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CFL-ICF Registered Users
Posts:55

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| 02/11/2008 3:30 PM |
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Posted By WolfCandy3x on 02/07/2008 1:16 PM Todd,
I would love to see that picture... I've always wondered what a ICF house looks after a fire. Are the walls really salvagable... etc etc
http://www.nicholas-parker.com/pictures/fire.jpg
this is the link to that picture. didnt see how to post pictures in thread. |
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Todd6286 Registered Users
Posts:39

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| 02/11/2008 3:39 PM |
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Yes - that is the picture I had seen. Thanks for finding it.
- Todd |
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WolfCandy3x Registered Users
Posts:56

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| 02/11/2008 4:05 PM |
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Thanks guy's
That's all fine and dandy, but thge picture itself doesn't add up... True the picture is small but from I can see the entire house was spared and that doesn't make sense. The Foam shell looks untouched and from the proximity of the other fires should have at least damage the roof.
Francis |
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teslastones Registered Users
Posts:34

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| 02/11/2008 4:37 PM |
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Hate to burst your bubble but the AAC crowd uses this same photo to promote their stuff.
Even if it was AAC the picture does not tell the whole story. |
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Todd6286 Registered Users
Posts:39

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| 02/11/2008 4:54 PM |
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"should have at least damage the roof."
Maybe the roof is metal. That's what i'd do if I lived in California.
What part of the story does the picture not tell?
"The Foam shell looks untouched "
So what if the foam melts - at least you still have a house. Look at the neighbors house!! It looks like ground zero.
Come on guys - this is like the best reason to have an ICF house. So you save like 15% on energy costs - that pales in comparison to being alive.
Todd |
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Quantum Registered Users
Posts:262

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| 02/11/2008 5:02 PM |
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You might like these then Todd...
The CA house has cementitious tile roofing (Mediterranian) and cementitious stucco cladding.
Disaster-resistance is the reason I only build noncombustibly. Trees belong in the forest ; biospheres take hundreds of years to develop. {lights incense...} |
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TahoeSkier Registered Users
Posts:4

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| 02/17/2008 11:15 PM |
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Hi folks, just wanted to chime in on the fire resistance of ICF. I bet it works great. But so does cedar lap siding. So that is no reason to pay extra for ICF. Ignition resistance has more to do with resistance to burning ember intrusion, so think about attic vents, gaps around garages, TEMPERED GLASS!!!!, any opening that powder snow can blow through. Then look at defensible space. Can a surface fire burn right up to your home. The new California building code is great, it does not require ICF, it does require ignition resistant and ember resistant contruction. If you have a wood shake roof, then dont worry about defensible space, your house is going to burn.
Big trees dont burn down houses, burning houses are really tough on trees though. Look at the house and the ground if you are worried about fire safety. Get the ladder fuels out and rake.
So, that being said, I am thinking about building an ICF home at Lake Tahoe and we are building on a lot that was leveled during the Angora Fire. I have a perfect south face and I am definitely going to go passive thermal. The few remaining trees will die this summer, so there is no shade on the house. This thread is leading me to believe that I may be just as well off going 2x6 with spray foam insulation and large thermal mass in the floors in front of the glass on the south side of the house. I am definitely in a heating climate. |
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David hot Registered Users
Posts:22

