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aksmith42

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Posts:29

06/07/2008 5:34 PM
i'm going to do an 8 inch icf basement with a brickledge. i am planning on using a 4 inch icf block for the top course to form my brickledge. the only thing i am wondering about is the 2 beam pockets i am going to have to install. they will be 6" by 12" pockets and from what i've read the beam must have 4" to bear on. if that's the case the pocket will just be a hole in the top course. is this a problem? if so what would be my best solution?

Paul Stevens User is Offline

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Posts:143

06/07/2008 5:36 PM
cut out your beam pocket as big as you need it and then when you pour your second floor, vibrate well around your beams and they should fill in just fine!!

GRickard

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Posts:38

06/09/2008 11:41 AM
Keep in mind that when you set a 4" block on top of an 8" block, the 4" of brickledge you leave is actually 2" of concrete and 2" of foam. The bricklayer will leave about a 1" air space behind the brick, leaving the whole brick wall sitting on 1" of concrete. I would spend a little more money and get a brikledge form so you have a solid base tha is tied to the wall with rebar. Greg

Paul Stevens User is Offline

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Posts:143

06/09/2008 6:43 PM
You use a taper top block for your last 8" row which will give you plenty of room.

aksmith42

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Posts:29

06/09/2008 8:06 PM
paul, when you mean a tapered block do you mean the outside edge of the foam is beveled to about a 60 degree angle so the concrete is actually poured out to the edge of the form? also i'm going to do the basement with icf and the top floor with sips so i am still wondering about the beam pockets. thanks

aksmith42

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Posts:29

06/09/2008 8:09 PM
also what is the best way to do my waterproofing over the brick ledge

Paul Stevens User is Offline

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Posts:143

06/09/2008 9:01 PM
Yes I do, there will be about 1/2" of foam left, go to Nudura.com Logixicf.com or any other ICf website and check out their pictures to get a better idea on how they come. Once you have installed your beams you could just grab a couple of bags of quick mix from the local hardware store, mix yourself and fill the pockets in. If you are starting your finish brick right on top of the taper top then you need to have a minimum of 6-8" of finish parg exposed above grade. I usually bring my peel and stick waterproofing to finish backfill height then use Tuck Tape to stick the top of the peel and stick to the ICF (keeps it from peeling away due to expose to the sun and also won't let water run behind) then do a finish coat of B2000 Prep Coat which is an ICF parg mix. So you shouldn't have to waterproof over top. The brick layer should put his 12" poly on any way and tape it to your SIP panels. Now if you were using an extended brick ledge, and running brick ledge extensions on an angle to follow grade and wanted to hide the curve by doing a row of solid block then there is a way to waterproof.......but, that's another story...

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