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Dug
Registered Users
Posts:36
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| 10/06/2008 1:07 AM |
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My basement blocks are set and braces are on. I still need to straighten the walls and do the final bracing around bucks and corners. I went with 6 inch Logix and was very pleased with the process so far. however, the corners have me very concerned. I didn't properly plan my length and every row has cut blocks with as little as 3 inches between seams. My steel is tight and I zip tied every corner per the manual. I planned to brace the corners with 2x4s, but after looking at the project today, I am leaning toward full sheets of 3/4 inch plywood to brace the corners. Any suggestions?
Around the bucks, I plan to use foam adhessive and frame the wood bucks with 1x4s.
Also, while vibrating, what is the best method? I have read, remove at 3 seconds per foot, but this seems very slow.
Overall the project went very smooth and I have many thanks for the guys on here who have answered countless questions. One bit of advise that was missing, however, is the need for sunglasses. It's bright with all that white foam around ya... ; -) |
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Buntly
Registered Users
Posts:95
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| 10/06/2008 7:23 AM |
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I just poured a Logix Wall. 260' of wall with 14 corners and 10' 8" tall. Entire basement had a brickledge. First floor pour was similar,.... V-Buck was used for windows/doors. We zip tied all corners. A few corners had windows within 3' so I braced with corner brace. Poured both basement and first floor in 3 passes with 5 1/2" slump 4000 peastone mix. I always put a dab of enerfoam on the top row to keep in place, or you could tie. I am not sure what type of bracing you are using, but make sure you put all your screws to the top of the slots in the bracing to allow for compression. I had atleast 3/8" compression in some areas. Overall Logix is a good strong block. All corners held very well during the pour.
If you want pics,.........send me your email.
Good Luck
Bunt |
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TLC-ICF
Registered Users
Posts:27
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| 10/06/2008 9:06 PM |
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| With 6",as long as you do not cut or weaken the corners. You will be fine, pour about four feet from the corner and let it flow into the corner. |
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Paul Stevens
Registered Users
Posts:143
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| 10/06/2008 10:09 PM |
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Contact your distributor or local redi-mix company and ask for a name and number for the local ICf professional in the area. Offer a few hundred dollars cash for them to come to your job site and have a look. Then they will be able to give you first hand advice on what to strap/brace etc. Also ask if they are available to to assist on pour day. Nothing beats having an experienced pair of hands helping with the pour. We can all give advice site-unseen on what to do or not do but nothing beats having a pro on site!!!!
Paul Stevens |
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force5walls
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 10/07/2008 10:32 AM |
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If you have doubts about it holding up and staying square, the cost of plywood and the time to put it could save you ALOT of time of concrete cleanup and trying to finish some thing that is not square and straight. A little extra time and money up front could save you alot of time and money in the future. |
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Cattail Bill
Registered Users
Posts:246
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| 10/08/2008 10:05 AM |
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I disagree with the statement that you should pour into the corners! No Offense but we have found pouring directly into the corners and then pulling away works better, think of it this way when a tidal wave comes on shore the pressure of the water will push buildings off there foundation, as it receeds it pulls the debris away this works with concrete as well when it flows towards the wall it pushes as it flows away it will actually pull some of the pressure away. This works on T walls as well, I am not saying you should not brace the corners but just assist the bracing by reducing the pressure.
The screws at the top of the slot is correct but it will still not work if you tighten the screw leave it loose enough for the forms to settle. We test the ability for the wall to settle by lifting the stiff back up and down so it will move freely. |
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thagreen
Registered Users
Posts:18
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| 10/08/2008 11:46 AM |
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Bill your absolutely wright about the screws in the legs, taking in account the bloc compression is imp. for plumbed walls. However the 'start your pour IN the corner' is a big no no! When the concrete is flowing towards the corner it will end up on the other side, so the pressure is a lot less than a straight poor in the corner. Plus you can watch, as the corner is being filled, how it's reacting with the concrete pressure so if there is a problem you'll see it coming.
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Cattail Bill
Registered Users
Posts:246
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| 10/09/2008 9:25 AM |
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| Thagreen Pouring directly into the corner has worked very well for us with our product, we have never had a corner push since we started doing it this way. Please take the time to think about the tidal wave effect and common sense should take effect, try this method once and you will probably never go back to sending the tidal wave at the corner. |
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thagreen
Registered Users
Posts:18
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| 10/09/2008 3:43 PM |
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If it works good for you and has worked with no problem in the past, keep doing it. Maybe I should ad that we only have interior bracing. Less work, without cutting corners, to be done is always welcome in my end. That being said everybody has their tricks and experiences under their belt. So as they say if it ain't broke don't fix. Keep up the good work !!
Cheers. |
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Chris Johnson
Registered Users
Posts:341
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| 10/09/2008 7:55 PM |
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I'm with Bill, I pour directly into the corner as well, no problems or issues. I also use the first truck to fill the bottoms of my windows which I know a lot of guys prefer to just let it flow and top up as required. Everyone has there own methods and what they like. Keep doing what works for you.
By the way, it's been 5 days, how did the pour go Dug?
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Chris Johnson - Pro ICF
Napa, CA
Come for the wine, Stay for the ICF work |
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