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| 02/18/2008 11:57 AM |
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Posted By grzelakc on 01/25/2008 1:07 AM Sorry to have abandoned the thread for a while, but here it goes. The styrofoam in the attic is sealed between sheets with caulk and spray foam for any gaps bigger than 1/8". I can trace no infiltration through the ceiling or electrical fixture boxes. The ceiling is warm to the touch which I think is a sign that it is well insulated. The basement is indeed unheated (or heated very little) and there is no insulation in the main level floor. That said, many of my friends with newer 2 by 6 homes use the same energy while heating both the basement AND the main level. I'm horrified to even try and start heating the basement as my bill will likely go up at least 50-70% as a result. And that would be scary and truly nothing to brag about especially given that I paid a premium for ICF walls.
There are things I've done to the house since I last posted. I added a damper to the exhaust fan in the kitchen, I removed trim pieces sprayed some extra foam in some windows but I don't think this stuff is going to make that much difference. If it improves my efficiency another 10% that will be remarkable. My bet is that it wont even be that.
To be honest I have no idea what went wrong. Admittedly, my windows are mediocre (Robert) but they ARE low-e and Argon filled so I'd expect at least half decent thermal performance there. Maybe I'm wrong.
Overall however, I still think the importance of thick insulation and tight envelope is way overstated. For the money I spent on all those insulation extras (attic styrofoam, basement slab styrofoam, ICF walls etc) I could have purchased a geothermal heat pump which would have likely delivered much better results.
PS. I will do a thermal image and a blow test but I'm not sure who I have to talk to around here. Our phone book doesn't even have a "energy audit" section so I have no idea whom I should call. I'm in the greater Saint John area in New Brunswick.
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David hot Registered Users
Posts:22

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| 02/18/2008 11:59 AM |
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Check the heat recovery ventilator . If it is pressurizing the house it pumps heated air out every crack. Mine also froze solid the first winter and had to be changed to a more frequent defrost cycle. At best they are about 75% efficient so limit the use. My Venmar on "minimum" runs slow speed steady & kicks up to full speed on hi humidity or Max . I shut the damn thing off most of the winter!
Will try & fix the messed up post above |
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southwind Registered Users
Posts:7

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| 02/18/2008 4:36 PM |
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Where to start? I am not in the ICF business but have built and been involved in the construction of well over a thousand ICF structures of both commercial and residential for over the past decade.
What has been stated about ICF's being hype and a fad is just plane nonsense.
The R50 claims have been taken out of context and misused. I can make a statement right now saying it would take take an R200 stick frame wall to compare to an icf wall and be factually correct. Again, you must know the context.
Resistance values (R rating)are 100% meaningless and hold no value to making a building energy efficient! They are completely useless and should be thrown out of use.
Grzeakc, you have other problems you need to find. Probably need to start with a blower test. You may want to consult with Richard Rue of Energy wise structures I am confident he can help you. He is a proponent of building energy efficiently no matter the method. www.energywisestructures.com
FIRE. I have seen and studied first had the effects of fire on a ICF structure just outside of Andover Kansas approximately three years ago on a 7200 sf residence.
New years party at rural 7200sf residence constructed of ICF. Main structure was combination of a ground floor building with basement in addition to partial slab on grade in bedroom areas. At the other end of the house was a stick constructed four car garage unit all connected.
A cigarette found it's way into a trash can in the garage where the fire started it then spread up into the roof truss system and made it's way to the main structure.(there was a double-walled drywall firebreak in the roof between the garage and main structure) The foam began to melt and roof finally gave in and fell on the wood floor system which then burned and collapsed. The fire was extinguished before it made it to the bedroom areas.
The fire response was terrible because of two other fires that night in the rural area. After investigation the fire department concluded the damage would have been a total loss had it been traditional wood frame construction.
Structural engineers investigated the concrete walls and integrity was sound to rebuild on. The fix included steel studs fastened to concrete and polyurethane foam filled between. The exterior was not damaged and the bedroom areas only received smoke and water damage. An ICF firewall replaced the double walled drywall firewall at the area the garage roof met the living quarters.
The insurance provider and owners could not have been happier.
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PanelCrafters Registered Users
Posts:1323


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| 02/18/2008 7:33 PM |
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Posted By southwind on 02/18/2008 4:36 PM The R50 claims have been taken out of context and misused. I can make a statement right now saying it would take take an R200 stick frame wall to compare to an icf wall and be factually correct. Again, you must know the context.
Resistance values (R rating)are 100% meaningless and hold no value to making a building energy efficient! They are completely useless and should be thrown out of use. Wow! |
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....jc If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building? |
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southwind Registered Users
Posts:7

