can locate a person or company near you. It has been too many years since one of my projects used active solar. However, I do believe solar is making a comeback. I see more solar displays at trade shows and have met some very knowledgeable electrical engineers that can design almost any solar set up around. There is an engineer in the Atlanta market that has extensive experience and has been more than willing to share with the public. If someone in that area is looking for a person to configure, install and control an active solar installation, then contact Mr. Sands:
Budget Solar Solutions, Gregory Sands, Systems Engineer, 678-261-7854, greg@budgetsolarsolutions.com http://www.budgetsolarsolutions.com, http://www.budgetsolarsolutions.com/ Stockbridge, GA 30281. Solar air conditioning, solar thermal water heating, solar thermal space heating, solar electricity, and solar pool heating. |
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Alton C. Keown
Residential Designer and Construction Technology Consultant
Auburn, Alabama
E-mail: alton at auburn dot edu |
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Jesse Thompson
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Posts:60
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| 04/13/2009 10:34 AM |
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Here is the rough specification we've gotten from renewable installers to make it easy for clients to add renewables later:
Solar Electric:
2 reserved slots (for a 240V breaker) in the electrical main panel.
Reserve a location for an inverter next to the electric load center.
1/2" EMT conduit from main panel to inverter location.
If cold attic: 1/2" EMT conduit from inverter to attic.
If hot roof / cathedral ceiling: 1/2" EMT conduit from inverter through roof to sealed junction box.
If in doubt of wire capacity or for easier fishing, upsize to 3/4" EMT conduit.
Solar Hot Water:
One dedicated 15 Amp circuit run to a junction box near solar tank location
Dual coil solar tank installed with heating system with top coil plumbed to boiler like an indirect tank. Note, three details that are important in the plumbing are 1) a high quality mixing valve must be installed on the hot line from the tank, and 2) a heat trap of minimum 18 inches should be included on the tank outlet, and 3) potable expansion tank (if required) should be sized given a maximum tank temperature of 180 degrees.
A pair of ½ inch copper pipes (NOT PEX) from the tank location, through the attic, and onto the roof. (again these pipes can terminate either in the attic or on the roof depending on future access). Pipes should be well secured and have a minimum of ¾ inch wall insulation when in a conditioned space and 1” wall insulation when outside of the building envelope.
18/2 thermostat wire from basement to attic or roof. If it ends on the roof, it should terminate in a sealed junction box.
Buying the correct storage tank is most important, to not waste money later scrapping a barely used tank.
Anyone want to refine, add or subtract anything from this list? Pull string is a good one to add. |
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Jesse Thompson
Kaplan Thompson Architects
http://www.kaplanthompson.com/
Portland, ME
Beautiful, Sustainable, Attainable |
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Hoowood
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Posts:81
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| 04/28/2009 4:44 AM |
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| http://www.sma.de/en_US/no_cache/news-information/videos-animations/videos-animations-sunny-island.html |
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