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Door Buck Over an ICF Stem Wall

Last Post 20 Feb 2008 09:23 AM by Cattail Bill. 6 Replies.

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Farmboy

Basic Member

Posts:356

25 Jan 2008 12:27 AM
Home will have a 5" slab on grade with a 2 ft subgrade ICF stem wall resting on the footing and continuing up full height. Will pour floating slab after walls are poured. Question is how to buck the bottom of the exterior doors to include a thermal break? Normally you have a slab to rest your door on. Here we'll be looking down at the ICF stem wall. One thought is to cut the foam 6 to 7 inches lower, place Edge Form flush with the exterior of the ICF and pour the interior slab to the Edge Form. Then get creative in finishing the threshold! The door hinge will be set flush to the interior of the ICF. The sides and top bucking are not as much of an issue as the threshold. I even thought of the 3.5" hose used as a thermal break under garage doors mentioned in a previous thread. Dave

Chris Johnson User is Offline

Advanced Member

Posts:878

25 Jan 2008 01:25 AM
Run the foam up on the exterior to the top of where the slab will be finished (Top of slab), keep the inside down 4" so as the slab stays thick enough to prevent breaking/crumbing being too thin. When ordering door order with the largest sill available (I have only ever seen 10", which will be short) What is left exposed will need finished, there are several products on the market that can be used that are tougher than nails that can handle foot traffic. Their finished thickness is between 3/8 and 1/2", which depending on your door sill should be lower. Let me finish going through my bag of goodies from the world of concrete and get a name for you. Speaking with a few door manufacturers about this issue before they claim the ICF market is not large enough to justify making a jamb kit to address this. Chris

Chris Johnson - Pro ICF<br>North of 49

Geoff

New Member

Posts:3

25 Jan 2008 11:03 AM
I've been helping our customers with this very problem. Check out the photo's attached and see if this will help. Because we are gal. steel we can be placed into the concrete and get a single thresshold solution. Geoff
Attachment: JAMB-it-ALL Thresshold setup.pdf Attachment: JAMB-it-ALL Thresshold poured.pdf

Farmboy

Basic Member

Posts:356

25 Jan 2008 12:40 PM
Thanks Chris and Geoff. Conceptually both ideas seem workable. The photos really helped. Add'l info: the concrete slab will be the finish floor (stamped, stained, etc.), so I think we'll neeed to recess the threshold about a 1/2" to 3/4" using a piece of OSB sized to the threshold footprint. Dave

Farmboy

Basic Member

Posts:356

19 Feb 2008 06:39 PM
From Chris Johnson. What is left exposed will need finished, there are several products on the market that can be used that are tougher than nails that can handle foot traffic. Their finished thickness is between 3/8 and 1/2", which depending on your door sill should be lower. Let me finish going through my bag of goodies from the world of concrete and get a name for you. Say Chris, any info on the products to finish the exterior of step from door sill. Do you or others feel this is best we can do to provide for thermal break at doorways? Thanks Dave

Chris Johnson User is Offline

Advanced Member

Posts:878

19 Feb 2008 10:30 PM
Dave, try Gigicrete, new product out of AZ, being used in schools and prisons, if it can take that abuse, it can take almost anything

Chris Johnson - Pro ICF<br>North of 49

Cattail Bill User is Offline

Basic Member

Posts:206

20 Feb 2008 09:23 AM
Dave using the hose will work well what you will lose is the ability to use a mechanical fastner for the threshold, placement is critical so that you maximize the effect of the hose. Locate the hose so it will line with the plane of the door, and inside concrete will be inside the door and outside concrete will be outside. Use a good quality construction adhesive on both sides of the hose to eliminate movement of the threshold from foot traffic. The issue of placement of the door for finishing, move the door out so that the largest threshold available will be slightly beyond the exterior wall and extension jamb the inside of the rest of the door. The interior concrete will be under the threshold so no need to extend that part.