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| 02/19/2008 12:25 AM |
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R-Value is a term given to the property of any material to "resist" the conduction of heat. R-Value as a property is legitimate. The functional design of the laboratory determination of this property, relative to commercial insulation materials, is flawed at a fundamental level - yielding what can be called the R-Value myth. This flaw forces the engineering community, bound to adhere to the scientific formulas dictated by their governing body (ASHRAE), to calculate heat loads using the "myth" that this R-Value property of various insulation materials derived by flawed test methods can accurately predict the performance of the insulation material in real life. Not true.
Let's look at two of the "test criteria" used in the laboratories to determine R-value. The first criteria relates to "standard temperature". This stipulates that the test be conducted at a constant temperature of 75-degrees fahrenheit. Does it seem odd that a test to determine the performance values for insulation material for HVAC equipment would be designed around a 75-degree temperature? Who uses heat or cooling when it's 75 degrees? It is odd that fiberglass tests out best at this temperature and decreases in efficiency at hotter and cooler temperatures while cellulose and foam both improve at hotter and cooler temperatures.
Secondly, the "test criteria" requires that R-value testing not start until the materials reach "steady state". Steady state occurs when a material is exposed to a heat source on one side and allowed to become thermally saturated so that for every single unit of heat entering on one side of the material a single unit of heat exits the opposite side. This seems very scientific. It appears logical, but it misses a single important issue relevant to predicting real world performance. Namely, how long does it take to reach steady state? Why is that important? Because fiberglass reaches steady-state within a few hours, cellulose takes about a day and EPS foam takes about a couple of days to get to steady state. Cellulose and foam do not experience steady-state conditions in the real world. |
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Annabelle Registered Users
Posts:3

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| 03/12/2008 12:29 AM |
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| Wow I'm really confused if ICF or SIPS panels are worth it against the cost factor os conventional 2 X 6 construction with careful insulation practices. Is the cost of ICF really worth the savings? |
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Annabelle Registered Users
Posts:3

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| 03/12/2008 12:31 AM |
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| Also how many of you in this thread conversation live in a ICF home or SIPS constructed house? What type of heat is installed in it? What are your electric bills monthly and list the area you live in. That would be better info for all of us. |
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WolfCandy3x Registered Users
Posts:56

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| 03/12/2008 1:09 AM |
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Hi Annabelle,
My house is 53x30 3 stories all 6" ICF:
13-15 inch cellulose in the attic All large PVC windows with Low-E All Electric heaters: 4 large basement, Convectair + 4 large x 1st, 8 various size 2nd 2 40 Gallon tank 2 complete set of appliance: Fridge/stove/washer-dryer/Freezer/dishwasher ( My house is Bi-Generation ) 5 computers running 24/7 4 large Tv Running -+ 5hrs a day Garage Heated to 15c all winter / House Heated to 20c except half the basement that is heated at 25c for the parrots 3 Adult and 2 Teens = 7-10 showers a day Interior light 50/50 between halogen 75w / 15w CFL Exterior light running 5 hours a day (6 x 100w ) Pool in summer
3048$ last year for all above mentionned.
40.64 ¢/ per day Hydro Base 4,29 ¢/kWh first 30kw per day 7,03 ¢/kWh for the rest per day and I live in Quebec.
Francis
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Mark Fleming Registered Users
Posts:188

