BuildBlock Building Systems LLC
 
 Register  Login   
 
Get FREE Quote and Information
Site Sponsors

For Advertising Info,
Call 866-316-5300 or 312-223-1600

Welcome to GreenBuildingTalk - the place to share, ask and learn about green building products and methods. While you can browse the site as a guest, you need to register in order to post. Registration is fast, simple and free so join our community today.
Find a Green Building Pro 
Browse Project Albums 
View Product Guide 
Unanswered Active Topics
Forums Search Members

You are not authorized to post a reply.   
Prev Next
Page 5 of 5 << < 12345
Author Messages
andruzzoUser is Offline
Registered Users

Posts:2




04/17/2008 2:45 AM  
For the thermal mass component of ICFs, read the extensive testing done by the Canadian NRC.
Mark FlemingUser is Offline
Registered Users

Posts:188




04/17/2008 12:13 PM  
I can't find any testing by the NRC relating to the thermal mass components of ICFs.

As to the long term curing of concrete, last year I constructed a two car garage with living area over. It's bermed into a hill with a 10' high bermed back wall and 10' high slighty bermed side walls. Lots of concrete. I struck a spring when digging in, so I was worried about moisture. The first year was scary. I had strange condensation issues. One time, there was a puddle on the floor. I thought that all of my waterproofing efforts had failed (Certainteed Form-a--Drain footing, additional footer drain, Delta dimple fabric, 15 mill vapor barrier). Garage always felt cold and damp.

I'm now at the one year mark and what a difference. Winter temps in the unheated garage are 10 degrees higher based on my recording thermometer (now approaching ambient ground temperature at about 52 degrees). I saw my last condensation (only on a garage door window) three months ago.

The temperature fluctuation indicated on the recording thermometer shows the effects of thermal mass. Last summer, the highest temperatures were always just after midnight, when the "heat" of the day has worked its way into the structure. The bare concrete walls take several hours of direct sun. During some hot weather last summer, daytime temps were 68, rising to 72 between midnight and 2 am. This was during +90 day temps and 70 night temps.

Here's another picture of an ICF structure and fire damage. The ICF blocks are Rastra, a mixture of concrete and EPS that does not burn or melt. The building had not yet been sided. If it had been bare EPS blocks, they probably would have melted. If sided with wood, it probably would have burned. The tarp is covering Rastra blocks. The Rastra blocks should have been covering the tarp.

http://mmcmillen.com/rastra/pages/11fireDCP_1622_jpg.htm
http://mmcmillen.com/rastra/pages/13DCP_1624_jpg.htm
yampolskyUser is Offline
Registered Users

Posts:1




05/31/2008 9:59 AM  
I researched ICF manufacturers and decied to use Quad-Lock. I bought an older home (built in 1974) out of slump block. All the interior walls were exposed block. I added on 1700 sq.ft to the existing 2140 SqFt and did the addition using ICF manufactured by Quad-Lock. I read mostly positive reviews of the material and their technical help. I live in Tucson Arizona where it gets very hot (up to 115F) in the summer months (June, July, August). In my research, I determined it would be very benificial to use an open cell polyurethane spray foam for attic insulation. I found a product called Sealaction 500 to one of the better products. I put in between 8 to 10 inches sprayed up against the roof to reduce the heat penetration into the area where my A/C ducts are. To improve the performance of the old house, I insulated the walls with extruded polystyrene (2 inches) and replace all the doors and windows with double payne argon filled windows by Sierra Pacific. Their windows were not as pricey as Pella and the quality I felt was very similiar. I also foamed the roof on the old house with since it has a parapit and the roof surface is not visible from the street. That material is approx. R6 per inch. The thickness varies since I had to create the slope for water drainage. My winter heating bills which is made up of 1 gas furnace/10 year old carrier A/C unit and 1 electric A/C /heat pump (SEER 13 for addition) did not exceed $190. This will be my first summer and I am curious to see what my electric bill will be. The house seems thermostats in the winter did not vary much between 72 to 75F even on the very cold (35F) winter mornings. I have the thermostats set to 76F for the summer and will be tracking the monthly usage and cost. So far, I am impressed with how tight the addition is and I am hoping the improvments I made to the existing home keep my energy bills very low in the hot summer months.
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 5 of 5 << < 12345




ActiveForums 3.6

Professionals Serving
Your Location:

Creative Panels (Kingsburg, CA)
Amvic-Pacific (Nevada City, CA)
Sierra SIPs (San Andreas, CA)
Blue Lupin Developments (Incline Village, NV)
Greenblock Worldwide Corp (Cave Creek, AZ)
View More

GBT Project Albums:

magnolia remodel (seattle, WA)
Cottage (Rio Nido, CA)
Our new house (Burt, MI)
The RANCH (Williston, SC)
off grid SIP modern house kit (Charlotte County, VA)
More Info |  Search
Copyright 2008 by BuildCentral, Inc.   Terms Of Use  Privacy Statement