I've got my first lift of ICF's in and poured. [12 ft] Next lift is 8 ft. I was going to set my joists and sub floor then work off that but am worried about water intrusion to the plywood and TJI's between then and when I'm able to put the roof on.
A friend suggested that since I'm going to deck all around the house that I do that now and work off that instead of putting in the floor system or at least a partial deck enough to set my braces to and work with.
My question is if I do that then I will be pulling mostly instead of pushing with the true wall system. Will this work?

Probably too late for your plans now but here's a thought. Guys over at JLC Online and John Bridge tile forums really tout Advantech flooring from Huber Engineering, LINK, for just that reason. It's priced between OSB and plywood, just a strong or stronger than plywood, stiffer than both, and guaranteed to withstand weather exposure up to 6 months with no edge swelling or layer separation.

Can be a little difficult to find in some locales. I'm using it for my house because of it's exposure resistance and it's stiffness. It's good enough for ceramic tile using 3/4" on joists 16" o.c.

Hi Bill, nice photo and I see blue sky - we've done alot of building over the years and even the wood frame multi-story projects run into the wet winter (snow, rain, ice)
situations. I would proceed with the next interior floor system, same day I glue and (screw/or nail) down the T&G subfloor, get your hands on a five gallon bucket of Thompson water-seal or similar product and with a roller give the entire deck a good coat. It is very important that you gap the all edges of your subfloor (good 1/8") to allow for any expansion. This will protect your wood deck from sucking up moisture. Once you get the roof on and dryed in any moisture in the floor joists will dry out.
This is one of the advantages of the Hambro concrete floor system- extreme weather conditions after it has been poured, proves to be most durable floor system we have ever used and installs very quickly.

By gapping ALL the edges 1/8 inch do you mean even the T&G edges?

I always gap the outside edges but wondered if needed with the styrofoam for expansion. Weyhauser has a composit board I was thinking of using as that is the TJI system I have.

Look at the pix with the 3 mud trucks lined up. I asked for 45 minute intervals they showed up pretty much altogether. I sent 2 of them back they sure were ticked off but I didn't want it that fast.

Additionally I told the pump co that I wanted a 3inch gooseneck they said no problem but sent a 5 inch instead. It worked out but messy.

43 yards 7 hours myself and 2 inexperianced to any building trade helpers.

YEEHAW!

Bill, very nice work!

As to bracing from the outside, this is often necessary when you want to pour wall and slab on the same day to save truck rolls. And remember, whether bracing is inside or outside, you always want to bias the wall before pour so that the brace needs to push. The idea is it is far easier to push concrete with brace, than to pull. If the earth is soft, screw a large 2x 'foot' to each foot to increase bearing surface-area, and weight them or make rebar hold-downs by bending.

As to the wood decking, man I hate to build with wood. But if you have to and are concerned about water (probably rightfully), consider covering the deck with 6 mil poly and tape it down. This will also protect the deck from dirt and concrete splatters. I wouldn't use silcone sealers like Thompsons, as it will impede bonding of the concrete deck to wood, which is part of its strength.

Oooo, I'll bet those mud trucks were pissed! They could have sat there for up to three hours with little effect on the cement. You did great man, but I would have had that boom truck call for a 3" before allowing a start.

I was madder than a wet hornet when the boom showed up without the 3" I requested but the mud was on it's way and the boom was 60 miles from home. He would have had to drive round trip to get it. I called the co. 4 times prior to make sure he would have it on board. Of course the operator said he didn't know anything about it.

I ordered 45 yards so when the 4th truck finished and there wasn't another one waiting with the remainder I went off on the poor driver to get me the rest ASAP as my beam and column was last to pour and I wanted it all to cure together.
My hillbilly helpers said they had never heard such langauge before!

The vibrator I rented didn't run so I had the hilly billys beating the sides while I rattled the rebar with a reciprocationg saw from atop. Had the truck wet me down some for better flow and all in all I'm thinking everything went well considering.

