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jbrown84
Registered Users
Posts:25
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| 04/27/2008 12:27 PM |
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I'm getting ready to install Andersen windows in a new house I'm building for myself. The house in located on the coast in Connecticut, and the site can be very windy. The first floor was done with 11" thick ICF, and we installed pressure treated wood against the concrete in the 6" opening, and then 2x12 KD Spruce all around the rough opening, so we'd have a good nailer. The windows will be flush to the outside.
The steps I was planning on using to install the windows is as follows:
1. Install 12" Vycor plus along sill. Run it 6" into the opening (the double hung windows are 4-1/2" wide), and 6" along the ICF. The Vycor will run up each of the side jambs 6" vertically.
2. Install a copper window pan in the rough opening.
3. Install the windows, with silicone caulk under the side and header window flanges. (no sill caulk)
4. Install 6" wide Vycor along side jambs. At the bottom, they are even with the bottom of the sill flashing that went in before the window, and at the top, they run 4" above the top of the head flange.
5. Install 6" wide Vycor across the header, running it 1"+ overlapping beyond the side jamb flashing.
Questions:
1. Should I also use Vycor flashing on the sides and header before I install the window? If yes, why?
2. Shold I use a primer to help the Vycor adhere to the foam?
Any advise is appreciated.
-Jeff
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Chris Johnson
Registered Users
Posts:341
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| 04/28/2008 1:55 AM |
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Jeff;
Install flashing on the sides before the window, not the header (do this after window install) Why...as per manufacturer specs.
No primer is needed, make sure the foam is clean, rasp if necessary |
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Chris Johnson - Pro ICF
Napa, CA
Come for the wine, Stay for the ICF work |
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jbrown84
Registered Users
Posts:25
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| 04/28/2008 7:42 AM |
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Chris,
Wouldn't the header be where water is most likely to enter? Could small amounts use the small ICF channels to get behind flashing? What is "rasp"?
Thanks for your input.
Jeff |
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tb1472000
Registered Users
Posts:13
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| 04/29/2008 10:43 AM |
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I think he meant to use flashing at the header, but do so after the window is installed. That will put the flashing over the flange at the top of the window. As long as the glue holds, water shouldn't get in.
What nails are you going to be using? Are the nails going to penetrate the copper flashing? If so, you probably need to use copper nails to avoid electrolysis between different metals.
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bobgieser
Registered Users
Posts:33
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| 04/29/2008 11:07 AM |
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Nudura trains to cut an angle groove in the icf foam in the header above the top of the window and insert a metal flashing that protrudes down to the top of the inndow. Then a regular window wrap, or we take some peal and stick bituthene(sp?) water proofing and vover that and the side nail flanges and bottom.
Bob Gieser |
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Bob Gieser
Sales and Technical Support
Holdfast Technologies
Master Distributor for Nudura ICFs
(916) 214-4398-cell |
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bobgieser
Registered Users
Posts:33
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| 04/29/2008 11:10 AM |
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| rasping the icf foam is the use of a tool called a rasp to shave the EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam for a clean fit. |
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Bob Gieser
Sales and Technical Support
Holdfast Technologies
Master Distributor for Nudura ICFs
(916) 214-4398-cell |
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ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Posts:81
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| 09/18/2008 8:39 PM |
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I have a similar question. I have a general contractor asking about the peel and stick on the lintel going over the top flange of the door or window. The house will get a fiber mesh and ICF coating. His concern is that if any water were to get behind the coating and run behind the peel and stick it would go behind the flange.
has anyone heard of another way to do it? Or problems? |
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ICFconstruction.net |
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