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| 03/13/2008 1:40 PM |
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If the picture of the house standing in the burned neighborhood is the one I think it is, the owner planted icicle plant around it and had attic vents that could be closed, which he closed when they were forced to evacuate. Combine that with his stucco finish (including his roof soffits!!) and a concrete roof. I'm not sure how much the ICF construction mattered, as the exterior finish probably would have saved a stick frame house. The owner was clearly thinking of fire danger when building and landscaping. ICF is part of building a home as a castle, but this fire may not have even challenged the ICF. He may have to wait for a hurricane to test that.
As an alternative to an infrared camera, I've found that the little "point-and-shoot" infrared thermometers are very useful. Point it at the wall and it might read 68 degrees. Point it at a window and it reads 62 degrees. Point it at another window, and it reads 54 degrees. Without knowing or caring the e value, you know you have a problem with one window, maybe both windows, depending on your outside temp.
Point it at the floor and at the ceiling. Is there stagnant hot air that could be moved around and help? Point it at the ductwork by the furnace and then at the furthest room vent. How much temp is lost and where? Point it around roof penetrations. Point it at that attic door in the garage. Point it at various places on your basement slab. Point it at the incoming air from your ERV and tell immediately if it's working and its efficiency. Run it across the wall/ceiling and see if any studs telegraph the cold through. Check to see if there is infiltration around the crownmolding because the wall/ceiling behind it isn't properly finished. Check around the windows on the windward side of the house compared to the lee side. The possibilities are endless.
The IR camera is nice and gives you the full picture (if you point it in the right direction at the right time), but you can learn a lot with your own $50 thermometer that's always on site.
Mark Fleming
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Harvey Registered Users
Posts:2

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| 03/24/2008 8:42 AM |
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| You can find a picture of California wild fires at [URL=http://ontario-home-builder.com/Concrete_Homes.html]Concrete Homes[/URL]. Sorry I do not have the original as I scanned it from ICF brochure. |
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CFL-ICF Registered Users
Posts:55

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| 03/24/2008 4:52 PM |
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i think this whole thread to be bunk from the begining. not to say the other posts have not giving good info. but the original poster based all his findings on basicaly the first months bill. it really takes awhile for all that cement to cure up. besides them leaving alot of the rooms not even having heat in them. the secondmonths power bill will drop from the first. then the third month after you have settled in you got everything right the cement has cured. thats when all of a suden big drops.they stay down from there. if you notice they havent been back inawhile. :)
a similar result happens in all most all builds we do. first couple weeks the main is on you have people still coming in doing punchs out ect. and the cement takes more than 28 days to really get cured up. so thats is why i say this whole thread is bunk.
with all things being equal. old house to new. changing the walls only to icf. they would have seen a min. 30% better heating and cooling. those in icf for awhile know this and have seen and expierenced it.
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ICF Curious Registered Users
Posts:16

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| 03/25/2008 9:33 AM |
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Posted By CFL-ICF on 03/24/2008 4:52 PM i think this whole thread to be bunk from the begining..................it really takes awhile for all that cement to cure up......... then the third month after you have settled in you got everything right the cement has cured.
a similar result happens in all most all builds we do. first couple weeks the main is on you have people still coming in doing punchs out ect. and the cement takes more than 28 days to really get cured up.
I am finding this to be an interesting site......so much to understand.
Can you explain the relationship between the cure state of the concrete and the insulation value?
Isn't the concrete providing strength to the structure with the styrofoam form being the insulation?
ICF Curious |
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CFL-ICF Registered Users
Posts:55

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| 03/25/2008 10:04 AM |
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well no i cant explain it. im not a thermal dynamics engineer. may not have anything to do with the cement curing. when i posted i wasnt thinking. you dont move in right after the poor. LOL still gota put in the door,windows,roof ect.
but either way you cant base your findings and start screaming about the electric bill till you have several months to evaluate. you have to get the entire envelope conditioned. wich only takes about 2 weeks. not only do you have to get the humidity under control. but get the walls heated up or cooled down in a hot enviroment.
either way this poster either did something horribly wrong or just needs to get everything checked and settle into the home. sounds like they put alot of work into it and was just confused with the first month or two of heating cost.
the things they may have done wrong or skimped on. have been more than covered.
now to answer your question. yes the cement provides strength. that is not its only purpose though. air and vapor barrier is another. also gives the wall thermal mass. the foam insulates yes. wich also provides some level of air and vapor barrier aswell. but its the combination of the properties of the foam along with the properties of the cement that makes it work. |
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