Next pour is less 74 ft of wall and only 8' high instead of 180 ft of 12' wall so It's all down hill from there.

I'm real happy with using the ICF's very easy to use.

Bill,

It is not uncommon to brace from the outside. Then what you can do is attach your ledger and rest your channel on the ledger. We have extension kits for our bracing to extend out the turn buckles so we can do 20’ plus walls. Just out of curiosity, shouldn’t your product rep be helping you with such things.

ICF Contractor

My salesman doesn't have a clue. He actually has been bringing other prospective buyers to my site so they can talk to me Mr I never did this before. Cracks me up. I'm the area Pro. Nobody in the area has ever seen this before.
I've got some help from the manufactor but very limited.

Bill

Regardless of inside or out remember to leave the brace stiff back slightly loose to allow the forms to settle. The screw is at the top of the slot. Plum the wall before you start and you should have very little adjusting to do after.

The best thing I have found is a pump with an elephant trunk, they have ones that reduce in the hose it self rather than using a goose neck.

I could not agree more on the truck timing issue I also will reject a truck if it gets there to early, or the slump is to high.

I vote on framing the floor. Seal it with a deck water proofer and have a nice SAFE platform to build off of. Looking good btw.

Just a question for R.B.  Are the small square cutouts in the forms about 10' up for your deck joists or did you use them to pour the mud thru to minimize the drop?  Or both?   Dave

Raider, spend the extra money for adventech if its available, it's worth the extra money. I'm with Pete trying to do this from the exterior will not be worth the grief. I was a builder for 15 years before ICF and we filled our long seams in our floors with latex caulk, and shim smeared the short seams. Immediately after the first rain drill 1/2 holes in the deck where any water puddles to drain.

Dave

I agree with using Advantech sheathing, handles long-term exposure to rain and elements without being affaected. The LP version has drainage holes built into the T&G area so water doesn't pond. To me the products work the same!

And also the elephant trunk, ConForms Reducer Hose, works better for me than the gooseneck or the loop which some companies have.
I have one of the ConForms Hoses available if anyone is interested, along with more equipment!

Jim send me a Email on the Conform and other equiupment.

Dave

The cutouts are for the deck to be installed later as I decided to go ahead and put the floor in first and work off it.
Rim bards ans ledgers are installed inside for floor as is the front deck ledger which I used to pull and keep my front beam straight for the pour.

And there you have it!

Living space walls are stacked and poured! 17 yards, 2.5 hours with line pump.

Floor system is Ilevel gold. I sealed it with some glidden elcheapo deck sealer twice. Drilled holes in the low spots and stuck a short piece or tie wire for wick.

Next trip will be the roof truss system. Going to attach a 6x12 completely around the top as a header then build up from that. Was thinking of insetting it to the outside edge of the concrete so I'd gain revel inside.

Building this baby as I go. Next decision is how to do my trusses.

Very nice job on the floor Bill ! How are you heating the upper level ?

Holy span batman!! Looks like ya got some pretty wide openings!

Bunt

Upper level will be mostly wood stove with some kind of backup all depending on price. Lower I dunno..... each level is 1820 sqft.

Those spans are big enough to have a french door in the middle and a patio door on both sides with room for 2 heavy timber posts. I have a beautiful view out the front of Starr Mtn and deep woods out the back full of turkey and deer. Don't want to miss either. Should have nice air flow and natural light.

6x12 all the way around the top redheaded or epoxyed into top. Will span both front and back opening with single timber supported in middle twice in between doors.

Smaller spans in both front corners are 6' sliders. both are bedrooms.

Deck all the way around.

Raider Bill,

I live in Athens and have several friends that live in Tellico. We are going to build a home next year in Charleston near the Hiawassee River. Is ther anyway my wife and I can see your house and ask you some questions about the pros and cons of your project?

Please write me at [email protected] then I can get you our phone number and hopefully we can do this.

Thanks,

Marc and Kemella Allyn